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A 

JOURNAL, 

COMPRISING AN ACCOUNT OP THE LOSS OF THE 

BRIG COMMERCE, 

OF II ART FORD, CONN.; JAMES RILEY, MASTER : UPON THE WESTERN 

COAST OF AFRICA, AUGUST, 28TH, 1815 : 

ALSO, OF 

THE SLAVERY AND SUFFERINGS OF THE AUTHOR AND 
THE REST OF THE CREW, 

UPON THE 

DESERT OF ZAHARA, 

IN THE YEARS OF 1815, 1816, 1817; 
WITH ACCOUNTS OF THE 

MANNERS, CUSTOMS, AND HABITS 

OF THE 

WANDERING ARABS; 



A BRIEF HISTORICAL AND GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW OF THE CONTINENT OF 

AFRICA. 



BY ARCHIBALD ROBBINS. , 



HARTFORD: ^Q^wg, 
PUBLISHED BY SILAS ANDRUS & SON. 
1851. 




District of Connecticut , ss. 

BE it remembered, that on the thirteenth day ot 
(L. 3,) September in the forty-second year of the Inde- 
pendence of the United States of America, Ar- 
chibald Robbins, of the said district, hath deposited in this 
office the title of a book, the right whereof he claims as Authci 
and proprietor, in the words following', to wit : — " A Journal, 
comprising an account of the loss of the brig Commerce, of 
Hartford, (Conn.) James Riley, master, upon the western coast 
of Africa, August 28th, 1815 ; Also, of the slavery, and suffer- 
ings of the Author, and the rest of the crew, upon the desert ol 
Zahara, in the years 1815, 1818, and 1817 ; with accounts of 
the manners, customs, and habits of the wandering Arabs ; Al- 
so, a brief historical and geographical view of the continent of 
Africa. By ARCHIBALD ROBBINS." 

In conformity to the act of the Congress of the United States, 
entitled, " An act for the encouragement of learning, by secu- 
ring the copies of maps, charts, and books, to the Authors and 
Proprietors of such copies, during the times therein men- 
tioned." 

R. I. INGERSOLL, 
Clerk of the District of Connecticut. 

A true copy of record, examined and sealed by me, 

R. I. INGERSOLL, 
Clerk of the District of Connecticut 



TO THE PUBLIC. 



I SHALL make no apology for offering to the 
public the following Journal. It would be affec- 
tation to pretend that in doing it, I have been in- 
fluenced by motives wholly independent of per- 
sonal emolument. My object in preparing and 
publishing this concise and simple narrative of 
my own sufferings, experience and observations, 
among a people, and in a quarter of the globe 
little known to my countrymen, w r as twofold — to 
obtain, if possible, a small remuneration for the 
unprecedented privations and sufferings, of which 
I have been the unfortunate subject, and to add 
to the scanty knowledge that exists with respect 
to this singular people, and extraordinary por- 
tion of the earth, such facts and information as 
I was enabled to obtain, during nineteen months 
of the most cruel and oppressive slavery which 
barbarism, and a blind and ferocious superstition 
could produce. 

But although these were my principal objects, 
yet had they not been presented to my view, and 
strengthened by circumstances peculiarly favor- 
able, I should never have been persuaded to have 
engaged in so arduous, difficult and expensive an 
undertaking. The wreck of the brig Commerce, 
and the distressing fate of the crew, was known 
throughout the United States ; and in Connecti- 
cut, where most of them had lived, there was a 
lively and honorable sensibility felt upon the 
subject. Under these circumstances, on my re- 



TO THE PUBLIC. 



turn home in June last, it is not a matter of sur- 
prise that my friends, and others, should have 
felt anxious to have me publish the " sad tale oi 
rny sufferings." 

In preparing this Journal, I have aimed to be 
correct — to give a faithful and accurate detail of 
facts; and although it will probably contain some 
errors even in this respect, yet I think it will be 
free from the charge to which works of this de- 
scription are too generally and too justly expo- 
sed, that of containing strange and marvellous 
accounts. Not wishing to be deceived myself, 
I cannot, designedly, become the instrument of 
deceiving others. In describing the manners, 
customs, modes of living, religious ceremonies 
and worship of the Arabs, I have observed a 
minuteness which many may think unnecessary. 
But as the variance of a few shades changes the 
complexion and general appearance of a piece 
of painting, so a few minute, and apparently un- 
important particulars, affect, essentially, the ge- 
neral characteristics of a people. 

It was found impossible, in the course of the 
work*, to avoid incorporating some of the proper 
names of the Arabs ; in doing which I have 
been obliged to adopt an English orthography, 
and the barbarous and guttural sounds of their 
words appear, if possible, still more harsh when 
put in an English dress. Wherever Arabic 
terms or words have been used, they have gen- 
erally been explained; but the words Wiled 
and Biled which occur frequently in the w r ork, 
not having been explained in the text, it may not 
be improper to inform the reader in this place, 



TO THE PUBLIC. 



vii 



that the latter signifies country, and the former 
sons of; that is, denoting the first or primitive 
stock from whence the tribes have descended. 
These words, from the rapid speaking of the 
natives, are pronounced WilVd and BHed — as, 
WilVd Abbousebah — BHed Mouessa AIL 

Having had no other than a common educa- 
tion, and from the pursuits in which I have been 
engaged, it could not be supposed that I should 
make much pretension to literature. In pre- 
paring the work, I have been assisted by a gen- 
tleman of science and information, who has be- 
stowed upon it considerable attention, ai.d given 
it a shape and character which it could not have 
assumed if it had gone from my own hand, un- 
assisted by literary skill or scientific acquire- 
ments. 

ARCHIBALD ROBBINS. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAP. I. 

Page 

Short biographical sketch — Voyages — Author is taken pri- 
soner by H. B. M. frigate Surprise — discharged — taken 
again, and held till peace. — Brig Commerce — her owners 
and crew — voyage to New-Orleans — to Gibraltar* — her 
wreck on the African coast - - - 15 

CHAP. II. 

Shipwrecks — Wreck of the brig Commerce described — 
danger of the crew — landing on the African coast — 
wrecked articles — disposal of money — first view of a 
wandering Arab of the Zahara Desert — he is joined by 
more — they approach us, menace us, and retire — first 
night in Africa — we are driven aboard the wreck — at- 
tempt to go to sea in a boat — in vain — escape of Capt. 
Riley and capture of Antonio - - 21 

CHAP. III. 

A consultation — measures adopted to clear the surf — we 
put to sea In the long boat — alarms and distresses — stood 
out four days — stood in three days^and landed on the 
5th Sept. 1815, to the north of Cape Barbas, western 
coast of Africa ----- 30 

CHAP. IV. 

Brief historical sketch of the discoveries upon the African 
continent — origin of present European nations, and Afri- 
can tribes — Canary Islands — CapeBajador — Porto Santo 
— Madeira — Cape Verd — Cape of Good Hope — De Ga- 
ma — Columbus — East-Indies — America — Coast of Africa 
— Interior of Africa 38 

CHAP. V. 

Passage from Cape Barbas — mutual pledge— the coast — 
crossing precipice — projecting rock — watery cavern — 
view of Zahara — sleeping on hill— prayer — capture by 
4rabs, and separation - 50 

CHAP. VI. 

Separation of the crew—taking leave— departure into the 
desert — mode of travelling — water — goat skin— arrival 
at a tent — mode of making fire— cooking and eating — 



CONTENTS. 

travelling upon Zahara — Maho mine dan worship— cloth- 
ing ------- 63 

CHAP. VII. 

Meeting with part of the crew — preparations for a jour- 
ney — tent — furniture — man-saddle— female do.— load- 
ing tent and furniture — gazelle — Mr. Williams and Bar- 
rett — Christian and Mahommedan religion — separation 
—mode of spinning and weaving — of making a tent — 
of pitching it — scrupulous regard to worship - IB 

CHAP. VIII. 

Painful travelling — salutations — Mr. Williams' situation — 
Barrett — rocks — Africans enslave each other — a wander- 
ing male Arab — female do. — American pork — Mr. Sa- 
vage — interview with him— a rarity 88 

CHAP. IX. 

Origin of wandering Arabs — vegetables on the desert Za- 
hara — gloomy prospect — roots — snails — water obtained 
—submission to late — last meeting and last interview 
with Capt. Riley, Mr. Savage, Clarke, Burns, and Ho- 
race — situation upon desert — valley — meeting with Por- 
ter - 98 

CHAP. X. 

Sympathy— Hogan — his situation and feelings — received 
at the tent of Ganus — my mistress — fictitious ceremony 
— power of the female Arabs — gloomy valley — Dick — 
misery of black Africans — Messrs. Wilberforce and 
Clarkson — American flag upon Zahara desert - 112 

CHAP. XI. 

\ shower — a female fashion — an adventure — a journey — 
dress of a wandering Arab — smoking — Gum-Arabic — 
slaying a camel — a repast — Hogan — Arab hospitality 121 
CHAP. XII. 

A storm of sand — distress — a great story — Porter's sick- 
ness — a dismal plain — rapid travelling — nauseous water 
— description of a well in Zahara desert — marble moun- 
tain — deep valley and monument — impossibility of es- 
caping — Spaniard — view of the ocean — Cape Mirik — 
author sold to another Arab of the tribe of Wiled D'leim 130 
CHAP. XIII. 

Africa — the coast — Interior — Deserts — Mountains — Capes 
— Rivers — Islands — Straits - - - 146 

CHAP. XIV. 

Mahomet Meaarah — Fishing — Cape Mirik — innocent de- 
ception — obstinacy — Barrett — Hon. William Willshire— 



CONTENTS. 

calendar — second tour into the desert — thanksgiving — 
description of camel — mode of instruction in reading and 
writing - 155 

CHAP. XV. 

A. long journey — Porter— locusts, mcde of catching, cook- 
ing, and eating them — narrow escape — Mahommedan 
teacher — blacksmith upon the desert — salt-bed— debili- 
ty approaching to death - - - 169 

CHAP. XVI. 

Medical practice — Hogan and Dick — sale of Porter — hap- 
piness in Zahara — author regains his health — is sold to 
Hamet Webber, an Arab merchant of the Wiled £1 
Kabla — African and European merchandise — an expect- 
ed battle— gunnery — females of the El Kabla tribe 179 

CHAP. XVII. 
A Caravan — an armed Arab — black mountains — cultiva- 
ted land — apprehension of danger — African serpents — 
Hamet joins a caravan which is attacked — mountains of 
sand — fatigue —caravan broken up — author sold to Bel 
Cossina Abdallah of Wadinoon — wounded Arab — arrival 
at Wadinoon. - - - - 188 

CHAP. XVIII. 

Wadinoon — its situation — number of houses and inhabitants 
— cattle — people— gardens — vegetables — barley harvest 
— cruelty of Bel Cossim — reaping, threshing, winnowing 
and grinding — keskoosoo — eating — market and fairs — 
manner of building houses — Sheick's house - - 197 

CHAP. XIX. 

Public worship — fasting season — feasting season — circum- 
cision—wreck of a prize to the Romp, and her crew — re- 
demption of the crew of the British brig Surprise — Sidi 
Hesnam, his appearance and power — Jews, decree con- 
cerning them— tobacco and snuff — Hamet Webber 209 

CHAP. XX. 

Nature of government among the Arabs — marriage cere- 
monies — interment of dead — the Saint, Sidi Timah — a 
mound — practice of physic — amusements — ransom of 
Porter— quarrel between Wadinoon and Akkadia — a 
flood — ploughing season — description of locusts — mutto- 
morahs - - - - - - 217 

CHAP. XXL 

•Manuscript in English— author purchased by a Shilluh — 
leaves Wadinoon — dangerous travelling — distant view of 
Santa Cruz— monuments— EPajjah Mahomet—letter and 
express sent to Mogadore— the" Shilluh — productions of 



CONTENTS. 

their country — story of the Spaniard— message from Mo- 
gadore — passport to that place ... 2S0 

CHAP. XXII. 
Departure with El'ajjah Mahomet — El -wad Sta — sand 
hills — the ocean — Atlas mountains — arrival at Santa 
Cruz — description of that place — passage over a moun- 
tain — a contrast — romantic view — cottage in a forest — 
dogs — view of Mogadore — reception by Mr. Wifohire — 
admission into his house — cheering American flag 241 

CHAP. XXIII. 
Character of Mr. Willshire— description of Mogadore— 
the Jews — markets — manufactures — public buildings- 
mode of worship — manners of the people — population — 
harbor— shipwrecks— letter from the Hon. James Simp- 
son - 25G 

CHAP. XXIV. 
The author, Davis, and Brown, leave Mogadore for Tan- 
gier — the country — Azamor— river Qmmirabih — Douar 
of tents — fearful apprehensions — equestrian exercise — 
escape by night — aqueduct— arrival at Rabat - 257 
CHAP. XXV. 

Rabat, description of it — the harbour — shad — Mr. Abou- 
derham — Jewish feasf — Sallee— a Lake — river Saboo — 
scenery — Rock of Gibraltar, and Mount Atlas— arrival at 
Tangier— reflections — Hon. James Simpson — Mount 
Washington, in Africa— passage to Gibraltar— Mr. Hen- 
ry, consul — Mr. Simpson's letter - - §64 



INTRODUCTION. 

THE narratives and journals of adventurers^ 
the shipwrecked, the traveller, and the captive, 
are often told with exaggerations, and not un- 
frequently condemned by the discerning. Such 
narrations gratify those who are always seeking 
" to see or hear some new thing;" but they only raise 
the wonder of the credulous, and deceive the in- 
quirer after truth. But it may be here remark- 
ed, that readers are readily disposed to disbe- 
lieve every thing that goes counter to their own 
experience, that surpasses their own observa- 
tions, or that represents the actions of men, and 
men themselves, in a manner that violates their 
ideas of human nature. The author of the fol- 
lowing Jounal has seen life in a sphere uncom- 
mon to his countrymen : — he has endured mise- 
ries uncommon to human nature. But by the 
blessings of a merciful Providence, he has sur- 
vived to relate them to his countrymen. How- 
ever imperfect may be the manner in which he 
may give his relation, he is determined that the 
matter shall be founded on facts alone. If these 
facts are of a nature calculated to excite the 
doubts of his readers, he can only regret it; and 
will content himself with the reflection, that as 
he is incapable of deceiving his readers, he will 
not wound his own conscience by uttering a 
known falsehood. He hopes not even to be mis- 
taken. 

B 



INTRODUCTION. 



The narrative of my highly respected friend, 
Capt. James Riley, is already before the public. 
It has excited that interest which the history of 
human sufferings is calculated to produce among 
a humane people. For two months he was a 
captive among a race of beings, whose " tender 
mercies are cruelties." During that period, I, toge- 
ther with the rest of his unfortunate crew, was 
likewise a sufferer. At the end of this time, he 
was released from a cruel bondage, and was re- 
stored to his native country and anxious friends. 
A more cruel fate attended me. J was still de- 
tained as a captive among the wandering Arabs; 
and was compelled, for nineteen months, to en- 
dure as much as human nature can bear and yet 
survive. I have, however, abundant reason to 
rejoice that I am now among my friends, while 
the fate of some of this wretched crew is still 
unki own. The following journal shall be a 
faithful and accurate detail of all the knowledge 
I po^ sess of this ill-fated crew. 



JOURNAL, #c. 



CHAP. I. 

Skort biographical sketch — Voyages — Author is taken prisoner 
by H. B. M. frigate Surprise — discharged — taken again, and 
held till peace. — Brig Commerce — her owners and crew — voy- 
age to JYew-Orleans — to Gibraltar— her zvreck on the African 
coast. 

THE life of an humble individual is of but 
little consequence to a community, where the 
lives of the great are read as a common amuse- 
ment. But as I am about to relate an inte- 
resting part of my own, I hope I shall escape the 
imputation of vanity by very briefly relating it 
from my birth. I was born in the town of Weth- 
ersfield, Conn. — a pleasant and fertile town, 
situated on the west side of Connecticut river, 
on the 19th day of November, 1792. I conti- 
nued with my parents there until I arrived to 
the age of twelve years. At this time I went to 
reside in the town of Middlebury, Vt. In this 
flourishing village, in which is situated a Uni- 
versity which begins to rank amongst the first 
in New-England, I spent the winters in obtain- 
ing a common school education; which, added 
to the little knowledge I had before acquired 
in my native town, gave me such rudiments of 
an English education, as is common with the 



10 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 

young men of New-England. I returned to 
Wethersfield at the age of about fifteen years, 
and continued with my father until I became 
sixteen. Situated in a town where ship-build 
mg was then a leading business, and from which 
a great number of young men had gone to try 
their fortunes upon the ocean, I soon turned my 
attention from the peaceful and certain pursuit 
of husbandry, to the hazardous employment ot 
a seaman. 

My first voyage w r as made in a vessel, partly 
owned by my father, from Wethersfield to the 
island of St. Christophers. No incident hap- 
pened to the vessel, to the crew, nor to myself, 
worthy of relation. No part of the cargo, nor 
any lives of the crew were lost. 

The second voyage I made was in the same 
vessel to Wilmington, N. Carolina, from thence 
to the W. indies — back again to Wilmington— 
from thence again to the West-Indies, and back 
to Wethersfield. A pleasant voyage. 

My third voyage was made from New-York 
to the West-Indies, from whence I returned to 
New-London in Connecticut. 

Thus far I had met with no disasters uncom- 
mon to the pursuit of a sea-faring life. I became 
attached to it, as is common with the young men 
of New-England. The fascinating charms of the 
ocean, and the pleasing diversity of a sailor's life, 
led me along, like the song of the Syren, to the 
endurance of privations and miseries, which, 
when I now review, call upon me for the most 
undissembled gratitude to that merciful Being, 
who suffers not a sparrow to fall to the ground 



R0BB1NS' JOURNAL. 



17 



without his knowledge; and who mercifully 

^ tempers the wind to the shorn lamb" 

My fourth voyage was commenced in the 
month of February. 1313. The American can- 
vass could no longer be spread with safety upon 
the ocean. Her proud and powerful mistress — 
wielding the trident of Neptune, would no longer 
permit the " striped bunting*' of x\mericans to 
pursue its wonted course. We sailed from New- 
York for the neutral port of St. Bartholomews — 
were taken on our passage, by his B. M. frigate 
Surprise, and landed at St. Bartholomews, from 
whence, after a short detention, I returned in *> 
cartel to New-York. 

The fifth voyage I made, I sailed from New- 
Haven, (Ct.) for St. Bartholomews, in Septem- 
ber. 1813, and was brought to by the British 
squadron lying off New-London. They took 
from our vessel about eighty barrels of provi- 
sions, and ordered us for Halifax. I remained 
there about two months. 1 then took a passage 
in a Swedish vessel for St. Bartholomews; having 
business entrusted to me at that island by a mer- 
chant in the city of New-York. I succeeded in 
accomplishing my business, and returned off 
New-London. The vessel, in w r hich I was a pas- 
senger, was taken by the squadron, and I was put 
on board of the Borer, brig of war, and sent again 
to Halifax. 1 remained a prisoner in the prison 
on Melville island, until the conclusion of the 
peace by the treaty of Ghent. I hoped to have 
been in some measure compensated for this im- 
prisonment, by receiving pay for eighteen months 
employ, and imprisonment occasioned by that eoa- 

B 2 



18 



ROBBIWS' JOURJNa^. 



ploy, by the merchant at New-York. — His failure 
in the mean time cut me off from realizing this 
hope; but as he is a man of the strictest honour ! 
have no doubt but I shall yet be coinpei^ated* 
On my return to America, I found myself destitute 
of property and employ, but not of resolution. 

1 now come to the relation of the sixth and last 
voyage I have made. In relating it I sensibly feel 
a high degree of responsibility. But, taking the 
pole-star of truth for my guide, I am determined 
to satisfy my conscience, and, if possible, my 
readers. 

I felt anxious to pursue a business with which 
experience had made me acquainted. The brig 
Commerce, of Hartford, Con. being owned by Ri- 
ley & Brown and the Messrs. Savages, was fitted 
for sea. She was a fine stout built new vessel. 
The acknowledged respectability of her owners, 
as merchants, and the long experience and repu- 
tation of Captain James Riley, as her command- 
er, induced me to enter her in the capacity of an 
able seaman. Her principal mate was Mr. George 
Williams, of Middletown — her second mate was 
Mr. Aaron R. Savage, of the same place. The 
crew consisted of William Porter, Thomas Burns, 
James Clarke, andiryself, seamen; Horace Savage, 
cabin boy; Francis Bliss, James Carrington, ordi- 
nary seamen ; and Richard Delisle, (a man of co- 
lour,) cook. 

This brig cleared out from Middletown for 
New-Orleans, with a small cargo — her ballast 
being brick. The object of the voyage to New- 
Orleans was to obtain a freight for a foreign mar- 
ket. We sailed on the 6th day of May from Say 



ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 19 

brook, situated at the mouth of Connecticut ri- 
ver. Nothing material occurred until off Carys- 
fort reef, on the coast of E. Florida. The vessel 
struck upon this reef, and excited great appre- 
hension in our captain and crew for the safety 
of the vessel and ourselves. We clewed down 
all sails, and let go an anchor, which immediate- 
ly brought her to ; having passed the reef, and 
riding safe in about twelve feet water. We then 
lowered down her stern boat ; and the captain 
and four of the crew entered her — sounded be- 
low her for a safe passage — found one — weighed 
anchor, and passed through in safety. We ar- 
rived at the city of New-Orleans upon the 1st 
day of June. We here discharged our cargo, 
and took in a cargo of flour and tobacco. The 
two ordinary seamen, Bliss and Carrington, ob- 
jected to going a voyage to Gibraltar, to which 
place the vessel was bound, and were discharg- 
ed. Two seamen were shipped in their room, 
viz. John Hogan and James Barrett. On the 
24th of June, we sailed from New-Orleans for 
Gibraltar ; and, after a passage of about forty- 
five days, we arrived at that place and landed 
our cargo. I was ordered, with three others, 
while lying in the bay, to go with Capt. Riley on 
board a schooner, from New-York. In perform- 
ing this service, assisting the schooner in beat- 
ing out of the harbor, and returning to the brig, 
it having become almost dark, our boat was up- 
set; and while we were hanging upon it, we w r ere 
relieved by Capt. Price, who returned with his 
schooner to our assistance ; and having bailed 
the boat we returned to the brig. 



20 BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 

We now took in part of a cargo of brandy and 
wine. An elderly man, by the name of Antonio 
Michel, was taken on board to work his passage 
to New-York. On the 23d day of August, we 
set sail from Gibraltar for the Cape de Verd 
islands, to complete the cargo with salt. The 
usual course from Gibraltar to these islands is, 
to run down, and make the island of Madeira ; 
but Capt. Riley, wishing to make the passage as 
expeditious as possible, run down between the 
Canary islands and the African coast. We con- 
tinued our course, w r ith all sails set. The wea- 
ther being thick and foggy, we passed the grand 
Canaries without discovering them. It was no- 
ticed by the mates and some of the crew, on the 
28th day of August, (sea account,) at meridian, 
that the water was coloured, indicating a near 
approach to land. This circumstance was men- 
tioned to Capt. Riley; but he was of opinion that 
this appearance was occasioned by the fog and 
the thick weather ; and he continued his course 
S. W. at ten knots an hour, until, at about 10 
o'clock in the evening, we were wrecked on the 
coast of Africa, near Cape Bajador, between 26 
and 27 degs. N. Latitude. 



BOBBINS' JOURNAL* 



CHAP. II. 

Shipwrecks— Wreck of the brig Commerce described— danger of 
the crew- -landing on the African coast— wrecked articles- 
disposal of m oney— first view of a wandering Arab of the Za - 
hara Desert— he is joined by more— they approach us, menace 
us, and retire— first night in Africa — we are driven aboard 
the wreck — attempt to go to sea in a boat — in vain — escape of 
Capt. Riley and capture of Antonio. 

TO a seaman, the description of a shipwreck 
is familiar from his knowledge of a vessel, the 
tackle, and the nautical terms of sea-faring men; 
but by that portion of readers who are not thus 
acquainted, no adequate conception can be 
formed of the appalling horrors of such a scene. 
When it is foreseen, and yet cannot be avoided, 
the mind is, in a degree, prepared to encounter 
it. It is fortified greatly by appealing to that 
Being who, on the ivings of mighty winds" di- 
rects the storm that is powerful enough to dash 
to pieces the strongest fabrick of human inven- 
tion. But when it comes upon the unsuspicious, 
who are riding in apparent security upon that 
element with which they have become familiar, 
the scene is doubly horrible. Thus it came up- 
on our worthy captain and his ill-fated crew. 
The gale, that we imagined was w r afting us on 
our passage to our native shore, and the arms of 
our friends, dashed us upon the inhospitable 
coast of merciless barbarians. At a little past 
10, on the night of the memorable 28th of Au- 
gust, our fine brig ran ashore with such violence 
as to start us from the deck, or prostrate us up- 



22 



ROBB1NS' JOURNAL. 



<m it. We immediately let go our sheet anchor, 
clewed down our sails, and used every exertion 
to save her. But her fate was decided, and our 
exertions were vain. The sea broke with tre- 
mendous power over the starboard quarter, and 
our stern boat, being in danger, we took her on 
board. We then broke open the hold, and ex- 
erted all our energies in filling small casks 
with water from our large water casks, know- 
ing that the dismal coast on which fate had 
driven us, was almost destitute of that indispen- 
sable necessary of life. We also secured all the 
provisions we could, as the vessel was now fast 
filling with w r ater. At 12 o'clock, the weather 
became sufficiently clear to enable us to disco- 
ver the beach off the larboard bow. The lar- 
board bulwark was instantly cut away, to ena- 
ble us to launch the boats with greater expedi- 
tion and safety. The small boat was then low- 
ered into the water, into which Capt. Riley and 
William Porter jumped, and carried a rope 
ashore which they made fast by means of sticks 
which had floated there from the wreck. We 
then got the long-boat overboard, and hauled 
her under our larboard bow. We threw over 
some barrels of water and wine, w r hich floated 
ashore, and by those on shore were secured. 
We put into the boat two or three barrels of 
bread, and some beef and pork. I jumped into 
the boat with James Barrett, and, veering her 
by means of a rope fastened on board the brig, 
we approached the shore. The surf immedi- 
ately filled her. We instantly jumped over- 
board, and saved some of our w^f provisions 



ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 



23 



and secured one barrel of bread wholly dry. 
Capt. Riley, Porter, Barrett and myself were 
now ashore. The long boat being bilged, and 
the small one unable to stand the surf, we could 
not return to the wreck. Our companions on 
board, in the mean time, were heaving over- 
board chests, beds, and every article that would 
float, that they could come at, and those of us 
on shore were securing them as they floated 
within our reach. Day-light at length appear- 
ed. Capt. Riley hailed the mates, who were 
both on board, ordering; them to make fast one 
of the ropes, that extended from the wreck to 
the shore, around his trunk containing some spe- 
cie. This being done, we dragged the trunk 
ashore. The brig was now completely filled 
with water. Capt. Riley ordered the masts to 
be cut away. This being done by those on 
board, our next attention • was directed to the 
best means in our power, to rescue our compan- 
ions from the imminent danger surrounding 
them. I had been ordered, with Barrett, to 
come ashore in the long boat with provisions, as 
before mentioned, and to return again. This 
was now impracticable, as the boat was bilged 
— the small boat would not have lived in the 
surf a moment — but a rope remained fastened 
to the wreck, and extending to the shore. This 
was loosened, and made fast to the hawser, by 
those on board, and by those who had landed, 
drawn to the shore, and made as fast as the slen- 
der means within our power would enable us to 
do it. It was now high water. The brig lay 
from twenty-five to thirty rods from the shore ; 



24 



ROBBING JOURNAL. 



and between them, the surf was rolling and roar- 
ing in a manner calculated to produce conster- 
nation and despair in the stoutest heart Capt. 
Riley, by signals, as he could not now be heard, 
motioned to those upon the wreck to come 
ashore upon the hawser. He placed himself, 
together with Porter, Barrett, and myself at the 
hawser, as far in the water as we could stand, 
the surf all the while breaking over us. At 
length Hogan attempted the perilous passage. 
Suspended upon the hawser, between two 
worlds, uncertain to which every returning surge 
might waft him, he approached the shore. Be- 
fore he reached it, he was so much exhausted, 
that he lost his hold — a surf washed him within 
our reach, and we saved him. The next that 
arrived and was received into our arms was Mr. 
Savage, second mate. Young Savage, (cabin 
boy,) Antonio, Mr. Williams, first mate, Clarke, 
Burns, and Dick, (man of colour,) came in suc- 
cession, and landed at about sunrise on a coast 
containing a race of beings more merciless than 
the waves from which they had just escaped. 

We now found ourselves with bodies exhaust- 
ed, and minds agitated, stretched upon a desert 
shore. We saw, for nearly a mile on the shore, 
the fragments of a valuable cargo, which, twelve 
hours before, we thought safe. Our first atten- 
tion w r as directed to the boats. We hauled 
them up from the surf, and gave Capt. Riley all 
the assistance we possibly could in gathering 
together the small amount of provisions and 
clothing which lay strewed along. This being 
done, our captain opened his trunk in which 



ROBBINS' JOURISaju. 25 

were two bags of specie of $1000 each. He 
told us all to take as much of it as we could con- 
ceal about our persons. I declined taking any 
part of it, as I had already more of my own than 
I could thus hide from the eye of an Arab. It 
is impossible to tell what would have been our 
fate, had not the Arabs discovered that w r e had 
in our possession the precious metals; but I ve- 
rily believe it was the discovery of it that in- 
duced them to heighten their demands for our 
ransom, and increase their cruelty to our per- 
sons. The other bag was buried in the sand. 
The sun was now rising over a sand hill that 
stretched along a short distance from the shore. 
Our attention was now attracted to the appear- 
ance of a human creature at the distance of 
nearly half a mile approaching us ; if that crea- 
ture can be called human whose appearance is 
nothing but a slander upon our species. As he 
discovered the wrecked articles and our WTetch- 
ed group, he manifested, by his actions, the 
commotions of a mind agitated by the mingled 
operations of joy and fear. He came perhaps 
within tw r enty rods of us ; and then, by signs, 
showed an intention of departing. Capt. Riley 
walked gently towards him, and by every sign 
that could be resorted to, endeavoured to per- 
suade him to come and take possession of some 
portion of the wrecked articles. After inter- 
changing signs, in token of peace, this horrible 
figure, that defied description, left us to our re- 
flections upon this adventure. We were then 
endeavoring, with oars and the fragments of 
broken spars, together with two of our steering 

c 



26 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 

sails, which we had secured from the wreck, to 
erect a tent and secure our provisions and wa- 
ter; scarcely thinking of any thing else, from 
the peculiar perils of our situation. While bu- 
sily engaged in this service, the figure before 
mentioned re-appeared ; being joined by two 
aged females of the most frightful aspect, a boy 
and two small girls, whom we supposed to be 
their children. More terrible visages never 
presented themselves to the astonished eyes and 
the agitated hearts of men. The gnashing teeth 
and opened mouth of the old man, stretching al- 
most from ear to ear — his long grey beard hang 
ing on his breast — his head covered with long 
bushy hair, standing in every direction — the red 
and flashing eyes of the old women, their tushes 
projecting from their jaws — and the more mild, 
though terrible appearance of their ferocious 
brood, imparted feelings to us, better imagined 
than described. Although the old man, on his 
first appearance, showed evidence of fear, it was 
now changed to insolence. He broke open the 
chests, and plundered the clothing; and, ap- 
proaching our tent, was about to wrest from us 
our provisions and water. We resolved that 
death should be his immediate portion, and that 
of his clan, if he attempted this ; indeed, had it 
not been for the almost certain knowledge that 
the sand hill concealed a numerous horde like 
his, they would soon have been deprived of the 
power of plundering us at all. They departed 
with their plunder, and left our wretched party 
either to despair, or to take measures for our 
future escape or safety. Capt. Riley proposed 



ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 27 

to attempt a repair of the long boat. Mr. Sa- 
vage, Porter, Horace, and I, assisted him in do- 
ing this in the best manner we could. The rest 
of our shipmates, from that despair which pro- 
duces desperation, had deprived themselves of 
the power of joining us in this necessary duty, 
by too freely using the wine within their reach. 
Some of these natives had furnished us with some 
fire, with which we cooked some salted pork, by 
fuel procured from the beach. This, with some 
bread and butter, furnished us with the last 
meal we were to enjoy from the provisions yet 
saved from the wreck. The old man with his 
hideous followers had retired — the night came 
on — and although, on one side the ocean was 
dashing her surging billows upon the rocks we 
had just escaped, and on the other we were en- 
vironed by the sand hill concealing probably a 
horde of wretches preparing on the approaching 
morning to recommence the work of plunder, 
and perhaps become our executioners, I sunk 
down, with my shipmates, excepting a watch, 
into a profound and refreshing sleep upon the 
sand under our tent. 

The next morning, the sun rose more gloomily 
to us than it did to Sterne's sick Lieutenant. 
He was sinking into the arms of death, among 
his anxious friends ; — we were in momentary 
danger of being devoured by demons, whose di- 
abolical ferocity would have added a Jaurel to 
the escutcheon of Satan himself. The old man 
once more made his appearance with additional 
reinforcements. The women commenced a yell, 
that reminded me of the description of the wail- 



28 ROBBINS 5 JOURNAL. 

ing of the damned spirits. He ordered us to 
the wreck, pointing to a drove of camels de- 
scending a hill to the eastward. He ap- 
proached our tent with an iron spear, and com- 
menced an assault We all fled to the small 
boat, while Capt. Riley defended himself with 
a piece of a spar with the most consummate 
coolness. Our little boat immediately filled — 
bilged — and we re-landed, and drove the old 
Arab some distance up the beach. The camels, 
with their armed riders, were pressing upon us. 
We flew to the long boat — turned her over, and 
committing ourselves to the waves, we all reach- 
ed the wreck, and viewed these banditti, armed 
with spears and scimitars, showing us the tokens 
of defiance, and carrying off or destroying all 
they found upon the shore. Immediately upon 
getting aboard, we sought through the wreck to 
get what provisions we could. We found a few 
pieces of pork and a few bottles of wine, but no 
water. These we let down into the boat, which 
was in a leaky condition, requiring two men to 
bail her. Porter and I got a fore-top-mast-stay- 
sail, and put it into the boat. We could find no 
oars ; and as a substitute, we split two planks 
which we found floating in the hold. These we 
also put into the boat. We all let ourselves 
down into the boat, and attempted to put to sea. 
The surf nearly filled our boat, and drove us 
back to the wreck which we regained. The 
Arabs afterwards returned, unarmed, and by 
manifesting every appearance of peace, and of- 
fering Capt. Riley a goat skin, which will here- 
after be described, filled with water, induced 



ROBBINS JOURNAL. 29 

him to go ashore. The old man came aboard, 
and after seeking for fire-arms and money, in 
vain, he went ashore. We then witnessed the 
danger of Capt. Riley — he was seized by two of 
the clan, and we expected to be sad spectators 
of his death. We sent all the money we had on 
board in a bucket, to the shore, hoping to ap- 
pease the vengeance of these merciless wretch- 
es. We were disappointed. The danger of our 
captain increased. He hailed us. Mr. Savage 
once more descended on the hawser, and was 
approaching the beach, and was discovered by 
the captain, who intreated him by signs to re- 
turn, and send Antonio ashore. He did so ; but 
as Antonio carried no money, the vengeance of 
the Arabs apparently arose to the highest pitch. 
Capt. Riley made his escape to the wreck, fol- 
lowed by two natives, and Antonio Was seized, 
loaded with plunder, and forced over the sand hill. 

Since I have returned to America, I have read 
a small part of Capt. Riley's narrative. I find 
that Capt. Riley expressed his regret at the death 
of Antonio, fearing that he was the cause of it. 
He may dismiss his regret upon this subject, as 
I, with many of my shipmates, are positive that 
he was not assassinated, as our captain states. 
We distinctly saw the Arabs load his back with 
plunder, and force him to carry it over the sand 
hill. Afterwards, while at sea in our boat, it 
was a subject of conversation amongst us, that 
if we were all lost, as then seemed inevitable, 
Antonio would be the only survivor to relate our 
disaster, to our anxious friends, should he ever 
return to his native country, 

C2 



30 



ROBB1NS' JOURNAL. 



CHAP. III. 

A consultation — measures adapted to clear the surf- — we put to 
sea in the long boat — alarms and distresses — stood out four 
days — stood in three days, and landed on the 5th Sept. 1815, 
w the north of Cape Barbas, western coast of Africa. 

WE were now all on board the wreck, except- 
ing poor Antonio, whose fate was mentioned at 
the close of the last chapter. A melancholy 
consultation was held by the captain and crew. 
Whether to go ashore and fall sudden victims to 
the Arabs, or drag out a miserable existence of 
slavery among them — or to entrust ourselves to 
the foaming billow r s, with our shattered boat, 
was a question, upon the decision of which hung, 
perhaps, " our life, our death — our bane, our anti- 
dote" After long deliberation, we concluded 
once more to attempt our escape by sea. The 
weather had been moderating through the day — 
the wind a little shifted to the eastward, and the 
surf had, in a degree, subsided. To make our 
attempt with greater security, we rigged a spar 
over the stern of the wreck, making fast a rope 
to its outer end, to force the boat through the 
surf, and give her a good head-way. We then 
put aboard every thing we had received from 
the wreck to begin our perilous voyage, which 
the boat could contain, in her leaky condition. 
These consisted of a few pieces of salt pork — a 
live pig — which we took from the wreck to the 
shore — and which, wonderful to relate, had vo- 
luntarily swum from the shore to the wreck— 



ROBB1NS' JOURNAL. 3] 

about four gallons of water, a few pounds of figs, 
soaked in salt water, and about a dozen bottles 
of w ine. We likewise had aboard our small 
boat's sails, consisting of jib and main-sail, and 
the fore-top-mast-stay-sail of the brig, and the 
splitted planks, before mentioned, which were to 
serve us for oars. 

We now descended into the boat, out of which 
Porter w r aded to the shore, and brought aboard 
an oar which he found laying on the beach. Of 
his own accord, he went again on shore and 
brought aboard about four or five hundred dol- 
lars w hich had before been buried. We now 
fixed ourselves at the oars, and at the rope bend- 
ed from the spar provided as before mentioned. 
Capt. Riley placed himself at the. stern of the 
boat to steer her with a plank, she having no 
rudder. We then, by an united effort, forced 
ourselves through the surf without difficulty, and 
passed off into a smooth sea. This was accom- 
plished at nearly sun-set. Capt. Riley returned 
thanks to Heaven, in which we all joined with 
uncovered heads, and, I trust, with sincere 
hearts, for our safe escape from the shore and 
from the surf. Darkness now approached ; and 
cape Bajador being under our lee, the wind be- 
ing partly ahead, we w r ere under the most fear- 
ful apprehension lest we could not clear the 
cape. We spent the whole night in rowing and 
bailing, until our strength and fortitude were al- 
most exhausted. At day-light, how r ever, we were 
greatly rejoiced to find ourselves to the leeward 
of his fatal cape. It was like the transition from 
exp< :ted destruction to hoped-for safety. 



32 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 

On the morning of the 30th August, we ran 
moderately down the coast to the S. W. ; during 
which time we were in consultation upon the 
question, whether we should run down to the 
Senegal river, upon which there is an European 
settlement near its mouth, or stand off, and en- 
deavour to make some of the Canary Islands. 
The objections to going to the first mentioned 
place were, that we had no quadrant, no com- 
pass, and no chart of the coast. A further ob- 
jection was, that if, in the night season, we should 
pass the Senegal and Cape Verd, without dis- 
# covering either, we should then be in the open 
sea without any hopes. On the other hand, it 
was said, if we should stand off, and attempt to 
make some of the Canaries, we should, with 
more likelihood, fall inwith some European ves- 
sels. We concluded to alter our course, and 
stand off for the Canaries. We this day put 
ourselves upon allowance, viz. — one bottle ot 
water and half a bottle of wine amongst eleven 
of us, this being the whole crew. We also al 
lowanced ourselves to two figs each ; the pork 
not being particularly allowanced. We endea- 
voured to secure the boat from the breaking in 
of the sea, by fitting around her gunwale, waste- 
clothes about eight inches above it, composed of 
a part of the fore-stay- sail. We had a fresh 
breeze from N. E. during the day, and kept her 
close upon the wind ; but made but little head- 
way, our sails being small, and a considerable 
sea running, which drifted us fast to the lee- 
ward. 

On the 31st of August the weather mod' rated 



ROBBINS 5 JOURNAL. 33 

We were in no immediate danger from the sea, 
notwithstanding our boat was in a most shatter- 
ed condition, and we continued to stand out. 
Our pig, for the want of necessary sustenance, 
began to grow thin, and we concluded to kill 
him, while he was yet in an eatable state. His 
blood we carefully preserved to quench our 
thirst. His intestines we devoured for the same 
purpose. It was the painful sensations of thirst 
that we most dreaded; and to guard against it, 
we began to preserve our own urine, securing it 
in the bottles we had before emptied of their 
contents. As the night came on, it threatened 
darkness, and squally weather. The wind blew 
strong from the N. E. and by midnight the sea 
ran so high as nearly to fill the boat. We en- 
deavored, w r ith every instrument in our posses- 
sion, to bail her; our buckets, our hats, and ev- 
ery thing that would hold water, were used for 
this purpose ; and although we all expected that 
every returning surge would send us to the bot- 
tom, we succeeded in keeping our boat alive un- 
til morning. No one can judge of our peril ex- 
cepting those who have experienced something 
similar. The rocking of the boat had drawn 
most of her nails. We saw nothing of the dis- 
mal gloom that surrounded us, excepting what 
was presented to our affrightened view by the 
vivid lightning which kept constantly flashing. 
We could derive hope from no source but from 
the interposition of an over-ruling God, whose 
voice we hear in the thunder, and whose arrows 
we see in the lightning, and even this was de- 
spaired of. Capt. Riley and Mr. Savage alter- 



34 



ROBBINS 5 JOURNAL 



nately prayed with us, which had considerable 
effect in allaying our fears, and encouraging our 
dying hopes. 

Day-light at length appeared, on the morning 
of the 1st September. No painter could ade- 
quately have described the appearance of this 
gloomy group of human beings. Despair was 
depicted upon every countenance, and fortitude 
deserted every heart. We supposed we were 
about to lose our last hold upon life, so dear to 
us all ; and as our fate seemed remediless, we 
submitted to its decrees in silent horror. Soon 
after, however, the weather moderated consi- 
derably, and the wind hauled about to N. N. W. 
We continued to stand off; but we relinquished 
all hopes of fetching any of the Canaries, and 
our only remaining hope was of falling in with 
some sail that might be running down near where 
we were situated. Our thirst increased to a de- 
gree almost intolerable, and the scorching rays 
of the sun, being within the torrid zone, were 
nearly insupportable. We relieved our parch- 
ed and thirsty frames a little, by making use of 
a few drops of wine and water, and the urine 
we had preserved. 

On the 2d, we continued to stand out for a 
considerable part of the day. Capt. Riley, with 
all the rest of us, gave up all hopes of descrying 
a sail; our provisions and water were growing 
short ; our strength began to fail with our hopes, 
and by an unanimous voice, we concluded to 
stand in for the shore ; lest, by getting farther 
out at sea, we should be wholly unable, from 
the state of the boat, our provisions, and our 



ROBBIES' JQUBNAU 35 
strength, to stand the sea or reach any shore 
■ whatever. We then, towards evening, put her 
head towards the coast, which we had left, and 
lodging by the sun. began to steer a S. E. course. 

On the 3d of September, standing in, we were 
favoured with a fair wind, nothing very material 
occurring. Dismal as the prospect before us 
appeared, horrid as the recollection of the coast 
we had left was to our minds, we still felt a kind 
of desperate satisfaction in returning to it. Des- 
perate, inxleed. was the choice, as I trust my rea- 
ders will find in the sequel of this Journal. 

During the 4th. standing in. we were on the 
constant look-out for land, and feeling the deep- 
est anxiety to discover it. The day passed off, 
and we beheld nothing but the surrounding 
ocean, expecting every hour to be swallowed up 
by it. We subsisted, as we before had done, 
without any water excepting a little urine to wet 
our parched lips, and stiffened tongues. In the 
night season, we obtained a little rest during the 
short intervals afforded us from the duty of row- 
ing and bailing the boat. 

On the morning of the 5th. we discovered land 
at a great distance to leeward. Why we should 
have rejoiced at beholding a coast from which 
we had so recently escaped with our bare lives, 
is difficult to determine. But, in the elegant 
language of the Poet — ;i When grief overpowers 
v.s. a twine may lead us.'' The current drove us 
rapidly towards the shore. As we approached 
it. we found it bounded by perpendicular rocks, 
rising in majestic and destructive grandeur. 
We could discover no aperture, through which 



36 ROBBINS 7 JOURNAL. 

we might pass for some time. At length we saw 
something that had the appearance of a sand 
bank. We made for it with all our little strength; 
and, exerting ourselves with our oars, and rising 
upon a wave that elevated us mountain high, 
we were carried on to a beach of sand of very 
small extent. As the wave retired we surveyed, 
in silent astonishment, the yawning grave of 
rocks we had just escaped. They looked like 
the jaws of a natural sepulchre, and we consi- 
dered ourselves as rescued by Almighty power 
from the grave they seemed to have formed to 
receive our emaciated bodies. Thus, after se- 
ven days perilous navigation, in our frail boat, 
four days standing out and three standing in, we 
landed. Having stated that we were in the boat 
seven days, 1 must add, that this is according to 
my best recollection. During the time we vscre 
out, we little thought of reckoning days, when 
we all the while thought our last day had come; 
and it is from the most mature reflection that I 
have fixed it at the number of days mentioned. 
It would not be singular, after all, if a mistake, 
in this respect, should be made. 

The place, where we thus landed, was to the 
northward of cape Barbas ; and between that 
cape and the river St. Cyprian, being at this time 
entirely dry ; the coast running from E. N. E. to 
W. S. W. While Capt. Riley and Mr. Savage 
were seeking a passage to the land above the 
rocks, we made all the preparation we could for 
a night's repose, after having exerted all the re- 
maining strength we had in digging for water in 
the sand, without finding it. They returned ; 



ROBBINS' JOURNAL 



37 



and after partaking with us of a little refresh- 
ment, we committed our bodies to our bed of 
sand, and enjoyed undisturbed repose until 
morning. We then opened our eyes, and found 
ourselves again upon the land of barbarians ! ! 

I had been taught in early life to believe in 
the doctrine of an overruling Providence ; that 
the destiny of men is in His hands, and that, " it 
is not in man that ivalkeih to direct his own steps." 
1 was most sensibly convinced of the truth of 
these positions at this time. Although one mis- 
fortune had trod close upon the heel of another, 
for some years previous, until after a great va- 
riety of calamities I was now reduced to one 
which must be the greatest, excepting death, we 
can endure on earth, and which no possible 
change but that could make worse, I still felt the 
most perfect submission. Whether it arose from 
Christian humility, or from that kind of apathy, 
from long misfortune, which brings the minds of 
men to feel a contempt for even fate itself, I can- 
not certainly tell ; but this I can assuredly say, 
I felt not the least disposition to murmur or re- 
pine at my fate, however awful it was, or might 
become, 

D 



38 



BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 



CHAP. IV. 

Brief historical sketch of the discoveries upon the African conti- 
nent — origin of present European nations, and African tribes 
— Canary Islands — Cape Bajador — Porto Santo—Madeira — 
Cape Verd — Cape of Good Hope — De Gama — Columbus— 
East-Indies — America — Coast of Africa — Interior of Africa. 

THE readers of this Journal found the author 
of it, at the end of the last chapter,. cast a second 
time, with his shipmates in misfortune, upon the 
western coast of Africa, and upon that part of it 
where the wandering Arabs inhabit. He wishes 
to relieve himself, and his readers, from the con- 
tinued detail of human misery ; and thinks he 
cannot do it better than by giving, very briefly, 
what scanty historical and geographical infor- 
mation he can collect concerning this quarter oi 
the globe. 

Although Africa holds the third rank in point 
of size among the four great continents that con- 
stitute our globe, in a moral, political, and com- 
mercial point of view, it is decidedly inferior to 
them all. While the continents of Europe and 
America have been making rapid progress in 
civilization, the arts and sciences, Asia may be 
said to have been, for the most part, stationary, 
and Africa retrograding. While the arts that 
conduce to the comfort of man, and the sciences 
that expand and elevate his mind, have, in the 
former, been advanced almost to perfection ; in 
many parts of the latter, the same degree of bar- 
barism prevails now, as prevailed at the birth 



ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 39 

of our Saviour. Indeed, for a considerable time 
before the Christian aera, the Persians, Medes, 
and Romans, had large and beautiful settlements 
upon the Niger, and in different parts of the 
African continent. But upon the subversion of 
the Roman empire, in the fifth century, when 
the northern hive broke loose, and was precipi- 
tated upon Europe, the Goths, Vandals, Franks, 
Ostrogoths, Visigoths, and other barbarous tribes, 
made a war of extermination against civilized 
man, and of destruction again&t all the produc- 
tions of the arts and sciences. The Vandals, 
always taking the lead in barbarity, passed from 
Spain into Africa, converted some of the most 
populous places in this continent to a barren 
wilderness, held uncontrolled dominion in all 
the north part of this continent for more than a 
century and were at last compelled to surren- 
der a country which they had thus ruined, to the 
Mahometan Arabs, or Moors, w r ho now, under 
different names, form the principal part of its 
population. 

This immense continent, which has so long 
been the theatre of suffering humanity, is bound- 
ed north by the Mediterranean sea, having Eu- 
rope on the north ; west by the Atlantic ocean, 
having America on the west ; south, by the 
southern ocean ; east, by the Indian ocean, the 
Red sea, and part of Asia*, to w r hich it is united 
by the Isthmus of Suez, about sixty miles in 
breadth. This immense peninsula in shape re- 
sembles a triangle ; its east and west sides be- 
ing very irregular. From Cape Bona, on the 
Mediterranean, to the Cape of Good Hope, on 



40 



ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 



the southern ocean, it comprehends seventy de- 
grees of latitude, or about 4875 miles ; and from 
Cape Verd 17° 33' W. long, to Cape Guardafui, 
51° 20' E. long, it is something more than 4790 
miles. 

It is within the knowledge of every historian, 
that the present nations of Europe owe their 
origin to some one of the barbarous nations who 
overturned the Roman empire, about the middle 
of the fifth century. Breaking forth in myriads 
from the frozen regions of Scandinavia, where 
they had become inured to every hardship and 
privation, and pouring their countless legions 
upon the fertile, highly cultivated and delight- 
ful countries, bordering upon the Mediterranean, 
they lost the ardor of conquest, and the thirst 
for discoveries. The Ostrogoths and Visigoths, 
took to themselves the beautiful regions of Italy 
and Naples. The Gauls and Franks possessed 
themselves of France. The Moors, who came 
from the east, established themselves in Spain 
and Portugal. The Saxons overran the exten- 
sive German empire, i&cluding Prussia and Po- 
land. This, the most brave, magnanimous and 
warlike of the northern clans, afterwards passed 
over to England. From them Americans mav 
trace their origin. They continue to be brave 
and magnanimous, and, when necessary, can be 
warlike. 

Although many of these tribes inhabited coun- 
tries but a short distance from the continent of 
Africa, yet so completely had they destroyed 
every vestige of the arts and sciences, and with 
them so effectually checked the progressing 



ROBBINS' JOURNAL 4] 

knowledge of navigation, commencing the pe- 
riod which has been denominated the " dark 
ages," that this continent for a long period of 
time, remained to them, and to the rest of the 
world, almost unknown. At length the mari- 
ner's compass was invented; and about the mid- 
dle of the fourteenth century, (1344) the Canary 
islands, near the w r estern coast of Africa were 
discovered, and, by the Pope, erected into a 
kingdom, and bestowed upon a royal Castilian, 
The ardor for penetrating unexplored regions 
revived ; and the fifteenth century may be call- 
ed the age' of discovery. The Portuguese led 
the van in the path of navigating glory. An ar- 
mament was fitted out by John I. of Portugal to 
attack the Moors, who had possessed themselves 
of the Barbary coast in Africa. The vessels 
that were sent forward to explore, proceeded as 
far as Cape Bajador, the dreadful place where 
Capt. Riley and his crew met their fate. This 
was 160 miles beyond the voyages of former 
navigators. The dreadful breakers, dashing 
upon the impending cliffs near that Cape, de 
terred them from approaching the coast, and 
they returned. Henry, son of John I. soon after 
fitted out a vessel, and entrusted the command 
to two gentlemen of his own household. Timi- 
dity made them merely coasters ; but a gale of 
wind drove them out to sea, and they acciden- 
tally discovered Porto Santo. The next year, 
he sent out three vessels to take possession of 
that island, and from that they discovered a 
fixed spot in the horizon ; and upon approach- 
ing it, thev found it to be the island of Madeira, 



42 



ROB BINS' JOURNAL. 



so well known to our countrymen. Soon after, 
the dreaded Cape Bajador was doubled ; and 
in a few years after they discovered the river 
Senegal, and the coast from Cape Blanco to 
Cape Verd, and, in 1446, the Cape de Verd 
islands. The equinoctial line was soon after 
passed ; and Benin, Congo and Guinea, were 
discovered in succession. The Portuguese mo- 
narch, animated to enthusiasm by this success,, 
and thinking there must be a southern termina- 
tion to the African continent, despatched Bar- 
tholomey Diaz to find it. He accomplished the 
object ; but dared not approach the threatening 
promontory, which he named Cabo Tormentoso, 
or Stormy Cape. But the king, knowing that 
he had found a passage to India, gave it the 
name of the Cape of Good Hope. Towards the 
close of this century, (15th) he despatched a 
nobleman by the name of Vasquez de Gama, to 
double this Cape, and if possible proceed to In- 
dia. He accomplished this great object, and 
landed in India the 22d of May, 1498, and re- 
turned to Lisbon the 14th of September, 1499, 
about seven years after Columbus had disco- 
vered the continent of America. 

The coast of Africa had now been thoroughly 
explored, while the interior was known only by 
the barbarians who inhabited it ; to the geo- 
grapher, it was nothing but a vastly extended 
blank ; and it remained so until near the close 
of the 18th century. The reason for this may 
probably be found in the fact that all the great 
enterprises, set on foot for the discovery of un- 
known regions, have generally proceeded from 



ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 43 

a desire to accumulate wealth, or augment pow- 
er ; and the accumulation of the one is general- 
ly an augmentation of the other. The unpro- 
mising appearance of the coast of Africa afforded 
but little encouragement to the ambition of mo- 
narchs, or the cupidity of merchants. To this 
it may be added, that De Garna, by discovering 
a passage to India round the Cape of Good 
Hope, had unfolded to European merchants the 
inexhaustible stores of wealth embosomed in 
that quarter of the globe. Columbus at the 
same time discovered a New World. The mines 
of Potosi and Peru were beginning to pour forth 
their rich contents into the coffers of European 
monarchs, and to stimulate the avarice of Euro- 
pean merchants. To these, as the leading causes, 
may probably be imputed the ignorance in which 
the world remains of the interior of the conti- 
nent of Africa to this day. 

We have, to be sure, a few books of travels in 
this continent. But they are the productions of 
individuals, whose romantic desire to obtain in- 
formation led them to encounter every hazard, 
and surmount every danger. We can hardly 
expect a correct delineation of a country, or a 
description of its inhabitants, institutions, man- 
ners, and customs, by a solitary wanderer, who 
is every moment in danger of death. Surely, 
that head is poorly calculated to treasure up 
facts and detail them to the world, which is lia- 
ble every hour to be taken from the shoulders. 
The travels of Vaillant, of Norden, and of Bruce, 
and what little of Park's is published, have been 
carefully examined by the writer of this Journal, 



44 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 

with a view of enriching it with interesting ex- 
tracts therefrom. But the design is relinquish- 
ed, as they give us no information concerning 
the wandering Arabs, or of the immense desert 
of Zahara which comprehends a great propor- 
tion of the interior of North Africa. It may here 
be remarked, that we can expect correct infor- 
mation of this desert and of the Arabs, from none 
but European or American slaves. The travel- 
ler, who is in pursuit of this knowledge, is in 
hourly danger of death or slavery. The slave 
is safe in the hands of his master. With him he 
traverses the desert ; with him he reposes in a 
tent. Having leisure, he can record in safety 
the peculiarities of this peculiar people. If he 
becomes a slave to a settled resident in some of 
the towns, he can describe that, and the cus- 
toms of the people. The author of this Journal 
was in both these situations, and hopes to give 
a correct account of this part of Africa, or that 
part of it which he saw. 

But I cannot omit to incorporate into this work 
some portion of the doings of an " Association 
for promoting the discovery of the interior parts of 
Africa" This association w r as formed in Eng- 
land by a number of gentlemen of rank and 
learning, in the year 1788. The first adven- 
turer that entered into its service, and proceed- 
ed upon a tour of discovery in Africa, was one 
of our own countrymen by the name of Led- 
yard. 

The daring enterprise of Americans has been 
known to the world, and by the world applaud- 
ed, ever since Englishmen became known by 



ROBBINS 9 JOURNAL. 45 

that name. Although the Portuguese first be- 
gan the business of discovery, it was left for 
Americans and Englishmen to complete it; and 
from what they have already accomplished, it 
may be rationally expected, that the ardent spi- 
rit of discovery will not subside so long as an 
ocean or sea remains untraversed, or any por- 
tion of the earth continues unexplored. Our 
countryman, the indefatigable Ledyard, had 
been long engaged in traversing unknown seas, 
and exploring unknown countries, without the 
aid of governments, or the assistance of private 
munificence. He became known to this asso- 
ciation, was adopted as their agent, and employ- 
ed to accomplish their splendid objects. The 
readers of this volume will be better gratified 
by an account of this American, from the doings 
of this association, than from the imperfect man- 
ner in which it would be given by the writer ; 
it is, therefore, presented in their own lan- 
guage:— 

" Scarcely was this society instituted, when 
two gentlemen were engaged in the advance- 
ment of these schemes of discovery, whose ta- 
lents and courage eminently qualified them for 
such an arduous service. One of them named 
Ledyard, by birth an American, feeling from his 
earliest youth an irresistible desire to explore 
those regions of the globe, which were undisco- 
vered, or imperfectly known, had passed seve- 
ral years among the Indians in America, study- 
ing their manners and habits, and had thus 
learned how to recommend himself to the favor 
and protection of savages. He had acoompa- 



46 BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 

nied Capt. Cook in his voyage round the world, j 
descending to the humble situation of corporal 
of marines, rather than forego an opportunity so 
inviting to his inquisitive and adventurous spi- 
rit. He next resolved to traverse the continent 
of America, from the north-west coast which 
Cook had partly explored , to the eastern coast, 
with which he himself was already perfectly fa- 
miliar. Disappointed in his intention of sailing 
in a voyage of commercial adventure to Nootka 
Sound, he crossed the British Channel to Os- 
tend, with only ten guineas in his purse ; de- 
termined to travel over land to Kamschatka, 
whence the passage is short to the western 
coast of America. When he came to the 
Gulf of Bothnia, he attempted to cross it on 
the ice, that he might reach Kamschatka by the 
shortest way ; but finding that the water was 
not frozen in the middle, he returned to Stock- 
holm ; travelled northward into the arctic cir- 
cle ; and passing round the head of the gulf, 
descended on its eastern side to Petersburgh. 
There his extraordinary appearance attracted 
general notice. Without stockings or shoes, and 
too poor to provide himself with either, he was 
invited to dine with the Portuguese Ambassa- 
dor, who supplied him with twenty guineas on 
the credit of Sir Joseph Banks, and through his 
interest he obtained permission to accompany 
a detachment of stores which was to be sent to 
Yakutz, for the use of Mr Billings, an English- 
man, who was entrusted with the schemes ol 
northern discovers in which Uie Empress was 
then engaged. 



KOBBINS* J Of J HiNMfi 

* From Yakutz, wbiclj is jsj< uate J in Siberia 
0000 miles east of Petersburg, he proceeded 
to Oczakow, on the Kamschatkan sea ; but as 
the navigation was completely obstructed by the 
ice, he returned to Yakutz, intending to wait for 
the conclusion of the w r inter. Here, in conse- 
quence of some unaccountable suspicion, he was 
seized in the name of the Empress by two Rus- 
sian soldiers, who conveyed him, in the depth 
of winter, through the north of Tartary, to the 
frontier of the Polish dominions ; assuring him 
at their departure, that if he returned to Russia 
he should certainly be hanged ; but if he chose 
to return to England, they wished him a plea- 
sant journey. Poor, forlorn, and friendless, co- 
vered with rags, and exhausted by hardships, 
disease, and misery, he proceeded to Konigs- 
burg, where the interest of Sir Joseph Banks 
enabled him to procure the sum of five guineas, 
by means of w hich he arrived in England. He 
waited immediately on Sir Joseph, who, know- 
ing his disposition, informed him that he could 
recommend him to an adventure as perilous as 
that from which he had just returned, and com- 
municated to him the views of the association 
for discovering the inland countries of Africa. 

Ledyard entered with enthusiasm into an 
enterprise which he had already projected for 
himself ; and receiving from Sir Joseph a letter 
of introduction to one of the members of the 
committee appointed to direct the business, and 
promote the object of the association, he went 
to him without delay. The description w T hich 
that gentleman has given of their first interview 



48 



BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 



strongly marks the character of this hardy tra 
veller. " Before I had learned," says he, " from 
the note, the name and business of my visiter, 1 
was struck with the manliness of his person, the 
breadth of his chest, the openness of his coun- 
tenance, and the inquietude of his eye. I spread 
the map of Africa before him, and tracing a line 
from Cairo to Sennaar, and from thence west- 
ward in the latitude and supposed direction of 
the Niger, I told him that was the route by 
which I was anxious that Africa might, if possi- 
ble, be explored. He said he should think him- 
self singularly fortunate to be entrusted with the 
adventure. I asked him when he would set out? 
To-morrow morning, was his answer." From 
such zeal, decision, and intrepidity, the society 
naturally formed the most sanguine expecta- 
tions. 

"Mr. Ledyard sailed from London on the 30th 
of June, 1788, and in thirty-six days, seven of 
which were spent in Paris and two at Marseilles, 
arrived in the city of Alexandria ; and having 
there assumed the dress, and been instructed 
in the manners requisite for an Egyptian travel- 
ler, proceeded to Cairo, which he reached on 
the 19th day of August. Ledyard travelled with 
peculiar advantages. Endowed with an origi- 
nal and comprehensive genius, he beheld with 
interest, and described with energy, the scenes 
and objects around him; and by comparing 
them with what he had seen in other regions oi 
the globe, he was enabled to give his narrative 
ail the varied effect of contrast and resemblance. 
His remarks on lower Egypt, had that country 



ROBINS' JOURNAL. 49 

been less generally known, might have ranked 
with the most valuable of geographical records; 
and greatly heightened the opinion which his 
employers already entertained of his singular 
qualifications for the task which he had under- 
taken. Nor was his residence in Cairo altoge- 
ther useless to the association. By visiting the 
slave markets, and by conversing with the Iclabs, 
or travelling merchants of the caravans, he ob- 
tained, without any expense, a better idea of the 
people of Africa, of its trade, of the position of 
places, the nature of the country, and the man- 
ner of travelling, than he could, by any other 
means, have acquired : and the communications 
on these subjects, which he transmitted to Eng- 
land, interesting and instructing as they were, 
afforded the society the most gratifying proofs 
of the ardent spiri t of inquiry, the unwearied at- 
tention, the persevering research and the labo- 
rious, indefatigable, anxious zeal with which 
their author pursued the object of their mis- 
sion.'' 

This interesting and elegant account of our 
wonderful countryman is extracted from the 
w Proceedings of the African Association" Tor 1790. 
it is incorporated into this volume with the high- 
est pleasure, as it is an encomium, derived from 
our enemy, in favour of one of our native coun- 
trymen; from an enemy too, who have always 
used the small arms of the pen, and the artillery 
of the press, to diminish American genius — 
American courage — and American greatness. ^ 

This indefatigable association continued their 
laudable exertions. Mr. Lucas sailed for the 



50 



KOBJ3INS' JOURNAL. 



African continent in October, the same year 
with Ledyard. In 1790, Major Houghton was 
employed in the same enterprise. In 1795, the 
celebrated Mungo Park began to explore the 
continent of Africa. Mr. Hernemann, a Ger- 
man, followed in 1797. 

We might extend this chapter by giving short 
biographical sketches of these celebrated ad- 
venturers, but we now return to our Journal ; — 
intending, in a future part of it, to give a brief 
^ographical view of Africa, embracing the prin- 
cipal places described by these travellers, and 
what may be gathered from other authentic 
sources. 



CHAP. V. 

Passage from Cape Barbas — mutual pledge — the coast — crossing 
precipice — projecting rock — zvatery cavern — view of Zahara 
— sleeping on hill — prayer — capture by Arabs, and separa- 
tion. 

AFTER having given our readers a com 
pressed historical account of Africa, derived 
from the most authentic sources, we now return 
to the melancholy Journal of individual suffer- 
ings in this quarter of the globe. They were 
endured by the author for about nineteen months, 
that is to say, from the 5th day of September, 
1815, when he landed from the boat near Cape 
Barbas, until the 8th day of April, 1817, — when 
the author left this quarter of the globe to return 
to America, that quarter of it in which he had 
his bii th. 



ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 51 

After we ran our boat ashore, as mentioned, 
north of Cape Barbas, our first object was to se- 
cure what provisions we had remaining. It had 
been many days since we ate bread ; the wreck 
of the brig having ruined the whole, excepting 
what we got ashore at Cape Bajador, and that 
was soon consumed. Our wine was also ex- 
hausted, the last bottle having been drank just be- 
fore we made our landing in the little sand beach 
among the rocks. We still had a little water, 
and some salt pork remaining ; but could not 
transport them, together with our clothing, when 
ascending and descending rocks, whose perpen- 
dicular position and ragged sides seemed to de- 
fy the approach of human footsteps. We knew 
the impossibility of doing this from a view of the 
precipices that surrounded us, — and we left all 
our clothing excepting what covered our bodies 
— cut from our pork all that was lean — buried 
and threw away every piece of money in our 
possession, at the suggestion of Capt. Riley. 
Most of us made small sacks out of the sail we 
had in the boat, with a pen-knife and some rope 
yarn. In these we deposited each of us a small 
quantity of fat pork and a porter bottle filled 
with water, it being all we had now remaining, 
excepting one extra bottle which we drank up- 
on starting on our uncertain and hazardous jour- 
ney. We now came to a solemn agreement to 
remain together as long as possible, and to ren- 
der to each other every kind office in our power. 
It was not merely common danger that made us 
friends ; we had become attached to each other 
by f *vious sufferings and mutual favors. As 



52 



BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 



we were doomed soon to be separated under 
circumstances the most painful to the human 
feelings, I must be indulged in naming the whole 
crew, James Riley, captain — George Williams, 
chief mate — Aaron R. Savage, second mate, all 
of Middletown; William Porter, James Barrett, 
and John Hogan, of Massachusetts, near Port- 
land ; Thomas Burns, of Lyme ; James Clarke, 
of Hartford ; and myself, seamen. Horace Sa- 
vage, cabin-boy, of Middletown ; and Richard 
Deslile, (man of colour) cook, of Hartford. Mr. 
Williams, Barrett, Hogan, Antonio, and Deslile, 
(called Dick) still remained unheard of, and pro- 
bably are either starved, assassinated, or remain 
in bondage, from which the rest of us, heaven 
be praised, have escaped. 

On the 6th of Sept. we started, scarcely know- 
ing what object we had in view. We resolved, 
however, to follow the coast, hoping to espy 
some sail at sea — hoping to find water — hoping 
to reach the wreck — and hoping to find some- 
thing more in it to sustain life a little longer ; 
having at the same time no expectation of seeing 
either of those hopes realized ; and in this we 
were not disappointed ; we were defeated in all 
of them. 

Porter and myself usually kept forward, some- 
times seeing our companions in the rear, and 
sometimes they were hidden from us by project- 
ing rocks. It is impossible for a stranger to this 
dreadful coast to conceive of the danger and 
fatigue we endured in this journey. Occasion- 
ally we found a short distance of beach on which 
we could walk without difficulty ; we were then 



ROBBIES' JOURNAL. 53 

opposed by rocks projecting into the sea, upon 
which a surf was constantly beating. We had 
to w r ait for the surf to retire, and then clamber 
over the rock. For many rods w r e were obliged 
to ascend upon the broken cliffs of the rocks, 
the surge beating upon the base of them below 
in a manner calculated to make despair take the 
place of hope. During this day, we came to a 
narrow projection from the almost perpendicu- 
lar rock, for nearly thirty rods in length; not 
much wider than a stone step. It was our only 
passage. It was as much as fifty feet above the 
surf below, and rising as many as five hundred 
feet above our heads. He must be something 
more or less than man, who could pass this track 
with unconcern. Porter and I being far ahead, 
found a small passage into the rock, where we 
could remain with safety, and we waited till the 
rest came up. The w ater had w orn a hole in- 
to the rock, nearly in shape of a common kettle, 
which was filled with warm w r ater. We bathed 
our heads in it which greatly refreshed us. We 
were soon joined by our whole party, who did 
the same, with the same effect. We continued 
to grope our way along the rocks until dark, 
when we came to a projecting one, around which 
we had to wade, or swim through the surf. We 
then ascended a cliff, and to our great joy, found 
a place w r here we could repose. It ought to be 
here mentioned, that all the w r ay we saw 7 fresh 
dung, and tracks of animals, and during the night 
heard their howling; but we neither of us this 
day or night saw r any animal. We lay down to 
rest with our clothes soaked, after eating a little 

E 2 



54 



BOBBINS 5 JOURNAL. 



raw pork and quenching our thirst with a sip of 
water, Notwithstanding our constant and un- 
wearied exertions, we could not have travelled 
more than five miles during the whole of this 
day, judging from the objects in our rear which 
we had passed, and a harder day's travel was 
never made by man. 

On the morning of the 7th of September, we 
found ourselves stiffened and almost unable to 
move from having slept the preceding night, 
which was chilly, in the open air, with wet 
clothes. In the morning we partook of the only 
food in our possession- — cutting a thin slice of 
raw pork from what remained, and water enough 
only to wet our mouths. With this little nour- 
ishment, and with our debilitated bodies, we be- 
gan our second day's journey. The difficulty of 
travelling was not diminished, but rather in- 
creased. We shortly came to a rock which pro- 
jected a great distance over the sea. The water 
had worn under it from fifty to sixty feet; and the 
cliffs that had broken from the rock above, lay, in 
great masses, in the surf below. It seemed to us 
impossible to pass ; but we resolved to attempt 
the dreadful passage. We let ourselves down 
from rock to rock until we reached those lying in 
the surf, and clinging to the one upon which we 
alighted, the dreadful surf broke over us with 
all its violence. As the sea went out, we snatch- 
ed the opportunity to pass a short distance over 
these craggy rocks, tearing our bodies in a ter- 
rible manner. In this way we travelled, from 
rock to rock, and through surf after surf, I should 
judge half a mile ; in performing which we were 



ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 55 

as many as three hours. At length the party all 
came up, and we reached the sand beach which 
we had before seen ahead. Had it not been at 
low water, we could not have passed at all. For 
most of this distance, the water had worn under 
the rocks, as near as we could judge, from sixty 
to eighty feet, presenting to view a cavern, from 
whose frightful aspect the heart recoiled with 
horror. In this passage we found and ate a few 
salt muscles, which, although they afforded some 
nourishment, very much increased our thirst. 
Vs e also saw a large leopard ; the first live ani- 
mal we had seen on the African coast, excepting 
the camels, at Cape Bajador, where our calami- 
ties commenced. It was about 10 o'clock when 
we reached the beach. We immediately began 
to dig for water, and having no implements to 
do it with, we used our hands, scraping the sand 
into our hats and throwing it to the top of the 
well. Capt. Riley went in pursuit of a passage 
to the world above the rocks, if, by good for- 
tune, he could find one, and we continued to 
dig. without the least effect, in various places 
for water. Capt. Riley gave us a gloomy ac- 
count on his return, and his gloom was increas- 
ed when he found that we had obtained no wa- 
ter. We all once more started, and at the end 
of the beach, it being about noon, we were com- 
pletely exhausted. Nature could do no more — 
we stretched ourselves upon the beach — under 
a shelving rock guarding us from the rays of the 
sun. i; Sleep, balmy sleep — nature's fond nurse, 
sweet restorer," came to our relief; we repos- 
ed, and our " senses were steeped in forgetful- 



ra ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 

ness," for two hours. I will not attempt to de- 
scribe my feelings at the time! awoke, for it could 
hardly be said that I had any feelings. I had 
become so inured to misery, that she had adopt- 
ed me as her child, and I felt no disposition to 
avoid her embrace. I knew I had done all I 
could to rescue myself and assist my compa- 
nions in escaping from the army of calamities 
that surrounded us. This seemed to be a com- 
mon sentiment among us. 

Capt. Riley, in his pursuit of a passage over 
the rocks, had discovered that there was a beach 
for some ways ahead, and proposed that we 
should make one effort more to find our way to 
the land above, through this hitherto inaccessi- 
ble precipice. With one accord we acceded 
to the proposition, and were once more on the 
march. We soon began to ascend, crawling up- 
on our hands and knees, catching hold of every 
substance that would assist us in dragging our 
bodies forward. It was next to dragging our- 
selves to the scaffold — it was like becoming our 
own executioners. We at length ascended the 
top of the precipice, and, O merciful Heaven ! 
what a prospect presented itself to our affright- 
ed view! what despondency sunk into our hearts! 
Had we been called to meet the dangers of the sea, 
or to fight the enemies of our country, we should, 
I know, like true American sailors, have encoun- 
tered them without dismay. But, after having 
encountered and overcome almost all the varie- 
ties of human misery ; after having rung all the 
changes of calamity ; then to be cast upon a bar- 
ren heath, a boundless plain, made up of burn- 



KOBBINS' JOUKNAL. 57 

ing sand and flinty stones, producing neither a 
green vegetable, or refreshing water ; there to 
be tarnished with hunger, devoured by wild 
beasts, or become slaves to the most merciless 
of creatures that wear the form of man, was sure- 
ly enough to appal the stoutest heart! It seem- 
ed as if death was about to overtake us ; and the 
outstretched plain before us seemed like the 
great Golgotha of the human race. Casting our 
eyes far to the southward, the plain, owing to 
the striking of the rays of the sun upon the dried 
sand, appeared like an immense lake. We even 
thought of going in pursuit of it ; but having so 
long been betrayed by the illusions of hope, this 
ignis fahms could not lead us. Some of us felt 
a disinclination to move at all. Hogan, at the 
mention of whose name I can hardly suppress a 
falling tear, however, the first one who ventur- 
ed upon the hawser as before mentioned, was 
asked what it was best to do? He answer- 
ed, with perfect apathy, " I don't know- — but 
what's the use of lying down to die as long 
as we can stand up and walk." The fortitude 
of a New-England sailor is certainly proverbial: 
but we are told that a continual dropping will 
wear away stones ; and as our bodies wasted, 
our courage was diminished. We moved off in 
a body, keeping in with the coast ; and as we 
wandered near the edge of the precipice, we 
were almost dizzied by the immense distance to 
the roaring surge at the base, which continually 
beat and wasted its force upon this iron bound 
coast. We occasionally saw a wild dry plant 
resembling a wild parsnip, or fennel stalk, which 



58 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 

we dug up out of the hard baked earth with 
sharp stones and the knives we had with us. It 
afforded hut little nourishment to us, and from 
the appearance of the earth around them, they 
had he*en sought after and ate by wild beasts, 
their tracks being visible around their roots. 
We saw large heaps of muscle shells, and the 
appearance of a former fire where they probably 
had been roasted by the natives. Thus far, in 
this day's travel, we had found but little sand, the 
surface of the earth being chiefly covered with 
sharp stones. But towards night, coming to a 
more sandy ground, we discovered the tracks 
of a camel and those of a large human foot, tra- 
velling to the northward. These tracks appear- 
ed to be recently made ; indeed they must have 
been, as the blowing of the dry sand would soon 
have filled them up. This circumstance con- 
vinced us that we were at no great distance 
from some of the natives j and however terrible 
was the reflection, we now felt anxious to fall in 
with them, for we were famishing and thirsting 
to death. We still had a few drops of water 
remaining, with which we moistened our mouths, 
after sitting down near the precipice, where we 
enjoyed a cool breeze. After travelling a little 
farther, we discovered a sandy beach ; the pre- 
cipice suddenly diminishing and falling back 
from the shore. We intended, if possible, to 
make this beach, and there to spend the night. 
It now became dark; and after travelling about 
an hour we discovered the light of a fire at a 
considerable distance ahead. This discovery 
excited in our bosoms the mingled emotions of 



RQBBLNS' JOURNAL. 59 

joy and tear- joy, that we might obtain some- 
thing to satisfy the hunger that gnawed upon 
</ur frames, and quench the thirst which was 
parching us to powder — fear, that this relief 
would forever take from us the freedom which 
we enjoyed with our misery. We descended, 
with great difficulty, about halfway down to the 
beach, and upon a steep side-hill, surrounded 
by cragged rocks, we laid down upon the burn- 
ing sand, after having scraped off the surface of 
it to make a cooler bed, and also a guard to 
prevent us from sliding down the hill. Here 
we slept until morning; and upon awaking, 
found ourselves chilled by the cold air and the 
dews which prevail here in the nighf season, 
notwithstanding the heat of the days. 

The 8th of September had now come, a day 
memorable in the calender of our crew ; for 
upon this day we lost the exalted character of 
freemen, and became the most degraded of 
slaves. 

About sun-rise we were all assembled upon 
the sand bank upon which we had slept, and in 
a united manner, joined Mr. Savage (if I right- 
ly recollect) in prayer. Standing uncovered 
upon the declivity of the hill, with the boundless 
ocean roaring on one side, and the immense de- 
sert stretching out on the other, we poured out 
our souls to that God who made them, implo- 
ring His protection and support in whatever situ- 
ation w r e might be placed, in whatever scenes 
we might be called to act, and in whatever suf- 
ferings we might be compelled to endure. We 
then mutually pledged ourselves to each other, 



GO BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 

that, as we should undoubtedly very soon be en- 
slaved by the Arabs, and probably separated 
from each other, we would use every means to 
effect our own and each other's release, that 
should fall in our power; that if we could, by 
any means, convey the intelligence of our situa- 
tion to any Christian power, we would avail our 
selves of the opportunity. We now descended 
the hill to the beach, and continued our course 
along the same to the northeast. After proceed- 
ing about tw r o miles, as I judged, and rising a 
small sand hill, we discovered at no great dis- 
tance a drove of camels. We came to a sudden 
stop, and upon consultation, some were for go- 
ing on, others for lying by. We concluded that 
this might be a caravan travelling to the north- 
ward ; and might assist us on. We continued 
to approach them ; and as we drew near, we 
concluded there must have been as many as se- 
venty or eighty of the natives. We were now 
first discovered by six or seven of them, who had 
wandered from the clan ; one of whom appear- 
ed to be a middle aged man, and who afterwards 
became Plogan's and Dick's master — the others 
were two women, the rest being children. As 
soon as they saw us, they run rapidly towards 
us. We immediately fell upon oar knees, and, 
by signs, begging the man, who was armed with 
a drawn scimitar, to spare our lives, and bestow 
upon us a little water. The first request he 
granted, but totally disregarded the second. 
The women, ten times more ferocious in appear- 
ance than the men, came up with the children, 
and with the greatest violence, stripped off all 



ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 



61 



our clothes excepting trowsers. Some of us, 
however, were stripped entirely naked, al- 
though they left me my trowsers. The man, in 
the mean time, was constantly brandishing his 
naked scimitar around our heads, and darting it 
towards our breasts, seeming impatient to see 
us bleeding. The whole clan now discovered 
us, and came rushing on with many of their ca- 
mels. The manner of their approach defies de- 
scription ; some were running on foot, armed 
with spears, some on camels, some with musk- 
ets, others with large clubs, others with scimi- 
tars, and all seemed anxious to be the first sha- 
rers in the plunder, when alas, they could find no 
plunder but our miserable bodies. As they came 
up, those who had possessed themselves of all 
our clothes, and of our persons also, began to 
throw sand into the air, and hooting somewhat 
like American savages. A contest now began 
among themselves, of which we were spectators, 
all contending for their right to us as slaves. 
After this contest was ended, in which no lives 
were lost, although much heathen blood was 
shed, we were all led towards the well ; each 
one of us having three or four Arabs hold of us, 
forcing us on, and each of them contending for 
his right to us, as his slave. We very soon reach- 
ed the well, around which were a number of ves- 
sels filled with water, in which the camels were 
drinking. They were made of the skin of the 
camel. The top of them was a circular hoop, 
to which the skin was sewed, and which rested 
on three legs. Between these legs, the skin 
hung down in the shape of a common basket, 

F 



62 



ROBB.LNS* JOURNAL. 



holding generally about twenty gallons, from 
which five or six camels drink at one time; it 
being supplied from the well until the camels 
are satisfied. As I came to the well, my mas- 
ters released me from their grasp. I immediate- 
ly plunged my head into the tub with the ca- 
mels, to satisfy my raging thirst, regardless of 
the vessel or of the kind of liquid I was drink- 
ing. The camels were frightened by their new 
companion, and began to retire ; the natives 
immediately drove me away, and restored to 
the camels, more humane than their masters, 
their previous right. During this time there 
seemed to be a contest among those who brought 
me to the well, the object which was to deter- 
mine to whom of right I belonged. They seized 
me three or four at a time, and pulled me one 
way and the other, with so much force, that I 
concluded they were about to settle the dispute 
by making an equal distribution of my body 
among them. During this scene, in which I was 
a passive actor, they kept constantly jabbering 
very loud and with great earnestness. At length 
one of them continued his hold, the rest having 
surrendered me to him; and he now became 
my sole master. His name was Ganus. He was 
about five feet eight inches in height ; large and 
raw boned, as is indeed the case with all the 
wandering Arabs, and about forty years of age. 
It had now become about eight o'clock in the 
morning. My master led me off to his camels 
stationed at a small distance, in the keeping of 
two young women, who afterwards proved to be 
his sisters. I here fell in with Mr. Savage, Mr 



ROBBJNS' JOURNAL. 63 

Williams, and Barrett, who were situated near 
by. They informed me that they had been fur- 
nished with a small supply of milk and water. 
The girls then gave me some milk and water, in 
a bowl, which I shared with my companions in 
misery. The camels having been sufficiently 
watered, and the goat skins having been filled, 
preparations were made for a departure from 
the well. 

CHAP. VI. 

Separation of the crew — taking leave — departure into the desert 
— mode of travelling — watei — goat skin — arrival at a tent — 
mode of making fire — cooking and eating — travelling upon 
Zahara — Mahomedan worship — clothing. 

September 8th, 1815. 

FROM this day I date my slavery among the 
Arabs, and my shipmates may also date theirs 
from the same time. We were now all in the 
possession of barbarian masters ; although it is 
impossible forme to tell precisely how the crew 
were distributed. Just before my master started, 
which w r as between nine and ten o'clock, A. M. 
I was permitted to take leave of Capt. Riley and 
all the crew, who were situated in different pla- 
ces around the well, excepting Mr. Williams and 
Barrett, who went off in company with me. As 
it is wholly impossible to describe the feelings 
of my bosom at this adieu, I will not attempt it. 
More poignantly distressing they could not have 
been, had I been about to leave this world for 
another. It left me in a state of horror and an- 
guish which J then thought I could not, but for 



64 



ROBBINS 5 JOURNAL. 



a short time, survive. I was mounted upon a ca- 
mel behind the hump, wholly destitute of cloth- 
ing excepting my trowsers, and compelled to 
steady myself by clinching the long hair upon 
the hump, which is generally from four to six 
inches in length. The back of the camel, from 
the hinder part of the protuberance upon it, 
commonly called the hump, is entirely smooth ; 
trie back bone extremely sharp, and the hip 
bones projecting but a very little from the rump, 
which slopes very steeply, so that it i^ utterly 
impossible to keep your seat without inclining 
the body far forward, and constantly holding on 
by the long hair. The camels commonly used 
for carrying baggage and passengers are from 
twenty to twenty-five hands in height ; and al- 
though in riding at full trot the naked body of 
the miserable slave who is compelled to ride, is 
excoriated and torn to pieces, a sudden fall from 
them would endanger his life. If he falls off* by 
accident, or voluntarily slips from his painful 
seat to relieve himself from excruciating torture, 
he is left in the rear, and is driven up to the par- 
ty who have gotten ahead, by the scimitar, the 
spear, or the club of his master. After travel- 
ling in this way for some miles, I began to won- 
der why 1 had not been sunk in the ocean, pre- 
cipitated from a rock, or in some sudden way 
been deprived of that life which now became a 
burthen to me. My body was naked, excepting 
my legs, under the almost vertical rays of the 
sun, being within the torrid zone, or tropic of 
Cancer, and my legs were constantly chafing and 
wearing away by constantly thumping upon the 



BOBBINS' JOUB^AL. 



hard hips of an hard trotting camel. Poor beast, 
thought I, we both have the same unfeeling mas- 
ter, and must both submit to the capricious ex- 
ercise of that power which absolute authority 
gives him, I almost imagined that the camel pi- 
tied me ; and should have come to this conclu- 
sion absolutely, had it not been from the prevail- 
in? sentiment that men possessed more humanity 
than brutes. How often are we in the habit of 
making mistakes! The Arab is not the only 
being, among those called rationed, whose dire 
fill cruelty would make even a tiger weep. 

After we had ascended the precipice, and had 
gone some distance upon the plain, my mastei 
left his camels, his baggage and me. in the keep- 
ing of the °;irls. and ioined the master of Mr. 
Williams and Barrett. Thev knew that we must 
have landed on this coast at no great distance off; 
and having asked me, by signs, where the boat 
or vessel lay in which we were wrecked. I satis- 
fied them by signs as well as I could. They now 
both started upon a long trot, a camel seldom 
galloping, and went in pursuit of the boat or 
wreck. My master had about twenty camels, 
and the master of Mr. Williams and Barrett 
about the same number, and Ave were now all 
joined in one party, in the keeping of the women 
belonging to the two parties. We now proceed- 
ed upon the plain towards the interior, in a S. E. 
direction, travelling at full speed. We were 
compelled to keep up with the party, and al- 
though riding in the manner before described 
was excessively painful, we were under the ne- 
cessity of enduring it, as we could not on foot 

F2 



66 



ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 



do this. We however, occasionally dismount- 
ed, and run a short distance on foot, to obtain a 
littie relief from our pain, occasioned by the hard 
trotting of the camels. At about 2 o'clock, two 
Arabs approached, with great speed, stole Mr. 
Williams and Barrett from their keepers, in spite 
of all their exertions to prevent it ; placed them 
behind upon their camels, and made off to the 
south; and, in a few minutes, were out of sight. 
I was now left alone ; no human creature to as- 
sociate with ; no bosom into which I could pour 
my own sorrows. My captain and shipmates 
were all dispersed, and in different hands ; and 
I was left, without any spectator of my distress- 
es, excepting the wretches who took delight in 
increasing them. The girls now stripped off 
my trowsers, and gave me, in exchange, a strip 
of old blanket, about eighteen inches wide, 
which I made fast around my middle with thorns. 
I begged for some water, which they gave me 
in an old hat, which I was, obliged to carry in 
my hand, out of sight of the camels, lest by 
wearing it, I should frighien them. We then 
started again; and, as the party slackened their 
pace a littie, I was enabled to keep up on foot. 
We continued in a S. E. direction; and after tra- 
velling about two hours, I had the first view of 
the Arabs 9 tents. We halted at about a quarter 
of a mile distance from them, and I soon saw a 
female coming towards us, who came out to 
meet the returning party. She seemed to ma- 
nifest a little feeling at my forlorn situation, and 
entreated the girls to give me a little water, 
which they did. She took hold of my hands, 



ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 67 

and examined them very intently, showing at the 
same time signs of wonder and curiosity. We 
then prosecuted our journey, some mounted on 
camels, and some on foot, till about five o'clock 
the sun appearing about an hour high. We now 
came near the tents belonging to the two mas- 
ters of our party, situated in a small valley. The 
surface of the ground consisted of hard baked 
earth filled with small, sharp, flinty stones, and 
occasionally of a small vein of sandy ground 
There was not a tree nor vegetable in sight ; and 
the earth had nothing verdant upon it, but a few 
small bushes thinly scattered, about two feet 
high. Upon these, the camels fed. They were 
distributed around the valley, and supported 
themselves by browsing upon these bushes. The 
camels loaded with water, which was contained 
in goat skins, were driven up to the tent, and 
unloaded. 

These skins, made to transport water from 
one part of the desert to the other, are fitted for 
this purpose by taking the skin whole from the 
goat. This is done, by cutting it around the 
neck; then by thrusting in the hand, it is taken 
whole from the animal to the end of its legs. 
The holes, at the end of the legs, are made fast, 
by tying an overhand knot with the skin of the 
legs. The Arabs have a kind of root which, 
dried and pounded, they apply to the inside of 
the skin, which cures and tans it, sufficiently to 
become a water vessel ; leaving the hair on the 
outside in its natural state. The neck of the 
skin, into which they pour the water, is made 
water-tight by lashing a cord around it, which 



68 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 

is also made fast to the skin of one of the fore 
legs ; and in this way they keep the neck of the 
skin in a perpendicular position, while the body 
of it lies along-side of the camel horizontally ; 
being made fast to the saddle by a cord extend- 
ing from each leg. The camel is sometimes 
loaded with four of these skins, two upon each 
side. These skins are sometimes used for the 
transportation of milk, taken from the camel, al- 
though those used for this purpose are more 
thoroughly tanned, and the hair wholly taken 
off! 

Before we arrived at the tents, my master's 
wife and three children came out about half a 
mile to meet us. They welcomed the return of 
the party, by enclosing their hands in those of 
the returning, and also throwingtheir arms about 
their necks and kissing them. The old lady 
wore a face that seemed to have something of 
humanity in it She took my hand, and letting it 
go, put hers to her own mouth, motioning to me 
to do the same, with my own, which I did. The 
little children, by their signs, wished me to kiss 
their hands, which I did. They all manifested 
a kind of pleasure in having a slave in their fa- 
mily, to serve them, and more probably because 
they hoped to make a sum of money by the sale 
of me. I was then conducted to the tent ; and 
after resting awhile, was sent out with one of the 
girls, who had a kind of hatchet in her hand, 
for what purpose I could not tell. I how- 
ever soon learned it was to cut bushes for fuel. 
After she had cut a few of them to instruct me, 
she handed the hatchet to me and bade me cut 



ROBBINS 3 JOURNAL. 69 

or dig them out of the ground. After gathering 
and carrying three handfuis to the tent, I was 
told it was sufficient, and was bade, by signs, to 
sit down. They then dug a small hole in the 
ground in front of the tent, and struck fire with 
a flint and steel upon a kind of dried weed, 
which served for tinder. After the weed had 
taken tire, they gathered up a quantity of dried 
camel's dung, which is always to be found around 
an Arab's tent, and after rubbing it in their 
hands, placed it upon the burning weed, and 
blowing it. it soon set the dung on tire. They 
then put on a few dried sticks, and, as soon as 
they began to blaze, they were placed in the 
bottom of the hole. This is the universal me- 
thod of building a fire among this people. They 
then gathered some small stones and threw into 
the fire ; commanding me to cut a small slice 
from the pork which they found in my sack, and 
the same being cut into small pieces, it was put 
into a small wooden bowl. They then, with two 
sticks, took from the fire in the hole the heated 
stones and dropped them into the bowl among 
the pork, which I kept from burning by stirring 
it round. It was very much for my benefit that 
my mistress was a Mahometan, for she would not 
publicly eat pork herself, although she dispensed 
so far with the articles of her faith, as to permit 
her children to partake with me of this unholy 
food. Before I began my supper, however, she 
made me pour my pork, fat and all, into my hat, 
as they will never permit a Christian to conta- 
minate their vessels by eating or drinking in 
them ; and I have often been deprived of a 



70 



ROBBINS 9 JOURNAL 



draught of water, because no vessel but theirs 
could be found to contain it. They commanded 
me to preserve part of this mess until next morn- 
ing, as I could have no more food until the next 
evening. Cooking, however, is an uncommon 
duty among the Arabs, as they seldom have any 
thing to cook, living almost wholly upon the milk 
of the camel, which they sometimes warm with 
heated stones. Indeed, were it not for the ca- 
mel, the immense desert of Zahara, sometimes 
called Zaara, and Saharah, must be wholly de- 
serted by human beings. From the peculiar na- 
ture of the earners feet, being somewhat of the 
nature of a pufF-ball, and yielding to the smallest 
pressure, tiny are enabled to endure the sharp 
stones, and also to travel in the deep sand. By 
these animals, the Arabs are enabled to traverse 
the desert, and to transport their plunder, their 
persons, and their slaves, from one part of it to 
another. The country, producing no vegetable 
food of any consequence, the natives are enabled 
to sustain life by the milk of these animals and 
their meat when slain. Why they are permit- 
ted to live at all, as they do nothing to add to 
the common stock of human enjoyment, but ev- 
ery thing in their power to diminish it, is a ques- 
tion which neither the dim light of nature, nor 
the imperfect reason of man can solve. At about 
eleven o'clock at night, the usual time of milk- 
ing the camels, I had perhaps a pint of milk 
mixed with a pint of water, which is the usual 
quantity afforded a slave. The reason for milk- 
ing the camels near ihe middle of the night is, 
to let their milk cool, which is always much 



ROBBINS 5 JOURNAL. 



71 



heated by the exercise of the animal, and the 
burning sun of the preceding day. They suf- 
fered me to sleep upon the sand at one corner 
of the tent. In the course of the night my master 
Ganus returned from seeking after the boat. To 
me, it was next to a miracle, that he could have 
reached the boat, and have taken therefrom ar- 
ticles which I knew we left there, in this short 
space of time. But afterwards, on seeing Porter, 
he told me that the next day after my master 
descended, he went down to the boat himself 
with his master. That the camels and an Arab 
would descend a precipice with ease, which an 
European or American could hardly pass with- 
out endangering his life. My master brought a 
bag of rice which we had left near the boat, the 
same being ruined by the salt water, and having 
turned as green as verdigris : he also brought 
some lean pork, which we could not carry with 
us upon the precipice ; a part of a boat sail, 
pieces of ropes, and, what reminded me of our 
brig and my country, the colours of the brig. 

September 9th. — This w r as the second day of 
my slavery. The family of my master consisted 
of himself, his wife, and two girls, and a boy ; the 
oldest about twelve. His mother and his two 
sisters, before mentioned, lived in a tent near by, 
and both seemed to constitute but one family. 
I now furnished myself with a long string, having 
no means to keep the day of the week, or of the 
month, the month itself, or even the year; and 
every day 1 tied a knot in it to keep my reckon- 
ing and have it correct. The family of my mas- 
ter could not be reckoned among the rich Arabs ; 



72 



ROBBINS' JOURNAL, 



he and ftis mother having between them but two 
small tents, and but about twenty camels, young 
and old. At this time they milked but three, 
which produced but about six quarts of milk 
daily. This served for the support of the whole, 
being eight in number, besides myself; and my 
proportion of milk was of course the smallest in 
quantity, being sometimes not more than one 
pint, mixed with the same quantity of water, for 
twenty-four hours. They generally preserved a 
part of the milk they got in the night, in a goat 
skin, for the next day at noon ; depending upon 
the small quantity they obtained in the morning 
for breakfast, of which I was sometimes deprived 
of any part. # 

The first thing the family do upon rising, which 
is invariably at day-break, is to go to Sulk, or 
prayer. This they perform with great apparent 
solemnity. They begin this worship by pulling 
off what few camel-skin slippers are among 
them ; then kneeling to the earth, rubbing sand 
upon their hands, arms and faces, a number ol 
times. In whatever attitude, during this duty, 
whether standing, sitting, or kneeling, their faces 
are always turned to the east. The ceremony 
of rubbing their hands, arms and faces, with 
sand, is a symbol of ablution, or cleansing, a? 
they have no water to perform this with. After 
this is done they stand up very erect, facing to 
the east ; each repeating exclamations o<r ori- 
sons, in a manner so very peculiar, that it is 
almost impossible for a foreigner to spell the 
words made use of, however familiar he may be- 
come with the pronunciation of them. It is equally 



BOBBINS 1 JOURNAL 73 

difficult to obtain from them the precise meaning 
of the words used ; as there is a kind of peculiar 
mystery in their language, as well as a peculiar 
solemnity in their deportment when worshipping. 
For nineteen months I was in the habit of wit- 
nessing the worship of the xYrabs, in families and 
in larger bodies, generally four times in a day, 
and hearing the exclamations they made ; and 
will attempt to enter down a few of their most 
frequently repeated expressions. Looking to- 
wards the east, they exclaim — " Sheda cl la lalu 
Hi. AUali A — Sheda Jlahommed Rah sool Allah F* 
They then throw their outspread hands forward, 
exclaiming Allah Hooakibar (" Great God.") 
They then kneel down upon the earth, and, sup- 
porting their bodies with their hands, kiss the 
earth ; and as they kiss it, exclaim again, Allah 
Hooakibar; then rising erect, repeat the same 
expressions. They now, with a low and solemn 
tone of voice, casting their eyes occasionally to- 
wards heaven, repeat over a prayer from one to 
two minutes in length. From having afterwards 
learned the meaning of many of the expressions 
jiade use of in these prayers, I feel fully author- 
ized to say that they return thanks for the favors 
received : for the food they eat ; for the clothes 
they wear. They most earnestly pray for rain when 
the earth is dry; and for sufficient food for their 
camels. They pray for abundance of plunder, 
and that they may take numerous slaves. That 
the Great God would destroy their enemies and 
protect them; that he would keep their children 
alive, and bless all their possessions. In the 
course of these prayers, they frequently mention- 



74 BOBBINS' JOUKNAL. 

cd the name of Moolay Solimaan. During the 
repetition of this prayer, they stand perfectly 
erect. After the conclusion of it, they again ex- 
claim, loudly, Allah Hooakibar, and again kiss the 
earth, in the manner described, two or three 
times, at each time repeating Allah Hooakibar f 
They then sit down upon the earth, and each re- 
peats over to himself, probably some part of the 
Koran. During this, they hold in their hands, 
the most of them, a string of beads upon which 
they cast their eyes as though offering to them 
the most profound adoration. These beads they 
count over, stopping as they come to some par- 
ticular one. They sometimes wear them upon 
their arms, and frequently carry them in their 
hands as they are walking or sitting. They close 
this ceremony by repeating the words, Sulk 
Mulla. 

This is a description of family worship. When 
a larger number are together, the worship is 
conducted by arranging themselves in a single 
line, one of the oldest stepping out in front, and 
being the only speaker. They, however, all re 
peat with him, Allah Hooakibar, and following 
his motions, bow to the earth and kiss it. When 
a family have closed their morning worship, they 
proceed to suckle the young camels, the bag of 
the old one being always secured from them, by 
a kind of basket made of a species of grass found 
in some of the northern parts of the deserts, 
which the women fasten over them. They then 
milk the remainder into a bowl, which is but a 
trifle, and divide and drink it The camels, un- 
less they are to travel, are then sent off to feed 



ROBBINS* JOURNAL. 7ft ■ 

upon the small shrubs or bushes already men- 
tioned, being always in the care of some one of 
the family. My master remained in his tent 
through this day. Having obtained two pair of 
shoes, he gave one pair to me, they being part 
of the plunder they took from the crew the day 
before. He restored to me my trowsers, which 
his sisters the day before had torn from me, 
having cut them off at the knee, saying, all be- 
low the knee was foonta — i. e. good for nothing. 
He also gave me part of our boat sail, which his 
son fancied, and took from me, giving me a 
patched skin in exchange, which, tied in front, 
hangs over the back part of the body, covering 
it nearly as low as the knee. The family spent 
part of the day in examining their plunder, 
and I slept under the tent a considerable portion 
of it. I ate a little of my pork, with the milk al- 
lowed me for my supper, and nothing occurred 
until next morning. 

CHAP. VII. 

Meeting with part of the crew — -preparations for a journey — 
tent— furniture — -man-saddle— female do. — loading tent and 
furniture — gazelle — Mr. Williams and Barrett — Christian and 
Mahommedan religion — separation — mode of spinning and 
weaving — of making a tent — of pitching it — scrupulous re- 
gard to worship. 

ON the 10th of September, 1815, at about 9 
o'clock, A. M. my master took me with him, on 
foot, about five miles, where we came to a num- 
ber of tents. No one can judge of my surprise, 
when I saw Capt. Riley, Clarke, Burns, and I think 



•76 BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 

Horace, sitting near one of the tents. Although 
the interview with my shipmates was wholly un- 
expected ; although it produced the most de 
lightful feelings, they were mingled with the 
melancholy reflection, that it could be but short, 
and probably would be the last. We spent 
nearly half a day together ; and while we were 
in sad conference upon the subject of our fate, 
the Arabs, about twenty in number, were hold- 
ing a council. These they frequently hold, but 
in a very confused and irregular manner, having 
no one in particular to preside over their deli- 
berations. Not at that time knowing any of thei r 
language, I could not tell, from that or from any 
signs, what was the subject under consultation ; 
but I judged it was relative to the mode of dis- 
posing of us, their slaves, as Capt. Riley was tell- 
ing them, by counting stones, how many dollars 
he would give for our ransom, if we could be 
carried to Morocco, or, as the Arabs call that 
country, Marocksh. Capt. Riley seemed to feel 
some hopes that we might yet get released, and 
advised us all to keep up good spirits. I took a 
painful leave of them, and, at about 3 P. M. re- 
turned with my master to his tent I was sent to 
gather wood for the night. The family built a 
fire, and cooked some of the damaged rice which 
was brought from the boat, by heated stones. 
This they did by putting a small quantity of rice, 
mixed with water, into a bowl; then throwing 
in the hot stones and covering it over, it became 
a kind of pudding, which they divided among 
themselves, leaving what little adhered to the 
stones for my share, which I was obliged to 



ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 77 

scrape from them with my teeth. This, with a 
little piece of lean, salt pork, whichnvas cooked 
by the embers of fire mixed with sand, a little 
water, and, at 11 o'clock, a few drops of milk, 
made up my supper. 

On the 11th, for the first time, I witnessed the 
manner in which the Arabs prepare for a jour- 
ney. Tt may here be remarked, that they have 
no particular places appropriated to particular 
individuals. They pitch their tents in any un- 
occupied place ; and when they strike them, 
they leave the place of their temporary abode, 
to the next occupant. They begin, by taking 
all their furniture, from the inside of the tent, 
which consists of two or three wooden bowls 
(geddacks) which they procure from the Moors; 
about the same number of water goat skins, 
(giUabar) and a small milk goat skin, (s'cow) 
both of which have been before described ; a 
small axe, (gaddo) — a tent knife, made perhaps 
of an iron hoop, (sekeeri) — a sleeping mat for the 
family, (Jassaia) — a patch-work skin (Jurrowd) 
to cover them, and sometimes a few spinning 
implements, with which they spin camel's hair. 
They all have a kind of female saddle of which 
no idea can be formed by an American without 
a description ; and it is almost impossible to 
give an accurate idea of it by the most minute 
description. It is made by two crotches, not 
unlike the forward part of our saddle trees. 
One of these settles on to the back bone of the 
camel, forward of the hump, and the other back 
cf it. From these, are extended two poles about 
four feet in length, and near the ends they are 



78 



ROBBINS* JOURNAL. 



made fast to the two crotches which are padded 
inside to prtevent them chafing the camel's back. 
Upon the top of these two poles, is placed a 
camel's hide, the outer edge of which is sewed 
to a rim rising about eight inches above the 
poles, making a sort of oblong basket, about 
three feet in length, and two in width, placed 
crosswise upon the back of the camel, and made 
fast to the poles. A girth is made fast to each 
of these poles either by buqkles, which they 
can seldom procure, or a knot, passing under 
the belly of the camel. Another girth or rope 
passes from the hinder part under the tail of the 
camel, somewhat like our cruppers. Another 
one extends from the forward part around the 
breast of the beast, somewhat in the manner of 
our breast girths. From each corner of this bas- 
ket is raised a pole, meeting in the centre of it, 
and made fast at the top, over which they throw 
a blanket, a skin, a piece of sail, or whatever 
they have suitable for this purpose, to preserve 
their bodies from the rays of the burning sun. 
Into these, the mother generally places herself 
in the centre, having a child on each side to 
keep this saddle properly balanced. They also 
have a saddle which is placed upon the forward 
part of the hump for the owner, or a man to ride 
upon. This has a saddle-tree forward, which 
is padded inside, and goes on to the camel's 
shoulder bones, very near the neck, rising eight 
inches above the seat, which is circular, hollow- 
ed in the middle, and from the outer edge a 
piece of raw camel's hide is drawn over it 
Around the whole of this circular seat, except- 



ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 79 

mg where it is made fast to the tree, a small 
thick pad is fastened, a stud extending from 
each side of the circle, and resting upon the 
pad to support it. This saddle is made fast by 
a girth passing just back of the fore legs. The 
rider seats himself, and crosses his legs upon the 
descending part of the camel's neck. This is a 
description of the saddles generally in use, al- 
though others vary in some trifling respect. They 
now strike their tent, and take therefrom all its 
long and short poles. These, with all the rest 
of the articles described, excepting the saddles, 
water and milk skins, they roll up in the tent, by 
putting part in one end of it, which is folded up 
in shape of a piece of cloth of different lengths. 
They roll up each end of the tent, each hav- 
ing a long tent poll in it, together with other ar- 
ticles, so divided as to make a balance. These 
poles are lashed together fore-and-aft upon the 
top of the camel, resting upon the centre of the 
hump. This is made fast to the animal by a 
rope extending over the top of it and around the 
body. Another rope passes from it under the 
tail, and another round the breast. All this pre- 
paration is made in half an hour, and often in 
less time. The tent and its contents are gene- 
rally put upon a camel that is driven, although 
he is sometimes ridden. 

We started this day at sun two hours high. I 
shall hereafter be less particular in stating the 
hour of the day upon which any event took place, 
unless it is a very interesting one. Indeed, time 
was of but little consequence to me, as I had no* 
thing to interest me but the peculiar habits, man- 



80 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 

ners, and customs of the Arabs, the immense de- 
serts through which I was passing in almost ev- 
ery direction, and the distresses I there endured. 

This day we travelled moderately, alternately 
on foot, and mounted on camels. As we came 
to spots where bushes were thinly scattered, the 
camels were permitted to feed, as is generally 
the case. In the course of the day we saw great 
numbers of animals which the natives called 
Gazelle. Their appearance was very similar 
to that of a deer, although they were of a small- 
er size. They were extremely gaunt and had 
long legs. Although' they leaped and skipped 
about with great activity, they manifested but 
little fear upon our approach ; and continued to 
browse at a short distance from us. I have seen 
them frequently upon different parts of the Za- 
hara desert ; but I never saw the natives take 
any of them, although I have often seen their 
skins, and was at this time wearing part of one. 
I afterwards learned from the natives, that they 
were taken at a particular season of the year, 
probably on account of their condition as to flesh 
and hair, the latter of which is exceedingly beau- 
tiful ; surpassing, in this respect, any animal 1 
ever saw in America. We halted, towards night, 
amidst a small flat of bushes, more flourishing 
than any I had before seen, in sight of a number 
of tents. It is not generally the custom, when 
on a journey, to pitch tents very near to each 
other, as each party requires a considerable ad- 
joining ground to feed their camels upon during 
the night. I reckon we travelled about twenty 
miles this dav, and> as I judged from the sun, in 



R0BB1NS' JOURNAL. 



81 



a S. E. direction. After pitching our tent, I was 
sent, as usual, to gather fuel for the night, then 
to the nearest tent to get fire, as this would save 
the trouble of striking one. In this tent I saw 
Air. Williams and Barrett, who were stolen as 
before mentioned. Their legal master had re- 
gained them, probably, after a severe contest, as 
a slave is the last piece of property an Arab will 
relinquish ; indeed, they are the only property 
except their camels, that is worth a contest. 
From what 1 could learn relative to their traffic, 
they would estimate a healthy slave, at the va- 
lue of ten full grown camels ; although as they 
approach near to a market for slaves, they rise 
in value. 

These miserable shipmates were almost en- 
tirely naked. The skin upon their backs was 
very much blistered. They informed me that 
they had suffered very severely from rapid tra- 
velling, and from want of food ; they still, how- 
ever, had a small quantity of pork which their 
master, in company with mine, had gotten from 
the boat, and which neither dared to eat. Like 
me, they derived some benefit from the religious 
tenets of their master ; and I think we might all 
say. without incurring the vengeance of Mahom- 
med, their prophet, that this was the only benefit 
we ever derived from the faith of a mussulman. it 
is almost impossible in this place, to avoid re- 
marking upon the different effect that the two 
systems introduced into our world by our divine 
Redeemer, and the impostor Mahommed, has 
upon the professors of these different systems. 
The religion introduced by the one teaches 



82 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 

" Peace on earth, and good will to men. To do 
to others as you would have others do to you.'' 
It teaches men to check the operations of pas- 
sion, and depraved nature, and to become pure 
in heart. That of the other promises the full 
gratification of every propensity. His paradise 
is a region of gluttony, drunkenness, and de- 
bauchery. The one teaches men to love their 
enemies — the other to destroy them. The one 
teaches us " to feed the hungry, and clothe the 
naked," — the other, to tear from the unfortunate 
being in their power, the last piece of raiment 
that guards him from the inclemency of the sea- 
sons, and to see, with perfect indifference, the 
famished slave die at their feet, when they be- 
come unfit for market. 

I could spend but few minutes, and have but 
few words with my unfortunate friends. I has- 
tened to my master's tent — built a fire — cooked 
a small slice of my pork, and, at the usual time, 
had my scanty portion of milk and water; and, 
in a corner of my master's tent, upon the sand, 
slept till day-light. 

September I2th. — This day we started early, 
and continued south easterly. I sometimes rode 
behind my master, by securing myself, as well 
as I could, by means of my skin and rope, upon 
the hump of the camel. We halted a few mi- 
nutes in the middle of the day, took a little milk 
and water, and the camels browsed upon the 
bushes. At about sun set we stopped for the 
night, having travelled, as I concluded, about 
fifty miles. Knowing the service I should be 
compelled to perform, I voluntarily set myself 



ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 83 

about it; procured a fire, fuel for it, assisted in 
unloading the camels, pitching the tent, &c. As 
it was in vain to resist the power of the unfeel- 
ing wretches, into whose hands fate had thrown 
me, I endeavoured to conciliate their favor, by 
performing, with apparent cheerfulness, all the 
irksome duties of a slave. 

13th. — This was a day of but little travel and 
considerable rest ; having stopped and pitched 
the tent about noon. An Arab's tent, folded up 
as before described, containing almost all the 
moveable estate of its owner, is taken from the 
camel — separated from its contents, and pitch- 
ed, ready to receive the furniture and the fami- 
ly, in fifteen minutes. The cloth, of which the 
tent is made, is w r ove of camel's hair, sheared 
from the hump and sides of this animal. Their 
mode of spinning this hair, which they prepare 
for doing by whipping it in the same manner 
Americans do oakum, is the most simple. They 
have no implement with which they twist this or 
any thing else ; seeming to have not the least 
idea of a wheel to facilitate motion. They hold 
a quantity of this hair in one hand, and with a 
spindle in the other, commence the operation. 
The spindle is nothing more than a small stick 
made sharp at one end, and about eight inches 
in length. This they make fast to the hair, and 
with the thumb and finger begin to twist. After 
drawing the thread to the length of the arm, they 
let the spindle hang down, and by having affixed 
to the lower end a considerable weight, and giv- 
ing it a twist with the thumb and finger, the 
weight below will turn the spindle sufficiently 



84 



ROB BINS JOURNAL. 



to twist a thread about three feet long. The 
thread is then wound round the lower end of the 
spindle, and in the same way they continue to 
draw out and wind up, thread after thread, un- 
til the spindle is idled, which they then wind off 
upon a ball. When they have made two balls, 
perhaps of the size of a twenty-four pound can- 
non shot, they twist two threads into one, in the 
above manner, after having w r ound them into a 
single ball. In this tedious and slow process 
they manufacture all their yarn for tent cloth. 
When they get a sufficient quantity of yarn to 
make one tent cloth, which is longer or shorter, 
according to the size of the tent they intend to 
make, they proceed to weave it. They make 
the cloth about three quarters of a yard wide ; 
and w r hen they are prepared to weave, they must 
halt long enough to weave the cloth through, as 
they have no other loom than that which is made 
by driving into the earth a number of pegs at 
each end of the web, equal to half the number 
of threads they put into the warp. Then by 
turning the yarn around each of those pegs at 
each end, and drawing it very tight, the w r arp is 
prepared to receive the filling. They have no 
idea of a reed, a harness, or a shuttle. They 
have a piece of hard wood, about three feet in 
length, about three inches in width, and about 
half an inch thick. This has a handle at one 
end, and is made pointed at the other, resem- 
bling a wooden sword. With the point of this 
instrument, they separate the threads of the 
warp, having half upon the upper side, and 
half upon the under side of it. Then, by 



BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 



85 



turning it up edge-wise, they make a space suf- 
ficiently large to pass through the filling, which 
is always done with the hand, either from a ball, 
or from a stick, upon which they sometimes wind 
it. After passing through a thread, it is beat up, 
by taking hold of each end of this wooden in- 
strument, and pulling it up two or three times 
with as much force as a female can conveniently 
exercise. I have been thus particular in describ- 
ing the mode of spinning and weaving, among 
the xArabs, to shew how stupidly ignorant this 
barbarous race of beings are, of the most simple 
arts of civilized life. The mode described is 
that in universal practice among the wandering; 
Arabs ; although at Wadhioon a mode some- 
what different is adopted. 

To make a tent for a family, the natives ge- 
nerally sew together from eight to twelve of the 
pieces of cloth manufactured as has been de- 
scribed. They are from twenty to thirty feet in 
length, and from eighteen to twenty-five feet in 
width. In the centre of this tent cloth, upon the 
inside, is sewed on a kind of socket, composed of 
the thrums of the camePs-hair yarn. When they 
pitch a tent, they insert into this socket, an ob- 
long block, rounded upon the top v and in the 
under side of which is made two mortises. To 
each tent, are two long poles of about twelve 
feet in length, and two short poles of four feet. 
Upon each corner, is a loop made of iron, wood, 
or rope, and strongly fastened to the tent cloth; 
and upon each side and end two; making twelve 
in the whole. To each of these loops is fasten- 
ed a tent-peg, about one foot in length, with a raw 

H 



86 



ROBBING JOURNAL. 



camelVhide rope, six or eight feet long. The 
first thing done in pitching a tent, is to spread 
the cloth flat upon the ground; then driving in- 
to the earth the twelve pegs. For this purpose, 
an Arab always carries with him a smooth round 
stone, lest he should come to a place where none 
could be found. In driving the pegs, the cloth 
is sufficiently slackened, to give it a proper 
height with the long poles ; and constant prac- 
tice almost invariably enables them to make a 
proper allowance for this. The next thing done, 
is to insert the upper end of the long poles, into 
the mortises in the central block. These poles 
stand one on each side of the tent. After the 
upper end is inserted, a sufficient number of wo- 
men (for the men are but spectators) are placed 
at the lower end of each pole ; and raising them 
at the same time, they place the end, which is 
sharpened, into the earth ; leaving them about 
eight feet apart at the bottom. This braces the 
tent, and prevents the wind from blowing it 
down. If this does not make the cloth suffi- 
ciently tight, it is made so by means of the ropes 
fastened to the loops and the pegs. This leaves 
the tent cloth about two feet above the ground. 
The entrance into the tent is made by the two 
short poles, beingenteredinto the two side loops, 
and standing perpendicularly. This entrance 
is about four feet high, and is always opposite 
to the wind ; for if the wind shifts before the 
tent is struck, these poles are shifted to the op- 
posite side. The space between the bottom of 
the tent cloth, and the earth, is generally closed 
upon the back-side and the ends, by means ol 



ROB BINS' JOURNAL. 87 

spare cloths which are fastened to the tent cloth, 
with iron or wooden pins, and to the earth, by 
laying stones or any other heavy substance upon 
the edgeof them. Thispreservesthepeoplewith- 
in the tent from the chilly easterly wind, which 
generally blows through the night season. Dur- 
ing the afternoon of this day, I remained an idle 
and uninterested spectator of the stupid con- 
duct, and beastly manners of the wretches with 
whom I was compelled to associate. But by this 
time I had learned that it was my best policy to 
conform to their whims, affect a cheerfulness 
which I could not feel, and submit to my fate 
without murmuring. Notwithstanding their dis- 
regard for every thing belonging to humanity, 
they were invariably punctual in worshipping 
w something whom they call God" Three or four 
times every day, let their engagements be what 
they might ; let their violations of common jus- 
tice be ever so enormous ; they suddenly pros- 
trate themselves upon the earth, exclaiming 
u Sheda el la lah. Hi Allah — Sheda Jtfahommed, 
Rahsool Allah — Allah Hooakibar!" — concluding 
with some part of the Koran, and, with the most 
solemn appearance and manner, exclaiming 
" Sidle Mullet" Happy may the wretched slave 
think himself, who, the next moment after this 
ceremony is ended, can feel safe from a stroke 
of the scimitar, the spear, or the club. 



KOBB1NS' JOURNAL. 



CHAP. VIII. 

I ainful travelling — salutations — Mr. Williams 9 situation — Bar- 
rett — rocks — Africans enslave each other— a wandering male 
Arab-female do. — American pork — Mr. Savage— interview 
with him — a rarity. 

September 14th, 1815. 
THIS was a day of rapid travelling, having 
started very early, and not having halted 'till 
about dark ; and I conclude we must have made 
as many as sixty miles. Our course was an 
easterly one, and no event of any consequence 
took place. I rode a considerable part of the 
day behind my master. To do this with the 
more ease, I took from my back my skin to se- 
cure myself from the sharp back of the camel. 
But while this preserved my seat and legs from 
being worn raw, my back was exposed to the 
almost vertical rays of a torrid sun, and the skin 
began to peal from my back from being blister- 
ed and parched. Judging from the course we 
had travelled from the place w here I was cap- 
tured, I conclude we must now have reached 
the 21st deg. N. latitude, the body of a tent, a 
camel, and a man, making but a very little shade, 
and that to the south, as it was now near the au- 
tumnal equinox. This night our tent was not 
pitched, being unloaded, but not unfolded. At 
the time of stopping, I discovered a number ot 
lights, from different tents. I learned from one 
of my master's sisters, whose name I had now 
found out was Muckwoola, that Mr. Williams and 
Barrett were in one of these tents. How she 



ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 89 

Knew this I cannot tell; but this I know, that the 
different parties of Arabs generally know the 
situation of each other, and the slaves they have 
in their possession. She accompanied me to the 
tent ; and on the way, said some things to me 
which I could not then understand. I found my 
shipmates near a large fire in front of a tent, it 
being pitched in a place where there were large 
dry thorn bushes. They were cooking some 
pork. Upon our shaking hands, the natives no- 
ticed it very particularly, laughing and sneering 
at our mode of salutation, at the same time go- 
ing through their own mode, which is, by placing 
the inside of the open hands together, then bring- 
ing it to the lips, touching them, and dropping 
the hand. I think I shall always prefer the mode 
handed down to us from our brave Saxon an- 
cestors, of clasping and squeezing the hand of a 
friend whom I love. 

Mr. Williams was considerably emaciated ; 
his body much blistered and .parched by the 
sun, and his, as well as the rest of our legs and 
feet, were much swollen, occasioned by the heat 
of the sun, and the irritation by thumping upon 
the almost bare bones of the camel. I can hard- 
ly, at this time, suppress the anguish I feel in re- 
membering this, which was the last interview I 
ever had with this worthy man and good sea- 
man. He had lost his fortitude by his misery ; 
and despaired of life. He mentioned his family 
in the most affectionate manner ; and continued 
to converse upon this interesting subject, until 
overwhelming grief forbade farther utterance. 

Although this was the last time I saw Mr Wil- 
li 2 



90 ROBBIN3' JOURNAL. 

Hams, I learned some time after, by Barrett, 
whom I saw at a fish place near Cape Mirik, that 
he had regained his health and flesh ; was liv- 
ing better ; had a very good man for a master, 
who was also his (Barrett's) master ; and I con- 
sole myself, and I think his friends may also con- 
sole themselves with the hope, that he may once 
more see his native country, and be blessed with 
the society of his friends. 

As to Barrett, he was at this time apparently 
less miserable than Mr. Williams. I took some 
fire from this tent, and returned to my master's. 
My pork still held out, as my Mahometan master 
would permit me to eat but little of it at a time ; 
and, thanks to his Mussulman faith, would eat 
none himself. 

On the 15th and 16th we prosecuted our jour- 
ney at a moderate rate. The general view of 
this part of the Zahara desert is a boundless 
plain terminated by the horizon, although in tra- 
velling over it, the traveller meets with gently 
rising sand hills, and shallow vallies. Some- 
times he sees a rock from which large pieces 
have fallen, in a very irregular shape, there 
seeming to be no seams or grain to this stone 
like most of the large bodies of rocks in New- 
England. These rocks are mostly covered with 
a whitish moss, similar to what is frequently 
seen upon the rocks in the District of Maine. 
This is sometimes eat by camels when no- 
thing else can be found. W e occasionally met 
with clusters of tents, and some standing singly. 
Many of the Arabs have muskets, for which 
they have the highest admiration ; seeming to 



ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 91 

esteem them next to their holy beads. The 
one they think will secure to them the favor 
of their prophet, and with the other they hope 
to procure or intimidate slaves, as they frequent- 
ly took deliberate aim at my breast, which I 
as often laid open, telling them to fire % being 
then almost indifferent, whether I was laid dead 
upon the desert, food for wild beasts, or com- 
pelled to traverse with men as wild and as fero- 
cious as the tigers or leopards that prowl over 
them also. They often put these muskets into 
my hands, asking me whether they wereFransah 
or Invlisis. I sometimes saw valuable double- 
barrelled muskets, which they probably either 
procured from the European settlement upon 
the Senegal, or took from a black slave, which 
perhaps he obtained in exchange for one of his 
countrymen. These Africans, of every name 
and feature and complexion, take delight in en- 
slaving each other; and although the slave trade, 
carried on by Christian merchants, on the coast 
of Africa, excites the just indignation of the 
Christian world, yet it can hardly be expected 
that an American, who has for months and years 
been enslaved by them, can feel so much com- 
passion towards a slave here as those do, who 
have always enjoyed the blessings of humanity 
and liberty. 

A description of the male wandering Arabs is: 
they are six feet in height generally; remarka- 
bly straight ; large-boned ; have very black, pe- 
netrating eyes ; black hair, until age makes it 
grey, but of different qualities ; some being soft 
and straight, and some coarse and bushy. Thev 



92 BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 

have high cheek bones ; noses that incline more 
to the aquiline than Roman ; thin lips ; beauti- 
ful white teeth, and very regular ; thick, black 
beards when in middle life, which hang down to 
the breast, increasing in length as they advance 
in years, which then become almost entirely 
white. When old, and some of them must be 
very aged, they have a gravity and solemnity of 
appearance which is seldom seen in Americans. 
The features of the men, unless when distorted 
by anger, or the prospect of plunder, are regu- 
lar, ar>d often display some marks that would 
induce a stranger to think that they belonged to 
the human family. 

I would gladly omit a description of the fe- 
male wandering Arabs ; but it will leave a chasm 
in the description of the natural curiosities of 
this country. They are somewhat higher in 
stature than the American women, and, like the 
Arab men, remarkably straight when young. 
Their cheek bones are high ; their eyes and 
hair similar to the men. Their teeth are also 
white ; but the two eye-teeth often turn out of 
the mouth like a tush. They endeavour to make 
them project as far as possible, to furnish a rest- 
ing place for the upper lip ; and they constantly 
stand, like two faithful centinels, to protect it 
from an assault from the under one. They ge- 
nerally carry their young upon their backs ; and 
their breasts, from constant exposure, and hav- 
ing no stays to support them, become relaxed, 
and hang down to such a length, that they can 
furnish the child upon their backs with food 
from these accommodating reservoirs, by thrust 



BOBBINS' JOURNAL.. 



* 93 



ing them under their arms ; the child, at the 
same time, hangs quartering upon the mother's 
back, and grabs them, one at a time, to draw 
therefrom the food they furnish it. Among the 
young women, how r ever, are many of very regu- 
lar and interesting features. They generally 
have very long hair, which they braid behind, 
and turn up to the back part of the head, and 
confine w 7 ith a kind of hoop placed upon the 
crown of the head, giving the back part of the 
head an elevation considerably above the fore- 
head. Upon the forehead and temples are a 
number of small braids of hair, to which is fas- 
tened a great variety of the most beautiful shells; 
and sometimes large rings, made of white stone. 
Over the whole of this apparatus is thrown a 
piece of blue cotton cloth, as a turban, conceal- 
ing the whole head and face, excepting the fore- 
head, the eyes, cheek bones, and nose ; the va- 
riety of shells hanging around the edge of it. 
They also ornament their wrists and ancles, with 
strings of black beads, and sometimes of small 
shells. Their covering is generally a single 
blanket or skin of different lengths, and put on 
in different ways, depending upon the wealth, 
the whim, or the necessity of the wearer. 

During these two days we were penetrating 
easterly into the interior. The reflection, that 
[ was departing farther and farther from every 
trace of civilization, imparted feelings of the most 
gloomy kind. We, however, travelled moder- 
ately ; advancing, perhaps, not more than sixty 
miles. I saw none of my shipmates, nor any 
other unfortunate slave. 



94 • BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 

September 17th. — We continued to travel in 
an easterly direction. I was reminded of my 
native land, and of the abundance of her bless- 
ings, by occasionally partaking of a little slice 
of pork which was there produced. It was a 
real comfort, notwithstanding it compelled me 
to draw a most disheartening parallel between 
my former situation, and the dismal prospects 
that then surrounded me. My master's water 
began to grow short ; and although I was parch 
ed without by the burning sun, and within by 
dreadful thirst, I could not, by the most humble 
and urgent entreaties, move the obdurate heart 
of my master to afford me a drop. Amidst the 
most melancholy reflections, I recognized Mr, 
Savage in company with two Arabs. This was 
the first time I had seen him since the com- 
mencement of our slavery. When I first saw 
him, he was in my rear. I slackened my walk, 
and he overtook me. My master's camels were 
travelling at a quick rate, which shortened my 
interview with him. He said he had neither 
seen or ate any food but milk and water, and 
that in very small quantities, since we first were 
separated. I lamented that I had not the small 
remains of my pork to divide with him, my mas- 
ter never suffering me to carry it myself. I has- 
tened with all my power to overtake the camels. 
The country had become more barren and 
sandy, and the heat of the sun increased. We 
at length found a few thorn bushes, which is the 
only tavern an Arab ever finds, and we put up. 

1 8th.- — Having found this place of refresh- 
ment, my master and his retinue were deter- 



ROBBING JOURNAL. 



95 



mined, I suppose, to eat it out before he quitted; 
and during the whole of this day, we laid by. 

19th. — For the four past nights, w r e had not 
pitched the tent ; and sleeping upon the sand 
in the open air, I found myself every morning 
moistened with the heavy dews, and almost stif- 
fened by the chilly air. It can easily be ima- 
gined what would be the sensations of a person, 
who, for a number of days, had been exposed 
to a scalding sun, and blistered with its rays ; 
deprived almost wholly of food and water; hunger 
gnawing him within, and the heated sand irritating 
his blistered body, and the dews and cold chills 
operating upon him at the same time. We start- 
ed early this morning at a moderate rate, and 
continued in an eastern course. At about 11 
o'clock, we came to ascending ground ; and the 
camels were halted w hile my master, having been 
joined by some other natives, went forw ard to 
make discoveries. The camels browsed; the 
women laid down to enjoy the sand beneath, 
and the sun above, and I wandered off to a small 
bush to enjoy a little shade, and, what my debi- 
litated and fatigued body greatly needed, a lit- 
tle rest. I fell into a kind of broken slumber 
and continued here, " Iwixt wake and sleep," 
until my master returned, I then discovered, to 
my very great joy, that they had unloaded the 
camels, and seemed to be making preparations 
to pitch the tent. I saw r a number of other tents 
at no great distance, and again fell into a sleep. 
1 slept till the middle of the afternoon, and was 
then awakened ; not by the hoarse and menac- 
ing voice of a barbarian, but by the mild, and 



96 BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 

cheering accents of a friend. It was Mr. Savage. 
To see him once more was a consolation that 
made me, for a moment, forget my misery ; it 
was doubly consolatory to see my friend not 
wholly destitute of resolution. He said he was 
in a state of absolute starvation ; and bestowed 
a string of the most bitter curses upon the inhu- 
man wretches who were starving him lo a ske- 
leton. We went to seek something from our 
mother earth, and found a few snails, which Mr. 
Savage took. Notwithstanding we had the most 
vindictive feelings towards our tormentors, we 
retired to our shade ; and after bewailing our 
hard fate, remembered that we had a Father in 
heaven, to whom we addressed a short prayer, 
and separated. I gathered wood for the night ; 
the tent was pitched, and my master allowed me 
a little of my pork, a small quantity of water, 
and a less quantity of milk for my supper. 

20th. — This was a day of repose. After hav- 
ing performed the usual ceremony of worship- 
ping, which, as I have before stated, is always 
the first service of the day, whether on a jour- 
ney or at rest, my master went ofl^ as usual, about 
the desert or to the neighbouring tents. The 
camels were sent off to feed, which were always 
watched by the children, this service never hav- 
ing yet been enjoined upon me. When the na- 
tives are stationary, the men are constantly vis- 
iting each other at their tents, and sometimes 
are assembled in considerable numbers around 
them. 

It ought to be remarked that the wandering 
Arabs consist of many distinct tribes, and not o* 



BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 97 

one general one, as is by some supposed. The 
tribe to which my first master belonged is called 
Wiled Lebdessebah. From what I afterwards 
learned, when in possession of ether tribes, I 
found that this was considered by all, as the 
poorest, most ferocious, and contemptible of the 
whole. They w r ander farther over the deserts, 
and have the most uncertain and casual subsist- 
ence. This accounts, in some degree, for the 
total w r ant of method or object which is percep- 
tible among them. They wander from day to 
day, seeming neither to know where they are 
going, nor w r hat they are going for. When as- 
sembled together, as mentioned, they jabber to- 
gether in confusion, for a while, and then for a 
while gaze at each other with unmeaning va- 
cancy. The women at the same time saunter in 
and around their tents, with but little employ, 
although all the labour that is done, is done by 
them. While our brutal masters were thus em- 
ployed, Mr. Savage and I, their w r retched slaves, 
again met at the tent of his master. I found 
him alone, pondering upon his fate. Upon my 
approaching him, he seemed to affect a degree 
of cheerfulness. We thought it no great crime 
to steal a little water from a goat skin, as we 
were nearly choaked. After this, Mr. Savage 
recollected that early in the morning a wen or 
sore had been cut out of one of his master's ca- 
mels ; and we concluded to cook and eat this 
excrescence that was taken from a beast, which 
itself is not more palatable than our horses. It 
Jay upon the sand in two pieces, and upon tak- 
ing it up, it appeared not unlike a shad-spawn, 



98 



BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 



and like that, was very tender. A little fire re* 
mained, mixed with sand, into which we put our 
delicious morsel, and before we had half roasted 
it, we saw Mi. Savage's mistress approaching, 
and ate it down, almost at a mouthful, knowing 
that this was the only method we could take to 
secure it from being taken from us. I spent a 
considerable part of the day with my friend, and 
towards evening returned to my master's tent. 

CHAP. IX. 

Origin of wandering Arabs— vegetables on the desert efZahara— 
gloomy prospect— roots — mails — water obtained — submission 
to fate — last meeting and last interview with Capt. Riley, Mr. 
Savage, Clarke, Burns, and Horace— situation upon the desert 
— valley — meeting with Porter. 

FROM reading most of the productions of 
travellers, and all the narratives and journals of 
slaves, readers have their indignation excited 
to the highest pitch against the degraded race 
of beings among whom the author of this Jour- 
nal was so unfortunate as to be enslaved. Be- 
fore we conclude, however, to exclude them 
from the human family ; before we denounce 
them as unworthy of the least consideration, as 
a part of human beings ; the candid inquirer af- 
ter truth will endeavour to trace their origin 
He will try to learn what has been their course 
of life ; what kind of government they have lived 
under, and what advantages they have enjoyed. 
It cannot be done in this little volume, which 
professes to tell what they are, and not what 



ROBBINS' JOURNAL,* 99 

they have been. It may be briefly remarked, 
however, that a general sentiment prevails 
among historians, that the Arabs are the de- 
scendants of Ishmael. In recurring to an au- 
thority which will not be doubted, we find that 
Ishmael was the son of Hagar, the handmaid of 
Sarai, Abram's wife ; that Hagar was an Egyp- 
tian ; that although Sarai, being childless her- 
self, consented that Abram should go in unto 
Hagar, yet, when she found that Hagar had con- 
ceived, her wrath was kindled. 44 And when Sa- 
rai dealt hardly ivith her, she fled from her face" 
(Gen. xvi. ch.) " And the angel of the Lord said 
unto her, Behold, thou art with child, and shalt bear 
a son, and shalt call his name Ishmael, because the 
Lord hath heard thy affliction. And he will be a wild 
man; his hand will be against every man, and every 
man's hand against him," &c. In chap. xxv. 
of Gen. we find it thus recorded : — 44 And these 
arc the names of the sons of Ishmael, by their names, 
according to their generations : The first born of 
Ishmael, JVebajoth, and Kedar, andAdbeel, and Mib- 
sam, and Mishma, and Dumah, and Jllassa, Hadar, 
and Tenia, and Jetur, and JVaphish, and Kedemah. 
These are the sons of Ishmael, and these are their 
names, by their towns, and by their castles ; twelve 
princes, according to their nations. And these are 
the years of the life of Ishmael, an hundred and thirty 
and seven years" 

Thus it appears, that these miserable crea- 
tures owe their origin to a despised mother. 
That she herself was a wanderer, and her son 
* 4 a wild man." The common chronology makes 
this tribe (or the descendants of Ishmael) 3995 



100 BOBBINS 5 JOURNAL 

years of age ; and the best historical authorities, 
called Profane History, in distinction from Sa- 
cred History, have always represented them as a 
despised, abused, degraded, and wandering race. 
They are now called wandering Arabs; and from 
many of their religious rites, they seem to have 
blended together some of 66 the law that came 
by Moses," with many of the ceremonies intro- 
duced by Mahommed. They circumcise their 
young according to the first — they worship the 
prophet according to the last. Their hands are 
literally against every man, and every man's hand 
against them — to this day. 

It is with " trembling solicitude," that the au 
thor of this Journal has attempted, very briefly, 
to trace the origin of a race of beings, whose ex- 
istence and modes of life, excite the wonder of 
an inquiring world. It was not done so much to 
impait information, as to excite inquiry. It was 
with the same view he attempted to give a brief 
historical account of Africa. To give a gloomy, 
monotonous diary of human sufferings would 
" pall upon the senses ;" he has, therefore, en- 
deavored to blend with it such accounts of this 
quarter of the globe, as he thought tended to il- 
lustrate the subject of his Journal. 

It was now the 21st September. We had no 
possible means to determine in what latitude we 
were situated; but the sun was to the northward 
of us, and of course, what little shadow any ob- 
ject made, it was cast to the south. The heat 
was excessive, and I could almost have envied 
the natives a tawny skin, that was made to en- 
dure it. To me it was distressing in the extreme. 



ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 101 

Although some of them seemed to pity me for 
the blistered and parched skin that slightly ad 
hered to my flesh ; yet their pity was mingled 
with contempt that Inglesis could bear no more. 
They glory in tearing every thing — hunger, 
thirst, fatigue, and every privation, and pro- 
nounce that being foonta, or good for nothing, 
who cannot endure with them. My masters wa- 
ter was nearly expended, and in the morning of 
this day, preparations were made to retrace the 
dismal desert over which we had before travel- 
led. We started early, and travelled nearly in 
a north east direction. The sun was my only 
compass by day, and the north star by night. 
We travelled rapidly through this day, and I 
watched, with the utmost care, to see ifl could 
recognize any object I saw as we went out; 
but I could not. At this time, almost all the par- 
ties were returning towards a well, and we were 
frequently in sight of different tents, some near 
to us, and some at such a distance, that the size 
of a camel seemed to be diminished to that of a 
small dog. It reminded me of a fleet of mer- 
chantmen, recently dispersed by a storm, and 
all endeavoring to make the same port. No sin- 
gular object presented itself, nor any event took 
place upon this day, worthy of description. 

On the 22d, travelled same course, and very 
rapidly. Our tents were this night pitched. Af- 
ter I had assisted in making the usual prepara- 
tions for the night, I cooked my remaining piece 
of pork, and as I was just about to enjoy the last 
piece of food of American growth, I was over- 
joyed to see my master enter his tent with Mr 



102 BOBBINS' JOURNAL* 

Savage. My mistress cooked a little rice, and 
handed it to me. Mr. Savage and I partook of 
this pork and rice together, by the consent of 
my master and mistress. I must confess I felt a 
glow of gratitude to him for conducting my friend 
to his tent, and to her, for enabling me to par- 
take of what we then deemed a rich repast. 
They familiarly called me Robbins, and Mr. Sa- 
vage they called Jlrrone. It is always the first 
object of an Arab to learn the name of a stran 
ger; and as they rarely have but one name 
themselves, they take either the given or sirname 
of a stranger, as best suits their whim, or their 
organs of speech. After learning the name, they 
ask if he is iono-good, or foonta, which has al 
ready been explained. Mr. Savage retired to 
his master's tent, and I to my bed of sand. 

The next day, (23d) we prosecuted our jour- 
ney, in company with eight or ten different fa- 
milies, making a large party. Mr. Savage's mas- 
ter bore to the northward, and I was separated 
from him. We travelled fast; our water being 
all expended, and we had no liquid or food ex- 
cept the milk of the camel, and that being a ve- 
ry small quantity for the number of the family, 
and my pork being expended, I suffered very 
severely. Toward night we stopped, and the 
women, as is always the case, sought for a suit- 
able place to pitch the tent, and pitched it. At 
night my master entered the tent. I inquired 
after Mr. Savage, and he told me he was but a 
little way to the northward, and that I should 
see him again the next day. 

Upon this day, (24th) the camels having fed 



BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 103 

but a little for two or three days, and the family 
having eat nothing but a very little milk, we 
rested after travelling a short distance. The 
camels browsed upon bushes, and the children 
went in pursuit of a small root, sometimes found 
in the shallow vallies. I also went in pursuit of 
the same myself, and found a small quantity. 
This root resembles a small white onion, and is 
about the size of a walnut. The stalk or stem 
of it is five or six inches high, growing generally 
in a single blade. There is but little nutriment 
in it. I alse found a vegetable that had the ap- 
pearance of a shepherd-sprout, which I saw the 
natives eat, and ventured to eat myself. It had 
a bitter taste. For two hours I sought for these 
roots and sprouts, and ate all I found, which 
were but few; but as I found any vegetable that 
was eatable in this ocean of burning sand, I 
snatched at it with the utmost avidity, and de- 
voured it with the keenest appetite. The men, 
during this time, had gone ahead. I was order- 
ed to drive the camels together, and we pro- 
ceeded on our journey, until about noon ; then 
rising a small hill, we discovered the men seat- 
ed in a small valley. They made the usual sign, 
of w r aving a blanket, for us to approach, with the 
camels, the tents, &c. loaded upon them. Upon 
our arrival, the camels were made to kneel, and 
were unloaded of every thing, except the neces- 
sary implements to procure water. The goat 
skins were made ready to contain water for the 
family, and the skin basket, or watering tub, for 
the camels to drink in. My master and his two 
sisters went off with the camels and their accou 



104 R0BBIN8 5 JOURNAL 

trements in search of a well, leaving me with 
the rest of the family. I now went forth a soli- 
tary wanderer, famishing with hunger, parching 
with thirst, and almost scorching to powder with 
the dreadful heat of the sun. The camels were 
gone, and no milk could be had until their re- 
turn ; and the length of time they would be ab- 
sent was unknown. Death seemed to stare me 
in the face ; and death, too, in the very worst 
shape. To fall in the field of battle — to be 
drowned in the ocean, or to die suddenly with 
a raging epidemic, is not half so terrible to the 
imagination, as that of a lingering death by star- 
vation. I found a few roots, and devoured them, 
and searching among the thorn bushes I once in 
a while discovered a snail, which I could obtain 
in no way, but by thrusting my naked arms 
through them, and by this I was lacerated and 
torn from my shoulders to my fingers' ends. I 
brought my snails to the tent, cooked some ot 
them for my supper, which I was compelled to 
divide with my mistress and the children, hav- 
ing neither milk nor water for themselves. 

On the 25th, I started, early in the morning, 
in pursuit of something to eat, being in a situa- 
tion that would make me readily devour any 
thing. Mj thirst led me to pursue the tracks oi 
the camels, as they had gone in pursuit of wa- 
ter. I found nothing but a few of the roots men 
tioned, which the natives call taloes, to satiate 
my hunger, and nothing but my own urine to 
quench my thirst. I wandered about until noon, 
found a few snails, and returned, roasting and 
despairing to the tent. Toward night I disco 



ROBBINS 1 JOURNAL 103 

vered my master approaching with the camels 
loaded with three goat skins of water, holding 
about eight gallons each. The sight of camels, 
although the most odious and deformed looking 
beasts in nature, had, by this time, become as 
cheering to my view as a sumptuous feast is to 
the eye of an epicure ; and well they might; for 
my very life itself depended upon them. To see 
them coming with milk in their bags, and water 
upon their backs, produced a tumultuous joy 
bordering upon delirium. On being unloaded, 
my bowl (for I was not allowed to contaminate 
that of a Mussulman) was filled with water, hold- 
ing two quarts. This I drank off at a draught 
without stopping, and almost without breathing. 
I had two motives for this, one to quench my 
thirst, the other to induce my master to give me 
more— my thirst was partially quenched, but no 
more water was to be had. I looked in vain 
among the Ishmaelitish daughters to find a ten- 
der hearted damsel, like Rebekah, who bade 
the servant of Abraham to drink, saying, " I will 
give thy camels drink also." 

I then proceeded to cook the few snails I had 
gathered in the gloomy morning that preceded 
this evening. This I did by pouring them into 
the sand at the bottom of the fire-hole, after hav - 
ing scraped away the coals, then covering them 
with hot sand, and building a fire upon the top, 
they were roasted in fifteen minutes. These I 
ate after my master had examined them, and fell 
asleep about sun set. I became very much dis- 
tressed, probably from the roots, vegetables, and 
snails I had been driven to live upon for some 



106 



BOBBINS' JOURNAL 



days past, and drinking too much water at once. 
My mistress, having warmed a little milk with 
heated stones, presented it to me, which I drank, 
and found much relief. It had now got to be 10 
o'clock at night, as I judged from the stars, when 
my master called me up, and asked me if I wish- 
ed to go and see Arrone, (Mr. Savage.) I answer- 
ed yes. He took me on the camel, and started 
off at a long trot to the northward. Being naked, 
excepting my shortened trowsers, the cold air was 
very painful : but as I knew my master, if he was 
so inclined, could afford me no relief, I made no 
complaint. We rode till one o'clock in the 
morning. The camel was then permitted to feed 
upon the diminutive shrubs, and I to sleep naked 
upon the sand. After sleeping about two hours, 
I was again mounted on the camel. I began to 
conjecture that my master was about to offer me 
for sale, and my conjectures soon became reality. 

September 26. — By my string, I found I had 
been eighteen days a slave to my master Ganus, 
and I must confess I did not then wish to run the 
risque of exchanging him for any other descend- 
ant of Ishmael that I had yet seen. But it was 
not for a slave to choose, to wish, or repine. I 
affected a total unconcern : and although I had 
but little of the lamb in my feelings toward the 
Arabs, I was determined to appear to be " pleased 
to the last;" and although I could not in Zahara 
" crop the flowery food," I had almost got my 
mind prepared " to lick the hand just rais'd to 
shed my blood." Hard indeed was this mental 
submission to a free-born son of New-England ; 
hard as the pain I endured in my body ; — but I 



ROBBINS' JOURNAL. l()7 

thought the philosophical advice of Hudibras 

to Ralpho was applicable to me at this time : 

w Ne'er be so dully desperate 

To join against yourself with fate." 

At about sun-rise I discovered a number of tents 
ahead, and as we came to one, I saw some ca- 
mel's meat. Delicious food! not much worse 
than that of an old horse ; how I longed to de- 
vour it ; but like Tantalus in the water, I was 
only aggravated by the sight of it, as I could not 
enjoy it. My master, however, begged some 
boiled blood for me, which I put into my hat, not 
knowing what it was. He bade me coo% i. e. eat. 
We again started, and at about eight o'clock 
came to a valley where we saw a number of ca- 
mels crossing and passing over a small sand hill. 
We followed them ; and on reaching another 
valley, I saw numerous tents. It looked like a 
great market for the sale of the sons of sorrow. 
On seeing an old woman, my master asked where 
the kellup en-sahrau (Christian dogs) were. She 
pointed to a hill to the eastward, and upon draw- 
ing near to it I saw the smoke of a fire, where 
they had been cooking camel's meat. I ran up 
to it, hoping either by begging, or stealing, to 
obtain a bite of it ; but 1 forgot my hunger, my 
thirst, my misery, and almost myself, upon dis- 
covering Capt. Riley, Mr. Savage, Clarke, Burns, 
and Horace. Something whispered to me that 
my deliverance was near, that the day of my re- 
demption had come. After exchanging the com- 
mon tokens of affection, with my beloved ship- 
mates, I learned from them, that they had been 
bought. Capt. Riley pointed to two Arabs, *d- 



iOB BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 

ling me that they had bought him, and those that 
were with him, and had agreed to carry them to 
the Sultan, (the Arabs call the emperor of Mo- 
rocco Sooltaun) where their redemption would 
be certain. He said Hogan, my friend, was with 
them the day before, and that he supposed the 
purchasers w ere waiting to take him also ; and 
that if they did not, he hoped to persuade them 
to purchase me. My heart was immediately swol- 
len with gratitude to my captain for his solici- 
tude and kindness to me, as miserable a son of 
Adam as walked upon the footstool of Deity. 1 
exchanged a little of my boiled blood with Ho- 
race, for a piece of gristly camel's meat, which 
I swallowed almost w r hole. At a small distance 
off, I saw my master talking very earnestly with 
the two Arabs who had purchased all my ship- 
mates just named. Hope lightened my heart 
and almost deprived me of reason. I almost saw 
my own country ; I almost felt the embraces of 
my friends ; although environed by the desert 
of Zahara, and held in bondage by barbarians. 
How soon was I dashed from the highest eleva- 
tion of hope, to the lowest dejection of despair! 
The two Arabs hastily took my shipmates one 
way, and my master carried me off another. 
Capt. Riley tried to console me ; but why 
" preach patience to those who wring under a 
load of sorrow 7 ?" My brother sailors will ex- 
cuse me, when I tell them that I burst into tears. 
I converted my eyes into two pumps, and in this 
way I was partially relieved from the bilge-water 
of sorrow which was about sinking my shattered 
vessel for ever. I considered my shipmates as 



ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 109 

safe, and in the event it proved to be so. While 

I rejoiced at their good fortune, I grieved, in the 
very depths of sorrow, at my own calamities. I 
might with the utmost propriety, exclaim, 44 How 
fortune deceives! /had pleasure in toio" — but now 1 
had it no longer. 44 My life, steered by misery's 
chart" — 1 was compelled to continue a captive 
among the most unfeeling, debased, and degrad- 
ed race of creatures on earth, the tribe, as I 
have before mentioned, which now held me a 
slave, being so. 

I separated from my shipmates about nine 
o'clock, A. M. and went with my master in pur- 
suit of his tent. The camel, being a male, I had 
no milk ; the goat skins being at the tent, I had 
no water ; and subsisted through the day upon 
my camel's blood, which I carried in my hat, ex- 
posing my bare head to the rays of the sun. The 
tent was removed, and we did not overtake it 
till dark, and not having it pitched that night, I 
slept in the open chilly air. 

Upon the 27th, we travelled E. S. E, as near 
as 1 could judge. By this time I had become 
acquainted with the meaning of some few of the 
words of the Arabs; and by means of these and 
signs, I asked my mistress why I was not sold ? 
Why they did not travel toward Morocco ? And 
many other questions. Her answer was, that 
they could not go until the rainy season sat in, 
which commences generally in January, or, at 
any rate, it did this year. She said they could 
not support their camels in the dry season, but 
still encouraged me with the hope that i should, 
some time or other, reach that empire. We 



110 



BOBBINS' JOURNAL* 



travelled, I conclude, in the course mentioned 
about fifteen miles, and then shifted it to about 
N. E. The country became more hilly than I 
had before seen it ; and after passing a number 
of small hills, we ascended one of considerable 
height. To the N. E. of it, I saw the largest and 
deepest valley I had before seen in this country. 
It ran from N. E. to S. W. and might have been 
eight or ten miles in length and two miles in 
width. I regret exceedingly that I cannot in- 
form my readers of the particular situation of 
the country I passed ; but as I then had no means 
to ascertain it, no maps, charts, or instruments, 
and could derive no information from the illiter- 
ate Arabs, I will not attempt it. I could judge 
of the latitude only from the situation of the sun, 
and as to longitude, I could judge of it from no- 
thing at all. We must now have been near the 
tropic of cancer, it being September, and the 
rays of the sun being nearly vertical. We en- 
tered this valley at the S. W. end of it, and pass- 
ed to the S. E. side of it, upon which I noticed a 
f lumber of very deep gullies, on almost the whole 
length of the hill, which must have been occa- 
sioned by heavy rains. The surface in the val- 
ley was composed of sand, gravel, and small 
round stones, which w r ere washed from the hill, 
the gullies having the same kind upon their sides. 
In one of these gullies, Ave saw two or three 
tents. The air was cooler here than it is gene- 
rally found to be, and I even imagined I saw 
some eppearance of comfort, and no one could 
need it more ; for having been deprived of all 
my remaining hopes in the morning, it appeared 



ROBBINS' JOURNAL, 1]] 

to me through the whole day that it must have 
been my last, for " hope was deferred," and " my 
whole heart was sick." They left the camels 
with me, and the whole family went to the tents. 

It is an universal custom among Arabs, whe:^ 
the master of one tent or any of his family visits 
another, to offer them whatever they have to eat 
or drink; the whole bill of fare, however, con- 
sisting of camel's meat, milk, and water. I saw 
my master and family drinking with them, and 
my thirst " almost persuaded me" to w r ish I was 
a Mahometan that I might have partaken with 
them. I was then ordered by signs, to drive the 
camels to the tents, and as I was approaching 
one, was met by a young Arab, who told me that 
there was an ensahrau (Christian) in one of the 
tents. The name of ensahrau was as dear to me 
as was the name of uncle Toby to a distressed 
soldier. I had not the most distant conception 
to what Christian nation he might belong, but it 
was enough to console me, that he w r as not a 
degenerate Mussulman. He was one of my 
shipmates — it was Porter! 1 came near rejoicing 
at his slavery, it gave me such joy to see him. 
With this worthy fellow, I had been particularly 
intimate ; and I think my shipmates will all say 
that we went hand in hand in performing our du- 
ty like faithful seamen. He appeared less de- 
jected than many of my shipmates whom I had 
before seen. His robust body and stout heart 
enabled him to bear any thing within the com- 
pass of human endurance. He had on the rem- 
nants of an old coat, and his trowsers down to 
his knees, the rest of them, like mine, having 



1 12 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 

been declared foonta. I informed him of the 
good fortune of Capt. Riley, Mr. Savage, Clarke, 
Burns, and Horace ; and the near fortune of Ho- 
gan. He then told me that Hogan and Dick 
were in the valley a bove, he having seen them the 
day before. My master hailed, Robbinis! and 1 
was obliged to end my interview, although it was 
the first I had enjoyed with this good friend since 
we were enslaved. We passed to the top of the 
hill through one of the gullies, and travelled up- 
on the top of it to near the upper end of the val- 
ley. Then discovering a number of tents, in the 
valley below, we descended through another dif- 
ficult gully, I conclude as many as three hundred 
feet, and reached them. Here we pitched our 
tents in sight of, perhaps, thirty or forty others. 
The camels were put to feed in the valley, and 
I furnished the necessary fuel for the night. My 
fatigue was excessive. After eating a little of 
my blood, (taken from the camel,) and having a 
scanty portion of milk divided out to me, I re- 
tired to a corner of the tent, and forgot myself 
and my miseries, in as sound a night's rest as 
ever a sailor enjoyed. 

CHAP. X. 

Sy mpathy — Hogan — his situation and feelings— received at the 
tent of Ganus — my mistress— fictitious ceremony— power of the 
female Arabs — gloomy valley — Dick — misery of black Afri- 
cans — Messrs. Wilberforce and Clarkson — American fag upon 
Zahara desert. 

September 28th, 1815. 
AS we progress in our volume, we feel a great 
4egree of solicitude lest the detail of individual 
suffering: should become tedious to our readers. 



ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 



113 



The world more readily sympathizes with the 
joyous than the sorrowing. The joys of the au- 
thor have been few, his sorrows have been nu- 
merous ; but he will endeavour to blend with 
the narration of them, such delineations of the 
country and descriptions of the peculiar man- 
ners, customs, and habits of the natives of Afri- 
ca, as have fallen under his immediate observa- 
tions, or been derived from the most authentic 
sources. 

This day we lay by. After the morning ser- 
vice was performed, and the camels milked, (the 
last service invariably following the first,) the ca- 
mels were sent with the boy to feed upon bush- 
es ; my master went to visit his neighbours ; the 
female children went in pursuit of roots and 
herbs ; the women lounged in the tents ; and I 
laid down under one to reflect or to sleep, just 
as reflection came to my sorrow, or sleep to my 
relief. After remaining here until about eleven 
o'clock, I saw my half-starved friend Hogan, 
lurking around the tents ; and, judging from the 
appearance of his mouth, and the rest of his di- 
minished bodv, I concluded that he had not 
" fared sumptuously every day" since we part- 
ed. This was the first time I had seen him since 
I parted with him on the 8th at the well. 1 
could hardly conceive that this sterling sailor, 
who first ventured to come from the wreck to the 
shore upon the hawser at Cape Bajador, on the 
28th of the preceding month, could so soon have 
lost his firmness and his hope. He appeared 
depressed, melancholy, and hopeless. He en- 
tered our tent. This was attended with consi 

K 2 



1 1 4 ROBBING JOURN AL. 

derable difficulty, as my mistress at first refused 
Mm admittance ; but upon informing her as well 
as I could, that he was almost naked, having 
nothing but a small skin and a piece of sail to 
wear, and almost melting in the sun, she gave 
him admission. We sat down together. Ho- 
gan's master was the first Arab that assailed us 
near Cape Barbas, where we first landed. Ho- 
gan informed me that his sufferings had been 
too much for a Christian to bear from such curs- 
ed barbarians ; that he had not been permitted 
to sleep under a tent since he was enslaved ; 
that he had been almost starved ever since he 
had been among them ; and that he expected to 
die soon unless he could escape. He told me 
that the two Arabs who bought Capt. Riley, 
bought him next, and paid for him ; and that a 
dispute arose between his master Mahomet, and 
Porter's master, who claimed half of him, and 
that his master had returned the price paid for 
him (Hogan) and still kept him as a slave. Ma- 
homet and Porter's master continued to quarrel 
about him ; had come to blows upon this sub- 
ject ; and the quarrel was not yet ended. Hav 
ing the most painful feelings upon Hogan's me- 
lancholy relation, I entreated my mistress to per- 
mit me to give him some of my camel's blood, to 
which she, with some reluctance, consented, and 
we ate the whole I had remaining, which was 
but little, relying upon the mercy of my tyrants 
for my future support. After we had eaten our 
Mood, my mistress, whom Hogan thought an 
angel of mercy in comparison to his, gave us a 
little milk and water. I did not altogether agree 



ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 115 

witn him about the angelic qualities of my mis- 
tress, knowing that my master had more of the 
virtues attributed to those celestial beings than 
what she had. I inquired of Hogan about Dick. 
He said he was a fellow-slave with him to Ma- 
homet, and fared much better as to living than 
he had ; although he was often beaten by his 
master, and compelled to attend camels from 
day-light till dark. Hogan tarried with me till 
towards night, and we agreed to go next day to 
procure something to eat, either by stealing from 
the tents, or gathering from the earth, if haply 
we could find any thing to steal or gather. I re- 
quested him to ask Dick to come and join us, 
but he said Dick would not be permitted to 
come. He went home ; and I did the customa- 
ry duties of a slave, and retired to all the rest 1 
could enjoy upon sand. 

Upon the 29th, early in the morning, my mas 
ter and his family went out before the tent to 
worship, and took me with them ; having for 
some days past expressed a wish that I should 
become a Mussulman, and no longer continue 
to be a kellup en-sahrau. I knew I might be a 
witness, and even a performer of their mode of 
worship, without becoming a proselyte to their 
faith ; indeed, I was compelled to go, from the 
fear of vengeance* if I refused. They were ar- 
ranged upon the sand, in front of the tent. My 
master Ganus bade me follow his motions. He 
kneeled down, and washed his hands, arms, and 
face in the sand. I did the same. He then rose 
up, facing to the east, and loudly exclaimed, 
" Sheda el la lah, Hi Allah — Shcda Mahommed — 



116 



BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 



Rahsool Allah" They generally add, " Hi eah- 
rah sullah—Hi eahrah sullah" This I also repeat- 
ed, having learned the pronunciation of it be- 
fore, although not the meaning. They then cried 
aloud " Allah HooakibarP I followed them in 
this likewise. They then fell upon their knees, 
and, upon rising, said again, " Allah Hooakibar." 
I continued to follow their example, as often as 
they repeated it. They then went through a 
catalogue of words, which I could not under- 
stand, and could not repeat. They concluded 
with a loud voice, " Sulle Mulla;" I said so too. 
They seemed to be highly pleased with my ap- 
parent conversion to the Mahometan faith. This 
was the first time I ever worshipped in the man- 
ner of a. Mahometan; and, lest I should be 
brought to make a ceremony of worship merely, 
I declined, as long as I remained in Africa, to 
Sulle in this way ; telling him that an en-sahrau* 
or Christian, had a different mode of praying. 

Soon after this ceremony (for it was nothing 
else) was through, Hogan came to my master's 
tent I took my sack, which 1 had made upon 
landing from the boat, and hung it upon my 
neck to put snails in, if we should find any. We 
passed over the hill lying to the eastward of us 
into an adjoining valley where we found a few 
snails. At noon, the heat became so intense, 
that we could not endure it. We returned to 
within a short distance of my master's tent, 
where we cooked what few we had gathered, by 
some fire procured from a tent near us. My 
master was dissatisfied that I did not bring the 
snails home, and divide with him and the family 



ROBBIES' JOURNAL. 



117 



Hogan came to the tent, and spent part of the 
afternoon with me. where we had a little milk 
and water allowed us. and toward night I ac- 
companied him to his master's tent 

Upon the 30th. I wandered round with Ho- 
gan, as I did the day before gathering snails and 
bewailing our fate. The natives, unless engaged 
in spinning and weaving, which is but seldom, 
are listless, inactive, and stupid. They have 
nothing that serves for pastime or amusement, un 
less it can be called recreation for females to comb 
and braid each other's hair, and divest it of the ver- 
min that generally colonize it. They do this and 
sleep alternately. The men visit each other at the 
tents, apparently without object ; although when 
a considerable number are assembled -they con- 
verse together with earnestness, and sometimes 
go through with the customary worship. When 
stationary, the men repair their saddles, goat- 
skins, and watering tubs. The women have the 
entire control of the tent; they make the cloths 
for it. they put them together, they pitch, and 
strike and repair it. They have all the manage- 
ment of what may be called domestic economy ; 
they apportion out the milk and the water, with 
the accuracy of a sergeant when making out ra- 
tions, among the master, the children and the 
slaves, and from their decision upon this subject, 
there is no appeal. 

October 1st. — Having added another day to 
the calendar of my captivity by making another 
knot in my string. I began to ponder with the 
most gloomy anticipations upon my future fate. 
As I have already mentioned, my pork was ex- 



118 



BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 



pended ; the country where we were now situ- 
ated was uncommonly barren even for the de- 
sert ; my master's camels afforded but a very 
small quantity of milk, and one of them had be- 
come entirely dry. The little portion allowed 
me was hardly sufficient to sustain life ; and my 
flesh began, moderately, to waste away. To see 
the gradual, although certain, approach of the 
king of terrors by the slow ravages of a con- 
sumption is indeed gloomy ; but, in the enjoy- 
ment of health, as I was at this time, and with 
an appetite as voracious as the tigers of the de- 
sert that I inhabited, to waste away and go 
down to the grave for the want of food, was too 
much for the small portion of philosophy impart- 
ed to me, to endure with fortitude. My own 
forebodings were rendered doubly aggravating 
at the situation of my shipmate Hogan, whose 
despair was as raging as his appetite. He call- 
ed again this day. Having but little encourage- 
ment to seek even for snails, we lurked around 
the tents in the gloomy valley, which seemed 
like the valley of the shadow of death. We 
found some of the old bones of a camel which 
had first been scraped by the Arabs, next by 
their dogs, and the remaining part fell into our 
hands. We gnawed off what little dry gristle 
was remaining, in doing which, I almost dislo- 
cated my jaws, and very much injured my teeth. 
At night we returned to our tents. 

October 2d. — As I was standing near my mas- 
ter's tent, I saw Dick the cook, descending from 
the hill where he had been placed to watch ca- 
mels. He came to the tent For the first time, 



ROBBING JOURNAL. 



119 



I saw him since the day of our slavery. He was 
esteemed by the crew as a faithful, active cook, 
and always did all the duty assigned him with 
promptitude. He looked pretty hearty, and had 
better clothing than Hogan. We had been to- 
gether but a few minutes before he was hailed 
by his mistress to return. Anxious to see me 
longer he did not immediately obey. She came 
after him, struck him on the head with her claws, 
and pulled him up the hill to the camels. His 
master immediately knocked him down, and be- 
gan beating him in the most unmerciful manner 
with clubs. The poor fellow hallooed and 
screamed aloud. Never did 1 mqre ardently 
pant to revenge the injury of a shipmate. Rea- 
dily would I have become one of a body of Ame- 
rican seamen that w r ould number not more than 
(wo to five Arabs, and have commenced imme- 
diate war. I was desperate, but knew I must be 
humble, and see my shipmate mauled to pumice. 
It is singular that the negroes, although Africans 
like the Arabs, should, even by their own coun- 
trymen, although of a different tribe, be used 
with such barbarity. This miserable race of 
beings seem to be left by their Creator to the 
cruelty of the whole human race. In every 
clime, unless, indeed, they become objects of 
curiosity, as did the negro in Russia, they are 
beaten, enslaved, and often murdered. What 
language, then, can be found equal to the grate- 
ful task of eulogizing the names of Wilberforce 
and Clarkson, who have devoted their whole 
hves and great talents to the endeavor of rescu- 
ing these miserable creatures from the inhuma- 



120 



BOBBINS* JOURNAL. 



nity of man ? And what language is adequate 
to express the indignation of the heart, at that 
portion of civilized and Christianized man, who 
continue to capture, enslave, and murder them? 

I saw no more of poor Dick this day, nor did 
I ever afterwards see him. He has probably be- 
come a victim to the merciless Arabs of the tribe 
of Wiled Lebdessebah. I feel myself bound, 
however, to say that my master, although of this 
degraded and cruel tribe, was guilty of but lit- 
tle inhumanity to me. I suffered all but death 
to be sure when his slave ; but from his situa- 
tion, I know not how r he could have helped it. 
He was a grave, thoughtful, and regular man ; 
seldom inflamed with passion, and often bestow- 
ed favors upon me, which notwithstanding my 
distress when with him, I remember with grati- 
tude. While I hope never to bear an injury 
with mean submission, I also hope, I never shall 
become so hardened as to forget a favor. My 
master this day gave me a square piece of the 
colors of the brig, perhaps a yard and a half 
square. In the centre of it, I cut a hole to let 
my head through, and sewed up the sides, leav- 
ing arm-holes. By this, my body was considera- 
bly secured from the sun. This was probably 
the first American flag that was ever hoisted up- 
on, the deserts of Zahara. My mistress, like a 
true Amazon, determined that the " striped 
bunting" should not be monopolized by Ameri- 
can tars every where, took the remainder of it, and 
" covered herself with glory." Toward evening 
I went to the tent of Hogan's master to shew him 
my new uniform, made of 1 the colors under which 



ROBB1NS' JOURJNAli. 



121 



we once sailed happily together. It excited feel- 
ings not to be expressed, or repressed ; but his 
gloom made almost every object equally indif- 
ferent to him. The day ended, as it began, in 
misery. Hogan told me that Dick, the day be- 
fore, offered him some cooked snails, which his 
master; would not suffer him (Hogan) to eat, and 
that he expected to starve. 

CHAP. XI. 

A shower — a female fashion — an adventure—a journey — dress 
of a wandering Arab — smoking — Gum Arabic — slaying a ca- 
mel — a reiiast — Hogan — Arab hospitality, 

October 3d, 1815. 

I WENT this day to the tent of Porter's mas- 
ter, about seven miles distance, and found him 
in it. After tarrying some time, Porter and I, 
together with his master, and another Arab, each 
of whom had a musket, went up the valley to a tent 
where a camel had been killed. The muskets 
were good double-barrelled pieces, which Por- 
ter and I carried. When we arrived at the tent, 
some meat was cooked, which the Arabs gree- 
dily devoured, and gave the bones to us, which 
we immediately, with our teeth and finger nails, 
scraped clean of every particle of gristle. The 
Arabs were also treated with milk and water, 
but none was allowed to us. Porter and his 
master toward night went home, and I to my 
master's tent. 

October 4th. — Upon this day I saw what I had 
never before seen upon the desert — a shower. 
As soon as it commenced, the women went to 
the rocks upon the hills, with their geddacks and 



122 BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 

sponges to gather water. This they did by tak- 
ing the water from the rocks with a sponge, then 
squeezing it into the geddacks, or bowls. I laid 
down upon the rocks and licked and sucked all 
[ could, but was unable to satisfy my thirst. The 
shower soon passed over, and the burning rays 
of the sun returned. The women nearly filled 
a water goat skin, which they call giUabar, with 
water, and carried it with them to the tent. 

Upon the 5th, I remained in and about the 
tent. The women were engaged in ripping into 
pieces the garments they had found at the boat 
where we landed. They picked out the stitches 
with a large iron needle, and very carefully pre- 
served every thread, being vexed when they 
broke one. They then took the different pieces 
of the garments, and cut them into small pieces 
of almost every variety of shapes. My mistress 
was preparing to make a garment of them for 
herself. The cloth was all of blue, brown, or 
black color ; and what possible object they had 
in cutting it to pieces, I could not imagine. They 
then proceeded to sew it together. After about 
fifteen days' labor, she had gotten together 
enough to make a kind of loose frock, which was 
sewed to the colors, at her breast and back, and 
hung loosely down to her knees, her arms re- 
maining naked to her shoulders. She assumed 
that kind of consequence when clad in this gar- 
ment, which is sometimes seen in females that 
never saw or traversed these deserts. Her vi- 
sitors admired it ; and thought her peculiarly 
fortunate in having introduced a new fashion. 
My master, Ganus, with all his Mahometan gra- 



ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 123 

vity, was pleased with the comely appearance 
of his amiable bride. To see the flag of my coun- 
try decorating the upper part, and the habit of 
v. sailor the lower part of my mistress, made me 
smile myself, 

The next morning, (6th) my master and his 
two sisters, Muckwoola and Ishir, went with all 
the camels, about twenty, young and old, after 
water ; not having watered since the 24th of last 
month, or as the natives call a month, Shakar. 
They were gone during this day, and the 7th, 
and returned upon the 8th, early in the morn- 
ing. During their absence, I sought for snails 
and found but few. There was but a small rem- 
nant of water in the tent ; and the small quan- 
tity usually allowed me was diminished, so that 
I was obliged to beg at a neighbouring tent, in 
the name of my mistress, as this was the only 
way to obtain it. As I had wandered about five 
miles from the tent, entirely out of sight of all 
the tents, I saw a large Arab, with a drawn sci- 
mitar, approaching me with great rapidity. I 
leave it to the imagination to form an idea of my 
feelings. He said, " Soo-mook en tar?" what's 
your name ? I answered, Robbins, " Robbinis ! 
Robbinis /" He then asked, " Me-nanejate ?" I 
answered, by pointing towards my master's 
tent. He continued, " Ille-mein en tar ?" I an- 
swered, to Ganus. He seemed., by his conduct, 
to know my master, and said no more ; but eyed 
me very sharply as I walked hastily from him. 
The tents began to move away from the valley, 
leaving my master's almost alone. 

Upon the 8th, early in the morning, my mas- 



124 BOBBINS' JOURNAL 

ter, with Muckwoola, Ishir, the camels, and the 
water, returned, and the tents were immediate- 
ly struck, preparatory for a departure to some 
point in the compass, or, as I sometimes thought, 
to a point not in the compass ; these unthinking 
creatures seeming to act, half of the time, with- 
out any discoverable motive. Our family start- 
ed off with the two tents, in company with one 
of our neighbors, who also had two tents, and 
about fifty camels ; so that four tents, sixty ca- 
mels, about twenty Africans, and one American, 
formed quite a respectable cavalcade. We left 
the valley, and passed over the hill, bearing to 
theS.E. 

Upon a journey the usual times of refreshing, 
eating generally out of the question, is about 
noon, and eleven o'clock at night. When they 
have meat, which is seldom, they partake of it 
once only, and that after dark, lest they should 
lose a portion of it from its being discovered 
When they have nothing either to eat or drink, 
which is often the case, these particular times 
and seaso7is are dispensed with, and the time of 
refreshing is made up, by a rational creature, 
with " the feast of reason" and by Arabs, with 
jabbering and sleeping. We travelled moder- 
ately and pitched about sunset. 

From the 9th, until the 12th, we travelled gra- 
dually forward in a S. E. direction. The tra- 
velling dress of the male Arabs, of the Wiled 
Lebdessebah tribe, if they have any at all, is a 
coarse white blanket as the principal article. 
It is about a yard and a half wide, and five yards 
long. The mode of putting it on, when done 



R0BB1NS' JOURNAL. 125 

properly, is by pulling one corner of it over the 
left shoulder as low as the breast ; then winding 
it around the back and under the right arm, 
holding it by the upper edge ; then turning the 
body quickly round, until it comes under the 
left arm ; then throwing the upper edge over 
the head ; then behind the neck upon the right 
shoulder, the lower edge coming in front as low 
as the knee ; the remaining part of it is throw r n 
over the left shoulder, hanging loosely behind, 
some almost to the ground, or according to the 
length of the blanket The blanket is made fast 
next to the body, by a belt of morocco leather 
with a buckle. Over the whole is thrown a belt 
from the right shoulder, under the left arm, and 
sometimes another from the left shoulder under 
the right arm, crossing at the breast. To these 
are attached sheathes or powder horns, and in 
the sheath is put the scimitar, or long knife, such 
as the owner happens to have. This tribe sel- 
dom have any under-dress, being so miserably 
poor that many of them are unable to procure a 
decent blanket. If they have muskets, of which 
they appear excessively proud, they generally 
carry them in their hands, exhibiting them as an 
evidence of their wealth, or a proof of their skill 
in gunnery. 

They all have a kind of leather pouch hang- 
ing before them, by a strap going round the 
neck, in which they carry their smoking furni- 
ture, and tobacco, or weeds, or any thing else 
that will smoke. In these they also carry their 
flint and steel, to strike fire with. In one de- 
partment they carry their tinder, made of a weed 



126 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 

produced in the desert. Their pipes are also 
carried therein, some of steel and some of wood, 
and some smoke through the shin bone of the 
goat. The men are passionately fond of smok- 
ing if they can get tobacco ; and if they cannot, 
they will smoke pieces of leather. My master 
by little and little, smoked up nearly all his 
pouch. When a number form a circle, the pipe 
passes from mouth to mouth, each taking two or 
three whiffs, the last of which furnishes them with 
a number of puffs through the nose or mouth, as 
best suits their inclinations. They procure their 
tobacco from and near Wadinoon. The manner 
of cultivating it will hereafter be described. 

Upon the 13th, continuing nearly the same 
course, we discovered a number of tents far 
ahead. My master, taking the most fleet camel 
in the drove, went forward. After an absence 
of four hours, he returned with the head, neck, 
and part of the entrails of a camel, but we could 
not enjoy a repast immediately ? as there was 
not brush enough in sight to cook it. We halt- 
ed at sunset, and it was not until ten o'clock at 
night, after the most diligent search, that I was 
able to procure fuel enough to dress it. It was a 
kind of feast day with the family; and I was per- 
mitted to rejoice for the bounties of the desert over 
a few of the guts, which were broiled upon brush, 
without being washed. They cooked their part 
of the feast by digging a hole in the earth, and 
putting the head therein ; then building a fire 
upon the top of it, it was fitted for the supper- 
party at about one o'clock in the morning. 

From the 14th to the 16th 9 nothing happened 



ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 127 

worthy of relation. On the last of these days, 
my master procured some water from a small 
valley into which the water, produced by a 
shower, had settled, it being thick, warm and 
muddy. We continued in a S. E. direction. 

On the J 7th, we shifted our course to the east- 
ward ; the country became more hilly, and as it 
became so, there were always more bushes for 
the camels to feed upon. In this part of this de- 
sert, we found a -few trees about the size of our 
cherry-trees, resembling a large thorn bush, or 
tree, it produced a species of gum, for which 
the natives have a great fondness. It is light co- 
lored and transparent, and is the real Gum-Ara- 
bic. In the afternoon we ascended a considera- 
ble hill, and after descending a part of the way 
down the opposite side of it, the party stopped, 
without pitching the tent. We spent the night 
in the open air, the northeast wind blowing chil- 
ly upon us. I felt very unwell, and laid down ; 
and my master, knowing that my indisposition 
arose from want of food, cooked me a small 
piece of camel's hide, which, with a little warm 
milk, and some sound sleep, restored me to 
health by next morning. 

Upon the 18th, having retired to the most se- 
cret place, an event of the greatest immediate 
importance to me took place ; it was one that 1 
had long wished to witness, and the temporary 
benefits of which, I hoped to experience — it was 
the butchering of a camel. A young man from 
our neighboring tent came to my master's as- 
sistance, and, joining him and his sisters, assist- 
ed in catching a two-year old camel of the male 



128 



ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 



kind. They cast him, and lashed his four legs 
together. They then made fast a rope around 
his nose, and drew his head nearly back to the 
tail, tbe beast lying upon the side. They then, 
with a large knife, cut the neck off, close to the 
shoulder blades — then turning him on his back, 
they divided the skin from the shoulder to the 
tail. The entrails were laid upon clean bushes, 
and the meat being equally divided, was dispos- 
ed of in the same manner — one half for my mas- 
ter and his family, the other for his mother and 
sisters. The mother's name was Annbube. They 
cut off pieces of the hump, which is somewhat 
like the brisket of an ox, and ate it raw. I had, 
in the mean time, gathered together a large 
quantity of fuel, and they immediately proceed- 
ed to cook the blood, and with the utmost vora- 
city devoured the whole of it. This was at about 
two o'clock, and during the afternoon the wo- 
men were employed in cutting the lean part of 
it into thin long slices, and hanging them in the 
sun to dry. Joy seemed to pervade every heart; 
and even the rigid features of the Arab were 
relaxed into something that resembled compla- 
cency. Supper time was looked for with de- 
lightful anxiety, knowing that we should then be 
regaled with the guts of the animal, boiled in 
the water found in the paunch. After this re- 
past was disposed of, we all remained in the tent 
till about midnight, and then I retired to rest 
with a satisfied appetite ; being the first time 
since my slavery that I could say the same. Ne- 
ver, I think, did the most sincere Christian feel 
more grateful to *he Great Giver of temporal 



ROBBINS* JOURNAL. 12& 

blessings, than I did for this refreshment. It is 
a fact, worthy of observation, that the x4rabs kill 
a camel with the utmost secrecy. When my 
master killed this one, we were upon a plain 
that seemed to be without limits, no tent nor hu- 
man being in sight, excepting the four belonging 
to our party ; yet, before the skin was off^ five 
or six Arabs came bounding over the sandy de- 
sert, to partake of it. This I noticed was inva- 
riably the case, so long as I continued a slave to 
the wandering tribes, 

The next morning, (19th) I was employed in 
curing the camel's hide, or rather putting it in a 
situation to be preserved, until after the meat of 
the beast was consumed. It was cut into small 
pieces, and thrown into the fire, which, by sing- 
ing off the hair, and drying it, prepared it to be 
deposited in the tent and carried upon a jour- 
ney. The hoofs are disposed of in the same 
manner. They break all the bones to pieces, 
and eat all the marrow, uncooked. It is aston- 
ishing to see what a quantity of marrow is pro- 
duced from an animal whose meat is so dry and 
lean. At about ten o'clock, A. M. the master of 
Hogan, with him, and a number of Arabs, came 
to our tent ; having discovered, either from the 
smoke of our fire, or the odour of the cooking 
meat, that a camel had been slain. Some meat 
was immediately cooked. I was rejoiced to see 
a pretty liberal portion allotted to my hungry 
friend Hogan — who ate as though the genius of 
famine had long had him in her keeping. He 
tore off the meat from the hard, unyielding neck 
of the camel like a tiger ; and preserved a piece 



130 BOBBINS' JOURNAL 

to carry home to his shipmate and fellow-slave 
Dick : although his own appetite was not satis- 
fied. The visiters, in the mean time, were sa- 
tiating their appetites. It has been before re- 
marked, that the Arabs always treat their visiters 
with what they have ; it is always expected — 
and if it is known that a camel has been 
slain, and the owner conceals the meat, or 
declines to impart a portion, the highest in- 
dignation is excited. During these visits, the 
master and mistress never eat themselves, but 
wait upon their guests. Whether this practice 
arises from real hospitality, or from some article of 
tkeir faith, I know not, but I strongly suspect the 
latter. Not having with me the Koran, I cannot 
ascertain it. Those of my readers, who are ac- 
quainted with the system introduced into the 
world by that wonderful production, may pro- 
bably settle the question for themselves. 

After the meat was eaten, the guests were 
served with milk and water, and retired highly 
gratified ; not probably so much from a princi- 
ple of gratitude, as from the relief obtained for 
their hunger. 

CHAP. XII. 

A storm of sand — distress — a great story — Porter's sickness — a 
dismal plain — rapid travelling — nauseous water — description 
of a well in Zahara desert — marble mountain — deep valley, 
and monument — impossibility of escaping — Spaniard — view 
of the ocean — Cape Mirik — author sold to another Arab of the 
tribe of Wiled DHeim. 

FROM the 20th, to the 22d of October, we 
travelled leisurely to the southward and west- 



BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 131 

ward. Every morning, after the sun had reach- 
ed a considerable height, the party stopped, and 
hung out the slips of meat upon the tents or 
Pushes to dry. The country became more hilly 
and more sandy. Those who have seen the 
sandy hills at Cape Cod, in a violent gale of 
wind, can form a faint idea of the country over 
which we were now passing. The trade wind 
blew a gale almost constantly. The atmosphere 
was filled with hot sand, as ours is with snow r in 
a snow storm. The vertical rays of the sun beat- 
ing upon a body almost naked — the sand filling 
the eyes constantly exposed — the feet sinking, 
ancle deep, into the sand at every step, made 
travelling all but destruction. My ears, and 
nose, and sometimes my mouth, were literally 
filled with sand — the one almost lost the sense 
of hearing — the other that of smelling, and the 
last that of tasting. The tent could not be pitch- 
ed, as the sand would not hold the tent pegs. 
We had no water to spare for the grateful exer- 
cise of washing, and, as a most disgusting sub- 
stitute, I was compelled to make use of my own 
urine, in washing my face, arms, and hands. A 
few more such day's travelling, I think, would 
have put an end to my life and my slavery. 

Upon the 23d, we travelled to the southward 
The wind moderated considerably, and at about 
noon, we stopped, and unloaded the tents. My 
masters only son, about twelve years of age, 
named Elk, told me that Joe was in a tent at a 
little distance off! I knew he meant Porter, and 
he and I went in pursuit of the tents to the north- 
ward. After travelling three or four miles, we 



132 



ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 



called at a tent which was owned by Mr. Sa- 
vage's former master. I also saw my master 
Gaum, who was assisting in butchering a camel. 
I was immediately sent to gather dry bushes 
which were scarce, and continued as much as 
three hours in this laborious service. By this 
time, the camel was dressed. They had pro- 
cured a brass kettle, into which they threw some 
meat, entrails, &c. and boiled them in the paunch 
water. Of this, they all partook liberally. As 
a compensation for my toil, they gave me the 
fcetns of a young camel, found in the one they had 
killed, about the size of a rat. I pushed it into 
the fire and sand under the kettle, and after 
roasting it, was permitted to swallow the whole ca- 
mel myself. Extreme hunger made this a deli- 
cious meal. Porter's master was also here, and 
asked mine to let me go to his tent to see Joe, as 
he was sick. Liberty was granted, and I visited 
him at nearly sunset. He had been sick a num- 
ber of days with the head-ache, and had been 
bled in the head by the natives with a jack- 
knife, which they call L? moose. He looked sick, 
had lost much flesh, and was extremely deject- 
ed. Although the common cant of advising in 
such a case rather aggravates than mitigates 
sorrow, I ventured to urge him to exercise all 
the fortitude he could ; and as it was the will ol 
our Maker that we must suffer, we ought to make 
the best we could of our situation, wretched as 
it was. I fully believe that it was from this sen- 
timent, that my own life was preserved ; and 
that by this, I was kept from perishing upon the 
deserts of Zahara. 



ROEBINS' JOURNAL. 133 

We travelled, during the 24th, over deep 
sand : but upon the 25th, early in the morning, 
we all reached a boundless plain, stretching, 
apparently, an immeasurable distance to the 
south east, south west, and north west. The 
surface of the earth was hard, mixed with small 
stones, mostly baked in it. It appeared to be 
as hard as a pavement ; and the hoof of the ca- 
mel made not the least impression upon it. It 
could not be more dissimilar to the country we 
had just passed than it was. At sun rise, the 
camels were stopped, and, as usual, service was 
performed. I cannot call that divine service, 
which was performed in honour of Jtfahommcd. 
Our water was wholly exhausted, there being 
not a drop remaining in either tent. A little 
dried meat was still left. We entered upon this 
plain, and to me the most gloomy entry I ever 
made upon any part of the earth. The natives 
must have known that the course we were tra- 
velling would lead to a well, or they never would 
have ventured upon it. This was to me the on- 
ly consolation. By about noon, having travel- 
led very fast, we reached the centre of this 
plain. . The country presented to my view the 
most melancholy prospect that I can possibly 
imagine can exist in nature. It appeared to be 
an exact water level. The sea, in a dead calm, 
never, to my eye, appeared smoother : and the 
earth was as destitute as that of every shrub, 
plant, or weed. It seemed as if the genius of 
famine and drought, held here their cheerless do- 
minion. Neither man, beast, nor even insect, 
could subsist upon it, and neither were wdthin 

M 



134 



BOBBINS' JOURNAL, 



sight, except our party. We fled across it as we 
would have fled from the city of destruction. At 
nearly sunset we again reached a more sandy 
country. We continued to travel until ten 
o'clock at night; and having found a few bushes, 
the w r earied camels were stopped to feed. Hav- 
ing started in the morning at about one o'clock, 
by the stars, as I judged, and travelling with 
amazing rapidity, until ten o'clock at night, we 
must have gone as many as ninety miles. The 
course we travelled was to the S. W. We only 
threw off the tents, and resting till nearly day 
light, again started upon the journey. Not hav- 
ing drank a single drop of water the day before, 
nor during this night, my thirst was so excessive, 
ihat I thought I could not survive it. We, how- 
ever, drove on as usual at a full trot ; and did 
not, until the next day, (26th) at twelve o'clock, 
find any w r ater. My master then procured a 
draft for us all, at a tent ; and this, with a few of" 
the roots and sprouts before mentioned, in some 
measure, satisfied me. We stopped but a few 
minutes ; and the country becoming hilly, and 
the night dark, we travelled, full speed, over 
hills and vallies, till twelve o'clock. We must 
have gone ns many miles this day as we did the 
preceding one, being the most rapid travelling 
I ever witnessed upon camels. The tents were 
thrown off, and the camels fed ; a little meat was 
cooked for the party, and as soon as this was 
finished, we started again. For the past day, 
our course was about west. We drove on with 
the greatest rapidity until the next day, (27th) 
at about noon, when, to my inconceivable joy, 



BOBBINS' JOURNAL. x j5 

we reached a well. But upon attempting to 
taste the water, notwithstanding the extremity 
of my thirst, it was with the greatest difficulty 1 
could force it into my throat, or retain it there 
when I had. It was more offensive than the 
most nauseous bilge-water — it had turned green 
by stagnation, and reddish by the quantity of 
camel's dung mixed with it ; but it was our only 
resource, w and we must drink or die" 

This was an interior well, which is seldom 
found far into the deserts. This well was one 
of great depth. When the natives begin to dig 
a well, they furnish themselves with all the largest 
bushes or trees in the adjoining country, some 
of which are of the size of a man's thigh. These 
they cut into poles of about six feet in length. 
After they have penetrated a small depth into 
the earth, they put three of these sticks into 
holes, made in the sides of the well, leaving a 
triangular hole in the centre, of a sufficient ^ize 
to let down and draw up the water-bucket. 
These poles are placed thick at the top, and 
further apart as the earth grows harder. In this 
way they continue to descend into the earths 
passing the earth up in bowls from one to the 
other to the top, and inserting the stakes as 
mentioned, when necessary. After they have 
descended a considerable depth, they draw up 
the earth in leathern buckets, by means of a 
rope, having no windlass or sweep, to assist bo- 
dily strength in this laborious operation. In- 
deed, this tribe seemed to have no idea of ma- 
chinery of the most simple kind, to facilitate the 
construction or manufacture of any thing, or to 



136 



BOBBINS 1 JOURNAL. 



save manual labor. They continue in this man- 
ner to descend, until they come to water. Look- 
ing down the well, as far as light will enable the 
eye to discern, the observer sees a regular tri- 
angle in the centre. These cross-sticks furnish 
a ladder, by w r hich the natives descend to clear 
the well of sand, which is constantly blowing 
into its open surface; these stupid creatures 
seldom having sagacity enough to prevent this 
by covering the top. The water is drawn from 
the well in a leathern bucket, made of tanned 
camel's or goat's skins. The top of it is a cir- 
cular hoop, ove? which the skin is sewed, form 
ing a round vessel at the sides and bottom, hold- 
ing about three gallons. Three ropes are fas- 
tened to this hoop, equi-distant from each other, 
and these to the one by which it is let down. 
The country in which this well was situated was 
the deepest and most extensive valley I had yet 
seen ; surrounded, excepting to the westward, 
by high rocky hills. On the east side, I saw and 
examined immense ledges of the most beautiful 
white marble. As I was descending into this 
valley, my distress could not suppress my admi- 
ration, at beholding an immense rock of white 
marble, standing perpendicularly, and entirely 
detached from the ledge, which formed the east- 
ern limits of it. On a distant view, I immediate- 
ly imagined it to be some castle for the defence 
of an adjoining city, or the palace of some Afri- 
can prince. I felt confident that I was approach- 
ing some great city. I continued to approach ; 
and almost forgot my hunger and thirst in the 
anticipated gratification of my curiosity. At 



ROBBINS' JOURNAL 137 

length, I came to this astonishing monument — 
went round it — examined it as minutely as I pos- 
sibly could, and could not discover upon it the 
least trait of human art. My expectations vvei e 
blown away by the wind that whistled round it, 
and my readers must excuse me for not saying 
any thing more about it, only that it was, at the 
base, in the shape of a parallelogram, or oblong 
square, as near as I could judge, of one hundred 
feet in length, and sixty in breadth. Its height 
must have been from seventy to eighty feet. 
After stating the simple fact, I leave it to the cu- 
rious, the philosophical, the inquisitive, and the 
wondering, to make conjectures for themselves. 
This valley was, to appearance, the most fertile 
place I had seen. It was the first earth I had 
walked upon in Africa, that seemed susceptible 
of cultivation. It was mostly a clay-soil, and 
considerable grass was growing, or rather stand- 
ing, as the excessive drought this season had 
dried up every thing. The grass resembled that 
which grows in what is called, in New-England, 
boggy meadoios. Toward night w r e left this val- 
ley, and passed through the opening hill to the 
soutlrvvest, having filled but two goat skins with 
the offensive water found in the well. I carried 
a bowl full, however, four or five miles, fearing 
I should be destitute of water of any kind. We 
stopped for the night, and cooked a little dried 
meat, by putting small hard pieces into the fire, 
roasting it, taking it out and pounding it in a 
mavess, or mortar. 

Upon the 28th, we travelled moderately to 
the southwest, until noon, when the tents were 

M 2 



138 



ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 



pftcned, for the first time, for a number of days. 
Even the stomach of an Arab could no longer 
endure the water we had ; and my master and 
his sisters having learned from a passing party, 
that water was at no great distance, went in pur- 
suit of some of a better kind, if comparisons of 
quality are allowable between different sorts, all 
of which would nauseate a beast. 

On the next day, (29th) Muckwoola and Ishir 
returned, bringing with them some fresh water, 
and some dried fish-skins, or fragments of fish, 
which had before been deprived of the better 
part. Some of this was allowed me for supper; 
and as it was a rarity, having lived upon camel's 
hide, meat, and bones for some time, I ate it with 
the best appetite. My master Gams did not 
return with his sisters. I was left under the 
command of the women once more , and, as 
usual, found my privileges abridged as female 
authority prevailed. We remained stationary 
until the next day, at noon, (30th) then start- 
ed and bore to the N. W. and travelled mode- 
rately, during that and the next day, (31st.) 

November 1st, ] 815. — From this day until the 
3d, we continued to travel moderately, and as 
we passed along, the country became more hil- 
ly ; nothing took place of any consequence. On 
our passage we saw a few small locusts, which 
we gathered and ate. Upon the 3d, my master 
returned to his tent, after an absence of six days, 
it being his longest absence since I was his 
slave, bringing with him one piece of tent cloth. 
Having often mentioned that I wandered off at 
a distance, and frequent opportunities occurring 



BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 139 

to make my escape, it may excite wonder that 
I did not attempt it. The description 1 have at- 
tempted to give of the country seems to be a 
sufficient reason. Had I attempted it, starva- 
tion must have been the final result, if I had not 
been taken by another master before this took 
place. Let the reader imagine to himself a de- 
sert of eight hundred miles in width, and more 
than two thousand in length, furnishing nothing 
for the subsistence of human beings, but camels, 
and these always in possession of individuals, 
parties, or caravans. Let him also picture to 
himself a solitary w r anderer upon this desert, 
without food or water, and without any means 
to procure either, and liable every day, and al- 
most every hour, to be encountered by the na- 
tives, who are passing it in every direction, he 
will conclude that the means of escape were of 
the most unpromising nature. I might as well 
have escaped from a ship, by plunging into the 
ocean. At Wadinoon I afterwards became ac- 
quainted with a Spaniard, who attempted, upon 
a male camel, to escape. He assured me that 
he travelled the desert thirty days without wa- 
ter, and without any food, excepting a fox which 
he killed. That at the end of this time, he and 
his stolen camel were taken by another tribe, 
and he became a slave to them. He was after- 
wards demanded by his first master ; but abso- 
lutely refused to return again into the tribe of the 
Lebdessebah, and seizing a musket, threatened the 
life of him. His former master relinquished the 
attempt to reclaim him, and he continued a slave 
until the time he and I were, upon the same day, 



140 



ItOBBINS' JOURNAL. 



ransomed. He assured me that he had been in 
slavery seven years. I shall again have occa- 
sion to mention this Spaniard. 

My master ordered the tents to be struck up- 
on his return, and we proceeded to travel in a 
northern direction. I went ahead with my mas- 
ter, delighted again to be relieved from the 
thraldom and irksomeness of female government, 
which, wherever it prevails, being founded in 
less reason, is accompanied with more tyranny 
than that of men. Toward night, we overtook 
a sick woman upon a camel. She was the first 
female Arab whom I had seen dangerously sick ; 
indeed it was rare to see even the slightest in- 
disposition among them. I assisted her in dis- 
mounting, after the camel was made to kneel. 
My master's family overtook us, and the tent 
was pitched. After taking a little milk, I turn 
ed in. 

The next morning, (4th) before day-light we 
were on the march for another watering-place. 
I was permitted to go with the party to the well, 
being the first time, since my slavery, that I was 
allowed so to do, being always before left be- 
hind with the tent. This variation from the usu- 
al custom excited a suspicion in my mind'that I 
was to be sold ; as the large watering-places are 
generally the market for slaves. In travelling 
toward it, we passed over hills of sand. When 
at the top of them, I saw the ocean ! 1 knew it 
must be the Atlantic, from the course we had 
travelled. I ardently panted to be on the bo- 
som of it, as the waves thereof might waft me to 
the regions of civilization— and might waft me 



R0BBINS' JOURNAL. 



141 



to my beloved country. In the valley below, I 
saw a great multitude of camels around the 
wells, there being a number in this valley. The 
camels knew there was water below, as well as 
their riders ; and after descending a part of the 
way down the steep hill, the forward camels be- 
gan to run. My camel followed the example ; 
and as the mouth of this beast never submitted 
to the restraint of the bit, never having been 
bridled, I was precipitated down the hill with a 
velocity with which I had before been unac- 
quainted; and when I arrived at the well, I 
might have said, as Gilpin did when he reached 
Ware, " I came, because my camel would 
come." The wells were situated near each 
other ; but from the number of camels that are 
constantly coming to drink, they are obliged to 
keep them off, if possible, till those drinking are 
satisfied. This is done with very great difficul- 
ty. After the camels are sufficiently watered, 
they are sent to browse. The natives never 
bring their tents to a well, leaving them behind 
in the keeping of the women. I now had as 
much water as I wanted ; and can say, that it 
was the first time my thirst was thoroughly 
quenched, since I became a slave toGanus. The 
tents must have been as many as fifty miles back 
in the desert ; for they always remain where 
they are left, when the owner goes in search of 
water, until he returns. We slept this night un- 
der a large bush with a large company, and kept 
a fire for the most part of the night. 

Upon the 5th, early in the morning, the ca- 
mels were all watered again, as they are some- 



142 



HOELBINS' JOURNAL. 



times compelled to go entirely without it for 
twenty days, and sometimes for a longer period. 
My master Ganus expressed great anxiety that 
my short trowsers should be washed ; and told 
me to take them off This left my body entirely 
naked, excepting that part of it which was co- 
vered with the American flag, and which he did 
not attempt to compel me to strike. They were 
hung upon a camel to dry, and this was the last 
time I ever saw them, or Muckwoola and Ishir, 
who carried them off with them. 

I was now taken on to a camel behind my mas 
ter, who, in company with another Arab, went 
off full trot to the southward. Before noon, we 
met numbers of the natives who had fresh fish 
with them. We obtained a breakfast of them. 
By the middle of the afternoon, we came to the 
edge of an high precipice, limiting a considera- 
ble bay, a little to the north of Cape Mirik. We 
descended to the beach, at the head of the bay, 
which had in it a number of sand islands. The 
tide was now out, leaving it dry, and we passed 
along at the base of the precipice, and discover- 
ed a number of shallow wells, having brackish 
water in them. We continued to travel upon 
the beach until we came to a number of pitched 
tents, and here I first saw a kind of hut or wig- 
wam, constructed by erecting two crotches about 
ten feet apart — laying a pole on them, and from 
this extending poles to the ground, and cover- 
ing them with sea-weed, giving them the shape 
of a thatched roof. Within, the natives have a 
bed made also of sea-weed : but lest thev should 
blunder upon something that looks like the con- 



BOBBINS' JOURNAL. t 43 

venience and comfort of civilized life, they are 
careful to make them so low that a human being 
cannot stand erect in one of them. We dis- 
mounted near a hut. My master went off, and 
I sat down, in a kind of trance, gazing upon the 
bay before me, and upon the point of Cape Mi- 
rile, stretching into the sea. Soon after my mas- 
ter returned with three or four Arabs, one of 
whom was soon pointed out as my second master. 
He bade me stand up — told me to walk, and 
viewed me with the closest scrutiny. I suspect- 
ed he was about to open my mouth to judge of 
my age by my teeth, and examine my feet to see 
if I had been foundered by high living with my 
master Ganus. mistress Sarah, misses Muckwoo- 
la and Ishir ; but he dispensed with these cere- 
monies, seemed to be pleased, and said I was 
not foonta. but bono. He bade me follow him. 
We went some distance to one of the huts, where 
he bested some dried fish for me which I ate. 

I now became the property of another Arab. 
I felt but little anxiety at this exchange, know- 
ing that my situation could not be rendered 
much worse, although I was sensible that Ganus 
was not so bad as some of the Arabs I had seen. 
At first sight. I was pleased with my new mas- 
ter. He was a little over thirty, by his appear- 
ance. He had an open, ingenuous countenance, 
with but little of that fiery malignity so univer- 
sally seen in the tribe of the Lebdnssebah. His 
name was .Mahomet JJeaaraJu of the tribe of the 
Wiled Ddeir/u his tent being some distance in the 
interior. 

The readers of this Journal thus far will per- 



144 BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 

ceive,that the author has confined himself strict- 
ly to what passed under his immediate observa- 
tions. He has absolutely prohibited himself 
from incorporating with his narration, any of the 
vague, and generally deceptive stories, which 
he had heard from the illiterate and brutish race 
of creatures, among w r hom he was enslaved. 
Had he done this, the volume would have alrea- 
dy been filled. His steady object has been to 
give an accurate idea of that part of the Zahara 
desert over which he travelled. It cannot have 
a geographical accuracy, because he had no 
means to ascertain the latitude of the country 
over which he travelled, or rather was trans- 
ported, but by the situation of the sun, and by 
the shade which his own body cast upon the 
sand of this immense desert. As to the man- 
ners, customs, and habits of the tribe, with which 
he had thus long continued, he hopes the reader 
has acquired some correct ideas. He has at- 
tempted to describe their implements of manu- 
facturing, cooking, and travelling — their habi- 
tations, and particularly their mode of worship. 
The result of this relation and description is be- 
fore the reader, and it is hoped it may at least 
furnish some amusement, if it is destitute of in- 
struction. We now take leave of the wretched 
-tribe of the Wiled Lehdessebah, and whatever has 
been seen among the Wiled DHeim of a similar 
nature, we shall not repeat, but merely allude 
to. Whatever was noticed of a different nature 
in this tribe, we shall continue patiently to de- 
tail, and faithfully to describe. 



ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 



145 



CHAP. XIII. 

Africa — the Coast — Interior — Deserts — Mountains — Capes — 
R iv c rs — Is la n d s — St ra its . 

THE attention of the reader having been for 
some time devoted to that part of Africa called 
Zahara, or the Great Western Desert — to the pe- 
culiarities of the wandering xlrabs who inhabit 
it, and to the sufferings of the author upon it ; it 
may be an useful way to relieve it. by changing 
attention from a section of this continent to a ge- 
neral view of the whole. It is not intended to 
give a minute geographical description of each 
kingdom, as such more properly belongs to the 
geographer than the journalist. In our histori 
cal chapter we endeavored, in a compressed 
manner, to trace the progress of discoveries, and 
settlements upon this continent. In this, it is 
intended merely to describe the relative local 
situations of the different countries or kingdoms, 
situated upon this immense Peninsula, compris- 
ing at least one quarter of the whole globe. The 
most accurate information we can obtain of this 
continent is at best but imperfect ; and our li- 
mits preclude us from giving any thing but a ge- 
neral account. In our historical chapter, we 
attempted to assign the reason, why this portion 
of the world is so little known, while the other 
continents, even that of the new world, Ameri- 
ca, have been almost wholly explored and de- 
scribed. To that, we refer the reader ; and al- 
so to that, we refer him for the boundaries of 
this continent, (page 38.) 



146 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 

Africa is divided, nearly in the centre, by the 
Equator ; of course the greatest part of it is si- 
tuated within the torrid zone. The whole of it 
is either exceedingly fertile, or extremely bar- 
ren. Its fertility is occasioned by the gregtt 
sources of vegetation, heat and moisture. Heat 
prevails every where ; but moisture in particu- 
lar portions. Where the latter prevails, this 
country is one of the most productive in the uni- 
verse — where it is deprived of rain, it is " all 
barren." This continent differs from the other 
three great ones, in almost every respect. In 
the others, the sea coast is generally the most 
barren ; in this, the interior is so. Upon the 
coast, are regions abounding with every luxury 
which nature pours into the lap of indulgence ; 
much of the interior is a boundless w r aste of de- 
serts. A vertical sun, pouring burning rays up- 
on dry sand, defies the progress of vegetation. 
Even upon these deserts,a race of beings isfound 
to subsist. With the curse of Ishmael upon their 
devoted heads, and sordid hearts, they flee the 
regions of fertility and civilization, and seem to 
delight in sterile barrenness, and human misery. 

It has been remarked, that this continent, in 
shape, resembles a triangle, with irregular sides. 
Beginning at the northeast point, Egypt is situ- 
ated, bounding east upon the Red Sea, and north 
upon the Mediterranean, and the Isthmus of 
Suez, uniting this continent there with Asia. 
This section of Africa has long been celebrated, 
and is well known in sacred and profane histo- 
ry. Continuing west upon the northern bounda- 
ry of this continent, and along the shores of the 



KOBBINS' JOURNAL. 147 

Mediterranean, Barca, Tripoli, Tunis, Algiers, Fez, 
and Morocco, are situated, reaching the north- 
west point, at the Straits of Gibraltar. All these 
countries are possessed by Arabs and Moors, al- 
though with them are intermingled other na- 
tions. It is generally termed the Coast of Bar- 
bary. The history of these distinct states, or 
kingdoms, is known to every historian, and their 
geographical situation to every geographer. 
For centuries they have been, and still are, the 
terror of the civilized world. Nations, the most 
powerful by land and by sea, have condescend- 
ed to pay them tribute, and to ransom their un- 
fortunate countrymen who are there enslaved. 
They infest the adjoining oceans with their con- 
temptible navies, and upon land they are invin- 
cible ; not from their numbers or their military 
science, but from the facilities afforded them by 
their country, to avoid conquest by the best dis- 
ciplined armies. Destroy their naval armaments, 
and batter down their capitals, they still have a 
safe retreat in their mountains and in their de- 
serts, where a civilized army cannot subsist. 
The mention of Tripoli calls up the proud re- 
collection of the infancy of the American JYavy, 
It was upon the coast of that country, that Ame- 
ricans began to learn how to conquer upon the 
ocean. It was their achievements there that 
occasioned the prophetic JYelson to see, in the 
infancy of our navy, the future rival of that ol 
Britain. The mention of Algiers makes us re- 
member a recent achievement of this navy as 
she is approaching towards manhood. 

Upon the Western boundary of Africa, are s> 



148 BOBBINS' JOURNAL 

tuated Suse, Azanaga, North-Guinea, or Senegal, 
embracing the country of the Jaloffs, Foulahs, 
Feloops and Mandingoes — South-Guinea, con- 
taining the Pepper Coast, the Ivory Coast, and the 
Gold Coast — East-Guinea, or the Slave Coast, in 
which is situated the kingdoms of Whidah, Ardra, 
and Benin. The next great division of the wes- 
tern coast is Congo, comprehending the king- 
doms of Loango, Congo, Angola, Matamba, and 
Benguela. It is upon this coast that the Slave 
Trade has so long, to the indelible disgrace of 
the Christian world, been prosecuted. The in- 
habitants are described, by all historians, as 
mild and peaceable. Possessing a country of 
great fertility — having no means of making con- 
quests, or extending dominion, they remain 
where nature has placed them, unmoved by the 
sordid demands of avarice, or the more splendid 
and guilty calls of ambition. The different tribes, 
or kingdoms, sometimes make war upon each 
other; but they are urged on to warfare by 
European and American merchants, to capture 
each other to furnish slave-ships with their car- 
goes. With a few paltry toys, calculated to 
catch the fancy of untutored barbarians, they 
induce the natives to prey upon each other, and 
exchange their countrymen for baubles. After 
doing this, a Christian merchant excuses him- 
self by saying, the Africans enslave each other ! 
This reasoning may be conclusive before a tri- 
bunal of slave-merchants, assembled in a prince- 
ly mansion, that ow r es its splendor to human 
jlood, but all the courts of Europe have very 
recently, by common consent, united to wipe the 



ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 149 

foul stain from the character of their respective 
nations, impressed upon them by this inhuman, 
detestable, and diabolical traffic. The Consti- 
tution of the United States is the first one that 
absolutely prohibited it. 

Upon the western coast is also situated the 
country of the JVamaquas, and of the Hottentots ; 
which, together with the colony of the Cape of 
Good Hope,, comprehends the southern point of 
the continent, and stretching quite across it to 
the eastern side. 

Upon the eastern side of this continent are sit- 
uated Inhambane, Manica, Sabia, Sofala, and Mo- 
caranga. Continuing east, toward Cape Guarda-. 
fui and the Straits of Babelmandel, the kingdoms 
of Mozambique. Mongolia, Quiloa, Montbaza, Melin- 
da, and Monoemugi, the republic of Brava, and 
the kingdom of Magadoxa, are situated. Adelis 
an extensive kingdom, embracing an immense 
country around Cape Guardafui, the easternmost 
point of the continent. From this Cape, to the 
Isthmus of Suez, this continent is bounded east- 
erly upon the Arabian Gulf which reaches to that 
place. 

We have now conducted the reader around 
the Coast of this immense triangular peninsula. 
We have mentioned the principal countries as 
they succeed each other, beginning at Egypt, 
ruid following the coast along its northern, western, 
and eastern sides, until we again reached that 
place situated near the Isthmus of Suez. The 
geographical knowledge of the reader will rea- 
dily enable him to supply that minute informa- 
tion which our limits preclude us from detailing, 

N2 



150 BOBBINS' JOURNAL 

The Interior of Africa is known more from 
vague conjecture than accurate description. 
Many hardy travellers have, at the hazard of 
life, (see historical chapter,) explored parts of 
it. Abyssinia has long been celebrated by the 
geographer, and the scholar. The one makes it 
the region of fertility, having the sources of the 
JYile within its limits — the other converts it into 

the region of romance. The classical Johnson, 
in his " Prince of Abyssinia" gives us an idea of 
a distinct world. His Rasselas has dressed this 
kingdom in all the charms, which the most fer- 
tile imagination and classical mind can impart to 
a terrestrial region. 

The description of the country situated upon 
the Niger, under the general name of Soudan, 
transports the mind of the reader to a region en- 
tirely the reverse. This part of the continent, 
although watered by a majestic stream, and ha- 
ving an adjoining country of great fertility, seems 
to be that region where the wrath of Heaven, 
against man, is for ever to be displayed. The 
denunciation against the descendants of Ishmael 
stands yet unreversed — the innocent blood of 
the Messiah yet rests upon the head of his mur- 
derers, and here, in the GreatDesert of Zahara, and 
in other parts of the interior, they both remain a 
standing miracle. The knowledge we possess 
of this desert is principally derived from the 
Christian slaves, who have there been suffering 
witnesses of the manners, customs, and habits of 
the w r andering Arabs ; and famishing wanderers 
themselves, through the wide spread desolation 
pervading the country they inhabit. It has fallen 



ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 151 

to the unhappy lot of Americans to furnish most 
of the information the world possesses upon this 
subject. The ingenious Mr. Cock has given the 
world the narrative of the American sailor, Ro- 
bert Adams, and the indefatigable Mr. Dupuis, 
has, by his notes, confirmed its accuracy. The 
crew of the Commerce seem to have been design- 
ed to suffer themselves, that the world, through 
them, might learn. It is hoped this little volume 
will add something to the little knowledge al- 
ready obtained of the desert of Zahara, and the 
western coast of Africa. As to that portion oi 
the interior, situated upon the equator, and with- 
in the Tropic of Capricorn, even conjecture it- 
self has almost omitted to exercise its uncertain 
and futile powers. In Soudan, are included the 
empires of Houssa and Tombuctoo, the country of 
the Agadez, the kingdoms of Ludamar, Bondou, 
and Bambouk, also the kingdoms of Bornou, and 
Darfur. Nubia contains Turkish JYubia, Donga- 
la, and Sennaar. North of the Zahara Desert, 
are situated the countries of Tafilet, and Biled-ul- 
Gerid, lying south of the Barbary States. 

The Deserts, which comprehend so much of the 
interior, are the Zahara or Great Western Desert. 
This region of desolation and barrenness stretch- 
es, by the best authorities, from 15° to 31° N. 
Latitude, and from 70° W. to 16° E. Longitude. 
The desert of Libya from 25° to 30° N. Latitude, 
and from 21° to 30° E. Longitude. The desert 
of Barca is small. 

The Mountains upon this continent are in 
ranges. The Atlas has been celebrated from the 
ages of antiquity to this time. According to the 



152 BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 

fabulous accounts of the ancients, it supports the 
firmament. The inimitable Addison resorts to 
it as the emblem of firmness. He makes his 
Cato, like that " glory in height" These moun- 
tains extend from the western coast of iYfrica, to 
the Gulf of Sydra. They commence in the 28° 
N. Latitude, and extend, in a N. E. course, to 
34° N. Latitude ; and from thence, in an east 
direction, to 14° E. Longitude. Although these 
mountains are more celebrated, being more 
known, yet the mountains of Kong, in point of 
extent, certainly exceed them. They stretch 
from the river Gambia, to 23° E. Longitude. The 
Mountains of the Moon commence in 17° E. Lon- 
gitude, and run east to 37° E. Longitude. These 
two ranges divide almost the whole continent 
into northern and southern divisions, and are 
situated between the fifth and thirteenth degrees 
of north latitude. The mountains of Lupata be- 
gin at the mouth of the river Quilimane, upon the 
eastern coast, and encircling the kingdom of 
Mocaranga, extend to the country of the Hotten- 
tots. The Chrystal Mountains are situated near 
the kingdoms of Congo, Angola, and Benguela, 
upon the western coast. 

The Capes upon this continent are, upon the 
northern coast, or the Mediterranean, Cape Bon* 
in Tunis ; and Cape Spartel, near Tangier. Up- 
on the western coast, or the Atlantic, are Cape 
Geer, near Santa Cruz — Cape Bajador, upon 
which the Commerce was wrecked — Cape Barbas 
where the crew landed with the boat — Cape 
Mirilc — Cape Verd — Cape Mesurada — Cape Pal- 
mas — Cape of the Three Points — Cape Fonnosa — 



ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 153 

Cape Negro — Cape de Lasvoltas, and the Cape of 
Good Hope, at the southernmost point of the con- 
tinent. Upon the eastern coast, or Indian ocean, 
are Capes Needle, St. Mary, Corientes, Sebastian, 
Delgado, Baxas, and Cape Guardafui, forming the 
easternmost point of the continent. 

The Rivers of this continent, when compared 
with those of Asia, are diminished to rivulets. 
When the Ganges is recollected, the Nile, and 
the Niger, are almost forgotten in the majesty 
of the former. When compared with the Mis- 
sissippi, Missouri, Ohio, Amazon, and La Plata, of 
America, they then lose their consequence. The 
Tybei, the Danube, the Seine, the Tagus, the Vis- 
tula, the Thames, and the Don of Europe, in many 
respects, exceed them; but still, the Nile must 
be ranked with the great geographical and 
classical streams. 

The sources of this river have been sought af- 
ter with an assiduity, unparalleled in the history 
of the most romantic adventurers. It is supposed 
to have its source in the Mountains of the Moon, 
and is known to empty itself, through numerous 
mouths, into the Mediterranean, near Alexandria, 
after passing through Abyssinia and Egypt. The 
source of the Niger is not certainly known ; and 
even the course it runs is yet a disputed point 
among geographers. Some contend that it runs 
eastward, and empties itself into lakes in Wan- 
gara, in the interior of the continent. Others 
feel confident that its course is westward, and 
that it loses itself in the regions of Guinea. All 
we can say is, " Who shall decide when Doctors 
disagree ?" The Senegal has its source not far 



154 



BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 



from tfte mountains of Kong, and it empties into 
the Atlantic ocean in about 16° N. Latitude. 
The Nile, the Niger, and the Senegal, annually 
overflow their banks, dispensing fertility and 
luxuriance to the country adjoining them. The 
other principal streams of Africa are the Gambia, 
JWarocco, Sierra Leona, Benin, Congo, Zuire, 
Coantza, Manica, Zambezi, Coavo, Zeta, and Ma- 

The principal Islands, situated around this con- 
tinent, have a consequence in sacred and pro- 
fane history, almost equal to the continent itself. 
In the Mediterranean, are the islands of Cyprus*, 
Candia, Malta, Sicily, and Sardinia, In the At- 
lantic are those of Madeira, the Canaries, and 
Cape Verds. These islands are well known to 
American navigators, and have greatly enhanc- 
ed the wealth of American merchants. St. Louis 
is situated at the mouth of the Senegal. In the 
South Atlantic, above 1100 miles from the con- 
tinent, is situated the island of St. Helena ; well 
known to the navigators to India, and now dig- 
nified by the residence of Napoleon. It is a small 
island ; but the modern Charlemagne cannot be- 
come small by being in a little place. The Isles 
of Ascension and St. Matthew are nearly the same 
distance from the coast. Near to the coast are 
situated Fernando Po, Princess, St. Thomas, and 
Annobon. In the Indian ocean, is the important 
island of Madagascar, about 800 miles in length, 
and 200 in breadth. Also the Isle of France, and 
Bourbon, the Comora Islands, Zanzeba and Pom- 
ba. Near Cape Guardafui is situated the island 
$f Socotra. 



gadoxa 



BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 155 

The Straits adjoining this continent are those 
of Babel-Mandel, uniting the Red Sea with the 
Indian ocean, and Gibraltar, which separates this 
continent from Europe. 

The Gulfs are — the Gulf of Sydra, Goletta, Gut 
nea, and Sofala. The channel of Mozambique, be- 
tween the island of Madagascar and the coast of 
Mozambique, is the only one belonging to this 
continent. 

This chapter is introduced for the double 
purpose of relieving the reader from the detail 
of sufferings and minute descriptions, and giving 
a mere bird's eye view of Africa. 

CHAP. XIV. 

Mahomet Meaarah — Fishing — Cape Mirik — innocent deception 
— obstinacy — Barrett — Hon. William Wiltshire — calendar — 
second tour into the desert — thanksgiving — description of a 
camel — Mode of instruction in reading and writing. 

November 5th, 1815. 
MY new master Meaarah? s first inquiry was, 
if I had any clothes beside w r hat I had on ? 
I told him I had not, my whole wardrobe con- 
sisting of the piece of our colors, before men- 
tioned, and a piece of the skin of the gazelle tied 
round my middle. I told him that Ganus had 
taken from me that day my trowsers and my 
shoes, the latter being worn out by travelling. 
He said Ganus was foonta, for taking them, and 
that he would regain them. He discovered the 
same resentment that the purchaser of a horse 
would, if the seller, after the sale, should slily 
take off the halter. He recovered the shoes and 



156 BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 

gave them to me, and a piece of blanket for my 
middle. He might, among the Arabs, be called 
a well dressed man ; for he had a blue frock- 
shirt hanging below his knees, and a good white 
blanket put on as described among the Wiled 
Lebdessebah. He seemed to be a man of more 
than ordinary consequence among the natives ; 
for, instead of joining them in the toil of fishing, 
he was examining and purchasing fish. He went 
away towards night, and left me at one of the 
huts in the care of an old Arab by the name of 
Abdallah, who furnished me with fish for food. 
They were of the size of the mackerel, nearly 
the color of our salmon trouts, of the most de- 
licious flavor, and very fat. They were some- 
times taken in considerable abundance. The 
seine with which they were taken was made of 
well manufactured twine, apparently of a spe- 
cies of grass. They consisted of meshes of a 
small size, having both a cork rope and a lead 
rope. Through the meshes next to the cork 
rope, they run a pole of six feet in length, gath- 
ering up the seine from each end to the centre. 
This seine consists of any number they choose 
to unite together, each single one being about 
twelve rods in length, and owned by different 
persons. The whole seine being gathered upon 
two poles, two carriers walk into the water up 
to their arm-pits ; and then one goes one way 
^nd the other another, slipping off the seine as 
they walk. When it is drawn out at full length, 
which is sometimes seventy-five rods, a number 
of other men go out with threshing-poles, and 
drive the fish into the seine as the two men at 



R0BJ3INS' JOURNAL. l57 

the ends approach each other. They then en- 
ter the circle made by the seine, and continue 
to thresh the water, until they suppose they have 
gilled all the fish. The separate owners then 
take each their net, and the fish gilled in it, and 
bring them ashore. They seldom catch exceed- 
ing an hundred by one drawing. The fish are 
of different kinds, although generally of that first 
mentioned. Uhoot is the name of fish with the 
Arabs. 

The bay where I was now situated is formed 
by Cape Mirik, upon the south, and by high sand- 
hills, and a few small islands upon the north. At 
ebb-tide, the whole bay, excepting a narrow 
channel, which extends into it about five miles 
frpm the outermost part of the Cape, running 
near it, is entirely dry. Within the bay, are situ- 
ated two small islands, composed wholly of 
sand. 

From the north boundary of this bay, is a 
point of sand r unning into it tow r ards Cape Mirik, 
nearly half its width, which forms the inner bay. 
From the termination of this point, to the Cape, 
is about five miles. From the islands, which 
form the mouth of the outer bay. upon the north 
to the Cape, is about twenty miles. From Cape 
Mirik, to the head of the bay, following the 
shore, it is about the same distance. This Cape 
is situated, according to the most approved 
charts, in 19° N. Latitude and 17° W. Longi- 
tude. I have been thus particular in describing 
this bay, so that if any unfortunate mariner 
should hereafter navigate the western coast of 
Africa in distress, he might make a temporary 



158 



BOBBINS 5 JOURNAL. 



harbour in the channel running within it, near 
She Cape, which I think he might do with safety, 
excepting in a northwest and westerly wind. 

Upon the 6th, after the usual ceremony of 
worshipping, which was performed precisely in 
the manner of the Wiled Lebdessebah, my master 
asked me of what nation I was. It would have 
been in vain to try to convince him that I came 
from a continent three thousand miles to the 
west, the natives upon the desert, in general, 
having not the least idea of the existence of the 
American continent. I therefore told him I was 
Inglesis, which they understand. He then asked, 
Soo-mook en tar ? what's your name ? I told him 
Robbins. He pronounced it the same as Ganus, 
Robbinis. He asked if Inglesis be better thgii 
Fransah? I told him they were both bono. He 
continued to ask me if I had a father and mother, 
brothers and sisters, wife and children. I an- 
swered all in the affirmative, meaning to affect 
his feelings if he had any, which cannot more 
readily be done, than by talking of wives and 
children. I thought the deception a very inno- 
cent one ; nor was il altogether without effect ; 
as he immediately said, we will go to Swcahrah ; 
it being the same place which we call Mogadore, 
and the place where all the ransoms are effect- 
ed. He then left me with another man, with 
whom 1 went out to see them fish and assist in 
the service. They start at low water, and cross 
over the neck or point running into the bay, to 
the outer bay, carrying with them the fishing 
utensils and a sufficient quantity of wood to cook 
a meal with, and a skin of water They some- 



ROBBUSS' JOURNAL 159 

times return as the tide comes in, although they 
generally continue out for two tides, lodging up- 
on the point of land, and cooking their fish upon 
the sand. Each one has a small net to carry 
hence the fish that are taken, I was loaded 
with them, and obliged to transport them as 
much as seven miles through the deep sand, 
sinking often to my knees. I sometimes sunk 
down with excessive fatigue, and was compelled 
to stop ; while the natives, possessing strength 
almost beyond human, would bound over the 
sand with the greatest ease. For this I became 
an object of their scorn, and sometimes of their 
resentment. Upon returning to the tents or huts, 
some fish are cooked. What remain, are dress- 
ed by splitting open the backs, and taking out 
the inwards ; then gashing them cross-wise, and 
laying them out to dry. They rarely become 
tainted although they are never salted. Indeed, 
salt is scarcely ever used by Arabs in preserving 
or cooking any thing. During the tw r o preceding 
months, I had not used a particle of it. The rays 
of the sun are so powerful, that fresh meat and 
fresh fish are dried so suddenly that putrefac- 
tion is always prevented ; unless, which is more 
generally the case, it is prevented by the imme- 
diate consumption of all the meat and fish that 
falls in the way of the natives. At this place, 1 
saw many black Africans, from which 1 conclu 
ded we were not far from the Senegal river. 

We remained at this bay, and at this employ 
ment, until the 9th. I began to think I was 
about to become a slavish fisherman during life ; 
and by affecting ignorance of every part of the 



160 



JROBBINS' JOURNAL. 



duty imposed upon me, and shewing a good 
portion of obstinacy, the natives soon found that 
the small benefit they derived from my labour 
cost more than it would fetch. Upon the last 
mentioned day, as I was returning with a load oi 
fish, I discovered a number of the natives com- 
ing towards us in the bay. We stopped, and 
concealed our fish as well as we could. The 
natives came to us ; and although I had aban- 
doned all ideas of ever again seeing any of my 
ship-mates, I recognized Barrett among them. It 
was nearly two months since I had seen him. 
We could hardly persuade ourselves that we 
were actually in each others presence. — Barrett 
had become fat, and looked as hearty as a Yan- 
kee seaman need to. He said he had been sta- 
tioned at a fish-place about seven miles north of 
this place, for three weeks. He had been out 
into the deserts with his master's brother, and 
had been retaken, and was now returning with 
him. He said he had learned nothing of any of 
the crew, excepting Mr. Williams, since he saw 
ne upon the 14th of September. I communica- 
ted to him the good fortune of Capt. Riley, Mr. 
Savage, Clarke, Burns, and Horace. He said he 
had but little hopes of getting clear himself, al- 
though he could not conceive why the curbed 
creatures wanted to keep him, as he was not ot 
the least service to them. I told him that was 
the great grounds of my hope ; and advised 
him to follow my present example, in being as 
useless as possible, to be ignorant and obsti- 
nate ; and in this way, induce them to carry us 
to the great place of sale* and of redemption— 



ROBBINS* JOURNAL. 161 

Mogadore. I inquired after Mr. Williams. He 
told me he was much better than when I last saw 
him j that his health and spirits had been in a 
considerable degree restored ; that they both 
continued slaves to their first master, and would 
probably remain with him. Our interview was 
but a short one. 

I have but little doubt, that Mr. Williams and 
Barrett, if living, still remain at the same fish- 
place. This is not a mere conjecture ; for at 
the time of my redemption at Mogadore, sixteen 
months after this time, the Hon. William Will- 
shire informed me, that he had learned that 
two Christian slaves were upon an island near a 
fish-place, far to the southward, upon the west- 
ern coast of Africa ; that he had sent an express, 
to find them, if possible, and bring them to him 
that they might be redeemed. The name of 
this gentleman will hereafter be mentioned in 
this narration ; but I cannot, even here, omit to 
express my highest admiration of his exalted 
character. After we returned to the huts, I as- 
sured my master that I could not sustain life in 
the employment I was in, and he assured me 
that I should, the next day, go off with him. 

At about this time, I dispensed with the use 
of my string by which I was enabled, in count- 
ing the knots I daily tied therein, to ascertain 
the day of the month and of my bondage ; and 
as no possible benefit can be derived from a 
continuation of dates, excepting that of months, 
or general periods, I shall omit them. I had 
not at this time, from either the Lebdessebah, or 
Wiled D'leim* learned whether they had any re- 



162 



ROBBINS JOURNAL. 



gular manner of keeping the smaller divisions of 
time, as hours, days, weeks or months ; but I 
afterwards became familiar with their calendar, 
when I became stationary at Wadinoon. The 
Arabs, at this place, are steady residents ; as 
they have no means of travelling, neither tents 
nor camels, but have there erected the small 
huts or wigwams before mentioned. They have 
among them considerable flocks of goats from 
which they obtain some milk, and small asses 
with which they transport fresh water for a short 
distance. These animals subsist upon the coarse 
sea grass that grows within the bay, and the 
small quantity of bushes that grow in the vicini- 
ty of it. I never saw either ass or goat upon 
the deserts, as they could not there subsist with- 
out a constant supply of water. The camel, as 
is well known, can subsist without that article 
from twenty to thirty days, from the immense 
quantity they receive into the chest at the wa- 
tering places. There are, I learned, a number 
of these fish-places upon the coast from Cape 
Mirik to Cape Blanco, which are all occupied 
as the one just described by stationary Arabs. 
The wandering Arabs are constantly resorting 
to them for supplies of fish, and at the same pla- 
ces can furnish themselves with water. 

Having remained at this fish-place for five 
days, my master Meaarah took me off with him 
to traverse once more the desert of Zahara. He 
commenced by travelling in a southeast direc- 
tion, and upon the first night reached his own 
tent. We had a very fleet camel, and having 
started at day-light 9 and riding till dark without 



ROB BINS' JOURNAL* 163 

dismounting, we must have travelled at least 
sixty miles. Upon reaching the tent, I found 
that of my master and those situated near it 
were much larger and better than I had ever 
before seen. My masters return was welcomed 
by every demonstration of joy. This was in- 
creased by seeing a quantity of fish, and carried 
to the highest pitch when they found me there 
as a slave. The whole family seemed anxious 
to make my situation as comfortable as possible ; 
some offered me fish; some milk, and some wa- 
ter; and the joy of the party was so excessive, 
that they seemed to u take no thought for the 
morrow,*' having devoured almost every eatable 
thing in their possession. Witnessing the ani- 
mation and enjoyment of this family of barbari 
ans, my mind was immediately transported to 
the regions of civilization. It was about the 
season of a Connecticut Thanksgiving. In imao'i- 
nation, I saw the festive board surrounded by 
my refined, grateful and happy friends. I could 
see the eyes of parents, beaming with benignity 
upon their visiting children, blessing heaven for 
the gift of them, as well as for the luxuries that 
loaded their hospitable board, rendering thanks 
that they had been blessed " in their basket and 
in their store," and that they had been preserv- 
ed once more to form the happy family. My 
heart was near bursting at this recollection. Al- 
though I was not destitute of gratitude for an un- 
expected supply, 1 was compelled to reflect that 
all my enjoyments depended upon the capricious 
whims of an Arab, and that a transition from en- 
joyment to the lowest wretchedness might befal 



164 ROBBINS' JOUKJNTAL 

me in the next twenty-four hours. Well might I 
exclaim, " hard, hard is my fate." 

Upon the next morning, I found my master's 
family consisted of his wife, Fatima ; one son, 
Adullah; one daughter, named Tilah; and an- 
other, Murmooah; his brother, about twenty, 
Mid-Mohamote. Another small tent was occu- 
pied by Fatima 's mother, also named Fatima, and 
her brother, named Ilia-Mecca. They also had 
a teacher in the family supported by Meaarah, 
wholly without labour, excepting the labour of 
teaching the family. His name was Mahomet. 
They also had a black female slave, of the Gui- 
nea tribe. My master was possessed of sixty- 
eight camels ; some of which were of the most 
superior kind. Six of them gave milk, furnish- 
ing a tolerable supply for the family. As is al- 
ways the case with a Christian slave, my portion 
was less than that of a member of the family. 

Although in many different publications, the 
camel is minutely described, so important an 
animal must not be passed over without a brief 
description here. The natives, as a general 
name, call camels Lillahilts ; the male, Izhmael ; 
the female, JVaig. The male camel of the lar- 
ger kind is from twenty to twenty-five hands high. 
He measures from the nose, to the root of the 
tail, about eleven feet. The body is deepest 
from the shoulder to the brisket, and, unless re 
cently filled with water, will girth the most just 
back of the fore legs. This admeasurement is 
not meant to include the hump, that being a 
kind of excrescence rising eight or ten inches 
above the back bone. The body gradually di- 



R0BB1NS' JOURNAL. 165 

minishes in size until it comes to the loins, which 
are very small for so large an animal. The neck 
is very low upon the breast, growing out between 
the shoulder blades ; it then descends a little, 
then rises almost perpendicularly, being from 
the lower part of the bow of the neck, to the top 
of the head, about five feet. The head is car- 
ried horizontally ; the nose, top of the head, 
and hump, making a direct line. The eyes are 
very prominent, and so placed upon the side of 
the head as to discern objects in every direction. 
They have a peculiar mildness, and indicate 
great sagacity for an animal. The ear is very 
small, and stands nearly erect. The limbs are 
straight and smooth, but have large strong joints. 
The hoof is the greatest curiosity in this animal. 
It is soft and yields to the slightest pressure, 
having a very small split in the fore part of it, 
the points of which are of a harder substance. 
It has before been mentioned that these feet or 
hoofs are remarkably calculated to travel in 
deep sand and upon the hardest stones. The 
tail is smooth and short, and is carried between 
the legs. The hair of the camel, excepting 
what grows upon the hump and neck, is fine, 
short, and smooth, having a very handsome ap- 
pearance. That upon the hump and neck is 
coarser and curly, and from six to eight inches 
in length. This long hair is sheared off annual- 
ly, and with it the natives make tent-cloth and 
coarse clothing. Their colour is from white to 
a reddish brown. He is an animal of the great- 
est docility ; lies down and rises at the com- 
mand of his master ; at the same command 



168 BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 

slackens or hastens his pace. When alive, he 
transports his master, his baggage, his food, 
drink, and slaves, from one part of the desert to 
another ; when dead, every particle of him fur- 
nishes food, excepting his bones, and his hide 
furnishes leather for almost every purpose. In- 
deed, it is melancholy to reflect that such a no- 
ble animal should subserve the purposes of the 
most debased of men. 

In the morning, after reaching the tent of my 
master, the camels were distributed around in 
the adjoining country, and were generally in the 
keeping of llla-Mecca. The country had about 
the same appearance as those parts of the de- 
sert so often mentioned ; small sand hills and 
shallow vallies. The bushes were very small 
and thinly scattered, and it required a conside- 
rable extent of it to recruit the camels. We re- 
mained stationary at this place for six days. 
During this time my master seemed generally 
inclined to remain in, or near his tent. At about 
sun-rise, the Mahometan service was invariably 
performed by the whole family. I was urgently 
invited to join in the service, but, adhering to my 
previous resolution, I always declined it, think- 
ing it sacrilege to offer up worship to a prophet 
whose followers shew so little of humanity in 
their practice. The teacher generally took the 
lead, in this service ; their teachers being gene- 
rally of the Mahometan priesthood. He had a 
number of very old volumes into which I often 
looked, but the letters and characters were as 
unintelligible to me as the hand-writing upon ¥ 
the wall was to Belshazzar. When he began to 



BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 167 

read, it was at what I should call the end of the 
volume, reading from right to left. 

The mode of instructing the children in read- 
ing, is by writing with a reed a few characters 
upon a smooth, white board, about the size of a 
cyphering slate. He then, with an audible 
voice, pronounces them, and calls upon the child 
to do the same. In this manner the child is 
taught their alphabet. He then writes out 
words ; spelling them, and the children follow 
his example. From this he proceeds to write 
sentences, and teaches the children to read 
them. After they have progressed thus far, the 
whole of the children, under instruction, are fur- 
nished each with a board, and read together 
aloud, keeping very exact time. The teacher 
corrects them when in an error, and administers 
punishment when obstinate. These sentences 
they are taught to commit to memory, and to re- 
peat without the assistance of the board. Ma- 
ny of the sentences, although I could not well 
understand the language, were the same as I of- 
ten heard repeated over in their religious cere- 
monies. From the antiquated appearance of the 
volume from which they were taken ; from the 
same being used in worship, and from the pecu- 
liar solemnity of the teacher and the pupil, 
while repeating them, but little doubt can exist 
but that they were taken from the Koran in the 
original tongue. This is the universal method 
of teaching children, when they are taught at 
all, upon the desert, and at the large schools at 
Wadinoon. 

Writing is taught by drawing upon the board 



168 ROBBINS' JOURNAju. 

a few single characters. The pen is made with 
a piece of flat reed, hollowed upon the inside 
to contain the ink, and sharpened to a single 
point. The child is taught to imitate the cha- 
racters set as a copy. Children at twelve, who 
have been taught regularly, can read and write 
with considerable facility. When at rest, the 
hours of instruction are three hours very early 
in the morning, and three toward night. When 
upon a journey, the lesson given must be learn- 
ed either before or after the day's journey, the 
teacher being extremely strict ; although the 
children seem to consider their task as a plea- 
sure rather than a burthen. This was the first 
instruction I ever saw given among the Arabs. 
During my slavery with the Lebdessebah, I never 
saw even a book, and never witnessed the least 
attempt among them to impart instruction. Nor 
did I while with the Wiled DUeirn, ever see but 
one instructer besides this one in MeaaraKs 
family. 

My master, during the time we were station- 
ary, frequently endeavoured to initiate me into 
the mysteries of tending camels. As I have 
mentioned before, I found it best to perform the 
common and ordinary duties of a slave with ap- 
parent cheerfulness and alacrity; but, as I did 
at the fish-place, I was determined to resist any 
attempt to make me a camel tender, or to im- 
pose upon me any steady duty in the perform- 
ance of which I might raise my value in their es- 
timation, as this would probably lengthen my 
slavery ; and in the same proportion as I be- 
came useless to them, would be their desire to 



ROT3B1NS' JOURNAL. 169 

get rid of me, and increase the chances of my 
redemption. I however went out with my mas- 
ter one day, and he tried to instruct me how to 
assist Ma-Mecca in camel keeping. Although it 
was nothing but standing on elevated ground, 
keeping sight of the beasts, and driving them 
back when straying off, yet I convinced my mas- 
ter that I could not possibly learn the duty, and 
would not perform it. He did not, at this time, 
attempt again to impose it upon me. 

CHAP. XV. 

A long journey — Porter — locusts^ mode of catching y cooking 
and eating them — narrcrm escape — Mohammedan teacher— 
blacksmith upon the desert — salt-bed — debility approaching tc 
death. 

AFTER the expiration of six days, we started 
upon a journey, and continued generally to tra- 
vel, upon an average, forty miles a day. This 
we continued to do for eight days. It is impos- 
sible to describe the different courses we tra- 
velled, as they were constantly shifting; but the 
general course led us easterly into the interior. 
To describe that portion of the Zahara desert 
over which we passed would be but a repetition 
of what was said when travelling with the Wiled 
Lebdessebah. For some distance the countiy 
would have gentle hills and shallow vallies, in- 
termixed with sand and stones; and then it 
would present to you a plain, apparently with- 
out limits, terminated on every part by the hori 
zon. We subsisted, during this time, upon ca 
toel's milk and water, added to a few snails 

P 



170 ROBBLNS- JOURNAL. 

found upon the passage. We were frequently 
met by tents, and large droves of camels ; and 
almost every passenger of respectable appear- 
ance paid attention to my master Meaarah and 
mistress Fatima. She received many visits, and 
was particularly attentive to her guests. She, 
and indeed all the females belonging to this fa- 
mily, were elegantly dressed in the Arab style ; 
having a redundancy of the most beautiful shells 
suspended from their braided hair, which was 
always covered with a blue turban. Their blan- 
kets were of a superior kind. . 

Upon the eighth day of travelling, we came to 
an immense country of sand. At night a camel 
was slaughtered in the same manner as before 
described ; some part of it was sliced thinly and 
dried, and lasted for two or three days. Our 
course was now shifted a little to the northward, 
still carrying us into the interior. After travel- 
ling for four days we came to a small valley or 
basin, into which considerable water had set- 
tled from a recent rain. Our tent was pitched 
upon the rising ground, overlooking it. A great 
number of tents were situated in the valley, 
some belonging to the Wiled Lebdessebah, and 
some to the Wiled D'leim, these two tribes, at 
this time, being at peace with each other. Among 
them was Porter's master, and Porter himself 
He had regained his health, and, like me, enter- 
tained some hopes that we might escape from 
bondage. He asked me the season of the year 
having entirely forgotten it. I told him it was 
the last of November. In and about this valley 
were great flights of locusts. During the day 



BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 171 

time, they are flying around very thick in the at- 
mosphere, but the copious dews and chilly air, 
in the night season, render them unable to fly, 
and they settle down upon the bushes. It was 
the constant employ of the natives in the night 
season to gather these insects from the bushes, 
which they did in great quantities. My master's 
family, each with a small bag, went out the first 
night upon this employ, carrying a very large 
bag to bring home the fruits of their labour. My 
mistress Fatima, however, and the two little 
children remained in the tent. I declined this 
employ, and retired to rest under the large tent. 
The next day, the family returned loaded with 
locusts, and judging from the quantity produced 
by the eye, there must have been as many as 
fifteen bushels. This may appear to be a large 
quantity to be gathered in so short a time ; but 
it is hardly worth mentioning when compared 
with the loads of them gathered sometimes in 
the more fertile part of the country, over which 
they pass, leaving a track of desolation behind 
them. But as they were the first, in any consi- 
derable quantity, that I had seen, and the first I 
had seen cooked and eaten, I mention it in this 
place ; hoping hereafter to give my readers 
more particular information concerning these 
wonderful and destructive insects ; which, from 
the days of Moses to this time, have been con- 
sidered by Jews and Mahometans as the most 
severe judgment w r hich heaven can inflict upon 
man. But whatever the Egyptians might have 
thought in ancient days, or the Moors and Arabs 
in those of modern date, the Arabs who are com- 



- 172 



ROBBING' JOURNAL. 



pelled to inhabit the desert of Zahara, so far 
from considering a flight of locusts as a judg* 
ment upon them for their transgressions, wel- 
come their approach as the means, sometimes, of 
saving them from famishing with hunger. The 
whole that were brought to the tent at this time 
were cooked when alive, as indeed they always 
are, for a dead locust is never cooked. The 
manner of cooking is, by digging a deep hole in 
the ground, building a fire at the bottom, as be- 
fore described, and filling it with wood. After 
it is heated as hot as is possible, the coals and 
embers are taken out, and they prepare to fill 
the cavity with the locusts, confined in a large 
bag. A sufficient number of natives hold the bag 
perpendicularly over the hole, the mouth of it 
being near the surface of the ground. A number 
stand around the hole with sticks. The mouth 
of the bag is then opened, and it is shaken with 
great force, the locusts falling into the hot pit, 
and the surrounding natives throwing sand up- 
on them to prevent them from flying off. The 
mouth of the hole is then covered with sand, and 
another fire built upon the top of it. In this 
manner they cook all they have on hand, and 
dig a number of holes sufficient to accomplish it, 
each containing about five bushels. They re- 
main in the hole until they become sufficiently 
cooled to take out by the hand. They are then 
picked out, and thrown upon tent-cloths, or 
blankets, and remain in the sun to dry, where 
they must be watched with the utmost care, to 
prevent the live locusts from devouring them, it 
a flight happen to be passing at the time. When 



BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 173 

thpy are perfectly dried, which is not done short 
of two or three days, they are slightly pounded 
and pressed into bags or skins, ready for trans- 
portation. To prepare them to eat, they are 
pulverized in mortars, and mixed with water 
sufficient to make a kind of dry pudding. They 
are, however, sometimes eaten singly without 
pulverizing, by breaking off the head, wings^ 
and legs, and swallowing the remaining part. 
In whatever manner they are eaten, they are 
nourishing food. All the while we remained at 
this valley, the natives were employed in gather- 
ing and cooking locusts. I cannot omit an inci- 
dent at this valley, which came nigh to ending 
my slavery and my existence. I was command- 
ed to sling a large water goat skin upon my 
back, and carry it to the tent. Upon letting it 
down when 1 arrived, my fatigue, and its great 
weight, occasioned it to fall and burst open. My 
master, with savage ferocity, ran toward me with 
an uplifted Arab axe, and, aiming at my head, 
would, without the least doubt, have severed it 
from my body, had not my mistress Fatima, leap- 
ed between him and me, and warded off the in- 
tended blow. From this time my master, who 
had before shewn some tokens of feeling, began 
to exercise toward me a systematic cruelty. 

We remained at this valley until the water in 
it was dried up, and then made preparations for 
departure. I often saw Porter, while there, and 
left him there when I was taken off We travel- 
led to the northwest from day to day. I began 
to grow weak, and my flesh wasted away. I had 
nothing to eat but fresh locusts, there being no 



174 



flOBBINS' JOURNAL, 



salt with the family. The blanket around my 
middle, hanging down as low as my knees, wore 
the flesh entirely off from the cords of my legs, 
leaving them entirely bare. This was occasioned 
by constant travelling. After sleeping upon the 
sand, a few hours, and rising upon my legs, the 
blood gushed out of my excoriated and dried 
flesh. My master viewed this with the indiffer- 
ence of a savage, when witnessing the contor 
tions of his victim. After travelling with great 
rapidity for ten days in this manner, we arrived 
upon the coast, after passing the dried bed of a 
considerable river. This, from a careful exami- 
nation of the best charts, I feel confident was the 
river St. Cyprian, near which we first landed in 
the boat. What confirmed this opinion was, the 
coabi, in its general appearance, was very simi- 
lar to that upon which we landed. 

The time of our arrival there must have been 
about the 10th of December. Here our tent was 
pitched for the first time, since we left the valley 
of locusts. We remained here but one night, ha- 
ving obtained a supply of water. We then tra- 
velled two days, in a northeast direction, and 
pitched our tents. The country was of the 
same general description, as the other parts ol 
the desert. We remained here six days. The 
teacher, during the whole time I had been a slave 
to the cruel Meaarah, assiduously continued his 
instruction, and maintained his dignity with the 
whole family. Even my master stood in awe 
before him. He often, in the most urgent man- 
ner, pressed upon me the necessity of renounc- 
ing the heresy of Christianity, and becoming a 



ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 175 

good Mussulman. He manifested the most 
sovereign contempt for the Christian religion, 
and often denounced me as a Jcellup en-sahrau. He 
expressed the utmost horror at the idea of eat- 
ing pork ; considering a hog as possessed of the 
devil, and those who eat it, as possessed of him 
also. He laid every inducement before me to 
espouse his faith ; promising me the possession 
of wealth, and power, and wives upon earth, and 
eternal felicity and sensual enjoyment in para- 
dise with the divine prophet MahommecL 

While here, I saw, for the first time, an Arab 
blacksmith. He has his anvil carried upon the 
camel. It is about four inches in diameter upon 
the top, tapering dow r n to a point. This he puts 
into a piece of a block, the largest he can find 
upon the deserts, where nothing but small tim- 
ber grow r s. His fire is built in a shallow hole, 
dug in the ground, into which he puts his coal. 
His bellows is made of a goat-skin, with a han- 
dle fixed to the top of it. As he pulls the handle 
up, the air enters it; as he forces it down, the 
air is pressed out at the point of it into the 
coals, which blows them up to a fire. He then 
puts in his iron, which is soon heated. He then, 
with a clumsy sort of hammer, draws out the 
piece of iron in his hand, to any shape which is 
necessary. With this, he makes irons for a sad- 
dle, an axe, or any other iron tool which the 
Arabs wish to make use of; the whole being 
made in the most bungling manner. In this way, 
he makes the needles with which the natives sew 
their tent cloths together, and do all the neces- 
sary sewing in the family, unless, by accident r 



176 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 

they can procure needles better manufactured 
They make their coal by digging a hole in the 
ground, and throwing into it the largest wood 
they can find. This is burned into charcoal. 

The locust food was nearly exhausted. The 
water grew r short, and the camels gave but little 
milk ; and I hardly had a sufficiency of suste- 
nance to support life. My debility and weak- 
ness was such, as almost to deprive me of the 
power of walking about. Upon the last day my 
master remained at this place, I wandered slow 
ly off to a neighbouring tent, where I was sup- 
plied with some w r ater. The owner of the tent 
was an old and rich Arab, having a tent abun- 
dantly furnished. He shewed me pieces of mo- 
ney of silver and gold, and asked me my opinion 
of their value. Among them were doubloons. 
I told him one doubloon was worth sixteen of the 
dollars which he shewed me/ He told me they 
were taken out of a sfenah (a vessel) upon the 
coast. As some of the money was in doubloons, 
and as we had no such money aboard the Com- 
merce, I concluded some other American or 
European vessel might have been lately wreck- 
ed upon the coast. 

Upon the next morning our tents were struck, 
and preparations were made for a journey. I 
knew not how I could endure it ; but I was com- 
pelled to travel, and run the risk of dying with 
fatigue, or remain and perish with hunger. We 
travelled in an eastern direction ; and upon the 
first day's journey we passed a small deep val- 
ley, situated upon our right. The bottom of it 
was filled with water ; but as my master told me 



ROBBlNS* JOURNAL. 177 

it was salt, I did not attempt to drink it. Upon 
the borders of the basin that contained the wa- 
ter, was lying, in great quantities, very clear and 
white salt. It excited my astonishment, as we 
were, at least, one hundred miles from the sea. 
If a conjecture might be ventured, there must 
have been a subterranean passage from the sea 
to this valley ; and as the water, which some- 
times filled it, dried away, it was converted into 
salt. I have been cautious, thus far, in making 
conjectures of my own, or repeating the stories 
of others ; — and shall continue to exercise that 
caution, determining to relate nothing but what 
has evidence sufficient to induce a belief in its 
probability, if not in its certainty. In the even- 
ing of the first day's journey, Meaarah slaugh- 
tered a camel. My weakness increased ; and 
travelling rapidly and sleeping in the open air 
without any covering, occasioned the most ex- 
treme distress. From recollecting the number 
of days we were upon different journeys, and al- 
so the number upon which we rested, this must 
have been the latter part of December, the cold 
having increased to a considerable degree. The 
next day we bore more to the northward, travel- 
ling moderately, until late in the evening. When 
we stopped, fuel was necessary to cook with, 
but no dry bushes could be readily found. Af- 
ter seeking some time for them, I returned to the 
tent, destitute of them, and almost wholly ex- 
hausted with fatigue. Meaarah came at me fu- 
riously with a knife, pointing it toward my throat. 
I fled out again and procured a few dry sticks, 
compelled again to sleep in the cold air 



178 



KOBBINS* JOURNAL. 



without the least shelter or covering. Upon the 
next day, I travelled till about noon, and drop- 

Fed down upon the ground, and was left alone, 
gazed round, but from dimness and dizziness, 
could see neither tent, camel, nor human being. 
I attempted to walk, but was wholly unable to 
move. My master at length came and led me 
to the tentj which was pitched. Some warm 
milk was given to me, into which was put a con- 
siderable quantity of dried weed, which the na- 
tives generally carry about with them ; although 
it may be gathered in almost every part of the 
desert. It gave to the miik a sharp bitter taste, 
and relieved me from the costiveness with which 
I had been much troubled from eating hard boil- 
ed blood, and baked locusts. At night I was 
permitted to have a small piece of tent-cloth for 
a covering. The herb given to me operated as 
a cathartic. The next day I was placed upon .a 
camel, with a rolled tent cloth upon one side, 
and a watering tub upon the other, to keep me 
from falling off! In this manner I continued to 
travel with the family seven days, during which 
time I was not allowed to eat meat of any kind^ 
but was supplied with milk warm from the ca- 
mel. As there was a good supply of camel's 
meat, I conclude, the reason why it was refused 
to me was on account of my health, being alrea- 
dy unfit for market from the leanness of my bo- 
dy. I, however, found an opportunity to roast a 
small piece of raw hide rope, and eat it. For 
these seven days we travelled a southeast course; 
at the end of which we came to a low piece of 
marshy ground, which had upon it bushes and 



ROB 13 INS' JOURNAL. J 79 

staddles of considerable size, and also standing 
water. The tents were pitched, and in the vi 
cinity were situated about forty other tents, 

CHAP. XVI. 

Medical practice — Hogan and Dick — sale of Porter — happiness 
in Zahara — author regains his health — is sold to Hamet Web- 
ber, an Arab merchant of the Wiled El Kabla — African and 
European merchandise — an expected battle — gunnery — fe- 
males of the El Kabla tribe, 

January, 1816. 
IT was now from my best calculation, the first 
week in January. The tents remained station- 
ary for four days, upon the first of which, a ca- 
mel was slain; with the fat part of which Meaa^ 
rah procured a small skin full of dates, the first 
I had seen. These the Arabs call T'murr. They 
are a sweet nourishing food, and the few allow- 
ed me tasted deliciously. I was now literally 
reduced to a skeleton. The irritation of the 
blanket around my middle, and sleeping upon 
sand and hard ground, had worn the skin entire- 
ly off my hip-bones, leaving them visible; indeed, 
this was the case with all the prominent bones 
in my body. I was completely dried up ; and 
the skin was contracted and drawn tight around 
my bones. Although I had seen many human 
beings reduced to bones and sinews before, I 
certainly never saw one so poor as I was myself. 
I was in no danger of inflammatory diseases, as 
there was nothing about me to be inflamed, un- 
less a conflagration should have been made of 
my dried carcass; and this I was in danger of 



180 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 

from the mode of practice adopted by the Isk- 
maelitish faculty. They heated the blade of a 
long tent-knife — stripped me bare — held me in 
a perpendicular posture — and, with the edge 
of the hot knife began to strike gently upon my 
shin-bones, and continued to chop the whole of 
the front part of my frame. I felt not the least 
pain from this operation ; indeed I w as no more 
a subject of pain than an actual skeleton in the 
office of a surgeon. They repeated this opera- 
tion daily, and began to afford me a little meat. 
In the course of three or four days, I became 
able to move slowly about— the blood began to 
circulate, and strength began to return. This was 
the mode of practice, and this was the result of 
it. Whether it was Galvanism or Perhinism, I 
leave to the Italian and American faculty to de- 
termine. 

At the end of four days, the tents were struck, 
and a journey commenced toward the northward. 
Upon the first day, we passed a hill upon our 
right, upon the shelving rocks of which, was 
trickling dow r n salt water, leaving particles oi 
salt upon the rocks. We were descending into 
a very long and deep valley, where the tents 
were pitched as we halted. The rainy season 
had commenced ; and the wandering Arabs, of 
various tribes, were bending to the northward 
and eastward, in numerous parties. The valley 
looked like a city of tents ; there being, at least, 
three hundred situated in it. Toward night, 
Meaarah told me I should see Joe ; and I soon 
after, once more, beheld my ship-mate in mis- 
fortune. Porter had, a few days before, been 



ROBBINS' JOURJVAL. 181 

sold to a trading Arab, and said he had thei. 
hopes o r going to Swearah, (Mogadore) where 
his ransom would be certain. He said, he, a few 
days before, had seen Hogan and Dick ; that 
they had also been sold to a trading Arab — that 
Dick was worn out and left, probably to perish, 
and that Hogan and his master went off in a 
southeast direction. This large valley ran near- 
ly east and west, about half a mile in width, 
bounded upon each side by high ranges of hills. 
We continued in it for six days, moving mode- 
rately through it to the east, in company with 
two or three hundred tents. Among these were 
a number of trading Arabs, from Lower Suse, ha- 
ving blankets, tobacco, dates, powder, blue cot- 
tons, &e. One came to my master's tents, and 
examined me with a view of purchasing ; but 
said I was too poor — that I should not live to 
reach Swearah. I begged of him to buy me; but 
he declined. Meaarah told me to walk about 
and be active, or I never should be sold. I would 
gladly had I been able, have done this, or any 
thing else to induce a sale. At the end of six 
days, we reached the east end of this wonderful 
valley, which then branched into two smaller 
ones. It w r as altogether the most fertile part of 
Africa that I had vet seen. It had, for the whole 
length, green grass, and bushes in abundance. 
Long hills of rocks and sand limited it upon each 
side. As I was passing through it, I thought it 
the most striking prospect I had ever seen. 
There must have been travelling through it, and 
at no great distance from our tent, as many as 
twelve hundred natives. As we passed gently 

O 



182 



ROBBIx^S' JOURNAL. 



along, the natives were constantly chanting a 
kind of harmonious song, cheering up Ihe load 
ed camels like the perpetual jingling of bells 
The camels had a supply of food from the grass 
and the bushes : and the natives also were fur- 
nished with their meat and their milk. The lit- 
tle streamlets from the hills supplied them with 
water. The different families and parties inter- 
changed civilities peculiar to themselves. They 
had a fruition of present enjoyments, and expec- 
tations of a future supply. They worshipped, in 
large parties, four times a day. Their tents were 
pitched with cheerfulness at night, and with 
cheerfulness were struck in the morning. I could 
not see how this life could afford more happiness 
than they apparently enjoyed. But / was a slave ! ! 
subject to their capricious whims, and barbarous 
cruelty. I was a kcllup cn-sahrau — and to slay me, 
might be thought as offering an acceptable sacri- 
fice to Mahommcd. Porter was also in the par- 
ty. He and I were the only beings present, that 
ever enjoyed the blessings and freedom of civi- 
lization. Every appearance evinced the fact 
that this valley, in the midst of the rainy season, 
is filled to a considerable height with water. 

After leaving this extraordinary valley, or ra- 
ther ravine, we continued to travel in an eastern 
course for four days, through a level and sandy 
country, passing a small stream of fresh water, 
with which the skins were filled. I gained strength 
daily, and began to do the service of a slave, al- 
though yet very feeble. Upon the fourth day, I 
was sold to a trading Arab. Meaarah took me 
off to a neighbouring tent, near which I saw a 
quantity of goods. One of the traders asked me 



BOBBINS 1 JOURNAL, 183 

of wnat nation I was ? I answered, as before in- 
structed by Jfeaarah. Fransah. After a little con- 
versation. I was delivered to him as a slave. I 
understood the price for me was live camels and 
two blankets. 

My third master's name was Hornet Webber, of 
the tribe of Wiled El Kabla. a trading Arab. His 
articles of traffic were blankets, tobacco, and 
powder. Hornet had a trading Arab as a part- 
ner: and they and I constituted the family. 
They had here no tent, but received their food, 
once a day. from an adjoining one. They were 
not permitted to lodge in the tent. Indeed, it 
was an universal custom among all the tribes. I 
had yet seen, never to admit any one to lodge in 
a tent, but members of the family. This custom 
arises from the suspicion they entertain toward 
each other ; thieving being a vice to which they 
are all addicted. I was here supplied with a 
species of food I had never before seen. It was 
a thick boiled pudding, called LaisL furnished 
each night at about 11 o'clock. The next day. 
I went off with Hamet. and his partner, who had 
two camels, upon which the goods were loaded. 
We travelled but a short distance ; the goods 
were unloaded, and the camels, under my care, 
were put out to feed. I fell in with Porter, who 
was also keeping the camels of his master. Du- 
ring the next day. Hamet was engaged in gath- 
ering in the camels, for which he had bartered 
away his goods. The third day of my slavery 
with my new master, we started upon a journey 
with twenty-five camels, and one black slave, 
travelling to the eastward. Three other natives, 
with fifteen camels, joined us 5 making five Arabs. 



181 



ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 



two slaves, and fifty camels. At night a camel 
was killed and cooked. From the next morning, 
for eight days, we travelled in an easterly course, 
at about twenty miles a day. Upon the journey, 
we lived as well as men could upon camePs 
meat and milk. Hamet was very kind to me, 
supplied me with some additional clothing, and 
allowed me a sufficiency of food. My health im- 
proved and my flesh increased. At the end of 
the eight days, we halted ; and Hamet went for- 
ward in pursuit of his tent, not having seen one 
since we started. We remained here two days; 
at the end of which orders were sent to change 
our course to the northward. At the end of the 
first day's travel, we reached the tents belonging 
to the tribe of the Wiled El Kahla. There had 
been slight falls of rain for the ten days past. 
This tribe, in every respect, was the most weal- 
thy I had yet seen. They had great numbers of 
camels, some goats, sheep arid horses ; besides 
considerable quantities of African and European 
merchandise. The European goods must hav<* 
been taken from the English brig Surprise, which 
I learned, upon arriving at Wadinoon, was wreck- 
ed to the southward of that place, about the 1st 
of January, 1816. We remained at this place, 
and in the vicinity of it, for thirty days. My mas- 
ter was generally employed in trading among the 
natives, situated in the adjoining country. There 
were great numbers of tents, and the country was 
well calculated for keeping camels. They gave 
milk in abundance, and I had a full supply. It 
was the season when the camels foal their young, 
and my chief employ was to attend them. Be- 
ing at rest, and w^H supplied with lillstbent* 



ROBBINS' JOtjRiNAL. 



185 



(milk) I regained my flesh rapidly. The tents 
of the tribe to which I belonged were situated 
near the base of a considerable hill, which I of- 
ten ascended to pick a sort of green vegetable, 
totally different from any plant which I had ever 
seen. It grew out of the earth from three inch- 
es to a foot high in a square shape, without the 
least leaf attached to it. It was always green, 
and had a short beard or roughness upon its four 
corners. It had a very palatable acid in its 
taste, and the natives had the greatest fondness 
for it. 

The mode of worship in this tribe, was pre- 
cisely the same as that among the Wiled Lebdes- 
sebah, and Wiled D*leim ; and always performed 
with great devotion, four times each day. I was 
by this tribe, as by the two others, urged most 
vehemently to espouse the Mahommedan faith ; 
but, as I always had before, I positively refused 
a compliance, and do not know that I suffered 
any additional cruelty from this refusal. The 
tribe of Wiled El Kabla were much better arm- 
ed, than either of the others to which I had be- 
longed ; having many valuable double-barrelled 
muskets, and many single-barrelled Moorish 
muskets. They were more warlike as a tribe, 
and less cruel as individuals, than any Arabs 1 
had seen. After remaining at this place a num- 
ber of days, great alarm and consternation w r as 
excited, in this tribe, by the approach, from the 
southeast, of a large armed caravan. Our ca- 
mels were all upon the opposite side of the hill, 
feeding, and it was supposed that this armed 
bodv of men were coming with a view of captu- 



186 ROBBINS' JOURNAL, 

ring them. An universal alarm was immediately 
spread throughout the whole encampment of 
tents, stretching five or six miles upon the west 
side of the hill. There must have been as ma- 
ny as six hundred tents, and three thousand na- 
tives. They had no warlike instrument with 
which they could sound an alarm ; but this was 
well supplied by the hooting and screaming of 
the female Arabs. The echo of this universal 
hooting, over the hills, was to me, the most won- 
derful operation of sound. The Arab men, in 
the mean time, were sounding dreadful " notes 
of preparation." The muskets, spears, scimitars, 
knives, and clubs, were all in readiness. They 
rushed, without the least order or command, to 
the top of the hill, ascending rocks to get a sight 
of the enemy, or concealing themselves behind 
them for safety. I supposed, and even hoped, I 
should see an engagement in which these lshma- 
elites, who prey upon all the rest of the world, 
would make havoc of each other; and I ascend- 
ed the hill. I was disappointed ; for immediate- 
ly the universal shout of Labez (all's well) echoed 
along the hills. Some of our tribe went down to 
the caravan, and I soon witnessed tokens of 
peace. Upon returning to the tents, I found the 
female jaws as nearly closed as nature would 
permit them to be, and tranquillity was restored. 

This tribe is remarkable for its skill in gunne- 
ry. Shooting was a common, and indeed the 
only amusement among the male Arabs. To 
manifest their skill, they place a small stone up- 
on the top of a bush. They stand about eight 
or ten rods from the mark, and fire at arm's 
length. They certainly exceed Americans in 



R0BK1NS' JOURNAL. 187 

this exercise. I very often saw them, at the first 
shot, and at a number in succession, knock off a 
stone with a single ball. I w r as sometimes a spec- 
tator; and the Arabs undoubtedly concluded 
that as I was a Christian, I was totally ignorant 
of firing. As 1 was one day witnessing their 
astonishing skill, Hamet, and many others, insist- 
ed upon my making a shot. They permitted 
me to select my musket, thinking I could not 
distinguish between one that was bono or foonta. 
Universal attention w r as paid; and William Tell 
was not more applauded for taking an apple 
from the head of his son, than I was for fetching 
the stone from the bush. Bono Robbinis ! Bono 
Robbinis ! resounded through the valley, and I 
immediately became great. Hamet slapped me 
on the shoulder, in token of approbation, and 
thought he had done well in buying me. 

The dress of this tribe, although in the great 
article of the long blanket, put on as before de- 
scribed, it is similar to the others ; yet, they al- 
most all wear a blue or white frock-shirt, falling 
below the knees. They wear the usual belts, 
and most of them slippers, and some of them 
fine rich turbans of white cloth. The female 
blankets are coloured red at the ends, with a 
thick fringe. They wear a belt around the 
waist, fastening one end of the blanket, over 
which the other end is thrown after passing over 
the shoulders, hanging upon one side, full at the 
bottom, and plaited at the waist. Upon that 
part of the blanket which covers the breast, they 
wear large silver breast-plates, upon which are 
engraved various figures and hieroglyphics, al- 
ways kept exceedingly bright. In their ears, 



188 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 

the}' wear silver hoops, some of which are as 
large as the top of a coffee-cup. Upon their 
arms, they also wear silver rings, some going on 
whole over the hand, and some fastened toge- 
ther with clasps. Upon their hair, wrists, and 
ankles, they have a redundancy of beautiful 
shells. Some of the young females have the 
most perfect symmetry in their forms, and when 
full dressed, bounding over the plains, or riding 
upon a camel, also ornamented with red breast- 
girths, and red strips of cloth, hanging from the 
elevated saddle, they might attract the eye, even 
of an American. With a weed produced upon 
the deserts the females paint their nails, their 
hands, and faces a reddish color, in various 
figures. With black lead they draw a circle 
round their eyes. 

The teachers in this tribe are numerous ; the 
mode of instruction the same as that practised 
with the Wiled D'leim. The children, belong- 
ing to this tribe, are almost all of them educa- 
ted. Like the teachers in other tribes, they ex- 
ercise great authority over the parents and chil- 
dren ; and confirmed my belief, that they are of 
the Mahommedan priesthood. They also, in this 
tribe, take the lead in their mode of worship. 

CHAP. XVII. 

A Caravan — an armed Arab — black mountains — cultivated land. 
— apprehension of danger— African serpents — Hamet joins a 
caravan which is attacked— mountains of sand—fatigue — ca- 
ravan broken up — author sold to Bel Cossim Abdullah qfWa- 
dinoon — wounded Arab — arrival at Wadinoon. 

FROM the best calculation I could make from 
the number of days we had travelled, and the 



ttOBBINS' JOURNAL. 189 

time we were stationary.it had become about the 
1st of March, 1816. Preparations were made by 
Hamet for a journey. He started with two ca- 
mels, having before disposed of all his merchan- 
dise. He however had with him a number of 
bags for grain and goods, never having carried 
a tent while 1 was with him. One of his neigh- 
bours accompanied us. Hamet and I generally 
rode one camel and he another. Our course 
was, for a few miles, to the north, when we came 
up with a large collection of tents that were 
pitched. The Arabs were preparing to form a 
caravan. They consist of different numbers of 
natives and camels. Some have fifty men and 
five hundred beasts, and they sometimes amount 
to five hundred men, and two thousand camels. 
The armed Arabs take the command of the 
whole, and travel or rest at pleasure. They ge- 
nerally go forward forming the van, although 
some of them are mixed with the unarmed ones, 
giving orders concerning the camels, the travel- 
lers, and the goods that are with them. They 
always travel in compact order. An Arab chief, 
armed for a caravan, presents to the eye of the 
beholder, a figure of the greatest boldness. He 
is six feet high. A long, black, bushy beard 
hangs from his chin to his breast. He has a 
fierce, black eye, sunk deep into his head, with 
thick, black eye-brows projecting over them. — 
His long white blanket is drawn close around 
his body, leaving his legs bare from the knee. 
Over this are cast his red belts, crossing at the 
breast and at the back. To one, is suspended 
a large transparent powder-horn, decorated with 
bands of shining brass; to the other, a leathern 



190 ROBBING JOURNAL, 

pouch, containing balls, flints, and a screw-dri- 
ver. To the other belt, is fastened the scab- 
bard, containing a long, broad, and burnished 
cutlass or scimitar. Around his waist is buckled 
a broad, red, morocco belt, of many thicknesses, 
confining the belts, that support the cutlass and 
the horn. His head is generally naked, except- 
ing a dress of black, bushy hair, although some- 
times covered with a turban. His Moorish mus- 
ket is always in his hand. Thus armed, he is 
ready, at any moment, to encounter a foe. A 
caravan is formed from various tribes, and from 
men inhabiting different parts of the continent 
of Africa. When individuals wish to travel to 
any particular place, and can find a caravan 
bound to it, they join it ; and agree to submit to 
the regulations of it, and are entitled to all the 
protection it can afford. In this way, they are 
safe, unless they should be overcome by a more 
powerful caravan. At this place, are formed 
many of the great caravans that travel, in vari- 
ous directions, across the desert. I learned, 
from the natives, that many large caravans go 
from this place to Soudan, and smaller ones to 
Wadmoon. 

Upon leaving this place, we travelled west, 
inclining northerly, and in the course of the day, 
came to a range of black mountains, stretching 
to the southwest as far as the eye could discern ; 
extending also a great distance to the northeast. 
These mountains we passed, sometimes in val- 
lies intersecting them, and sometimes we ascen- 
ded to their summits. Between these mountains 
we came to small patches of cultivated land, up- 
on which was growing a species of barley, which 



ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 191 

will hereafter be described. This was the first 
cultivated land I had seen in Africa, although I 
had, seemingly, travelled in every point in the 
compass. Without stopping to inquire what 
[shmaelite it belonged to, our party, consisting 
now of eight persons, deliberately cut and roast- 
ed a sufficient quantity for present refreshment. 
Continuing on our journey, until sun-set, we 
reached a long range of tents, containing two 
hundred, situated upon the side of a hill, where 
we tarried through the night. The next day we 
found that we had came to a part of the tribe of 
Wiled Abboassebah. I learned, that this was the 
original tribe of the ElKabla, from which the latter 
was formed into a new one. The number of ca- 
mels, in the neighbourhood cf the tents, was im- 
mense. Judging from droves which I had before 
6een, the numbers of which I knew, there cer- 
tainly must have been five thousand. While 1 
was here, I saw great consternation excited at 
the approach of a small party of Arabs, suppo- 
sed to be a clan in pursuit of camels. They were 
driven rapidly together to be guarded. We 
started early in the morning, and travelled 
through a bushy and grassy country. At about 
noon, we came to a piece of ground having thin 
low grass. We were travelling very moderately 
upon a walk, when my attention was attracted 
by a large shining black snake. He was coiled 
round regularly like a cable ; his head rising 
from the centre about four inches high. Upon 
coming very near to the serpent, he directed his 
eyes towards me, and flattened his head. I told 
Hamet what I saw, and he immediately alarmed 
me, telling me to sheer off in an instant; which 1 



192 



ROBBINS* JOURNAL. 



did, without waiting to give him a further ex- 
amination, which I was about to do. From what 
I soon learned, I found that by acquiring a mi- 
nute knowledge of this venomous reptile, I should 
certainly have lost my life. I cannot tell its 
length, from the situation it w r as in, no otherwise 
than by saying that it was about the size of a 
chair pummel, and coiled, as it was, it made a 
circle about as large as the top of a half bushel. 
At eight or ten miles distance, we saw another of 
the same size and appearance, but I was no 
ways disposed to add to the little knowledge I 
had previously obtained of African serpents. At 
night we put up amidst a great number of tents, 
situated near a small stream of water. The next 
day we discovered a small caravan coming from 
the south-east toward the tents where we lodg- 
ed. It had about two hundred and fifty camels, 
and fifteen armed Arabs, mounted upon fleet 
Arabian horses. Our party joined it ; and as it 
passed the tents, the ow r ners of them assailed 
the caravan, cutting from the camels the meat, 
bowls, and other articles loaded upon them. 
The armed Arabs of our caravan, with drawn 
scimitars, soon dispersed them. I was mounted 
upon a good camel, and put him into full speed ; 
not wishing to be stolen from my worthy master 
Hamet. The whole caravan bounded over the 
plain with amazing velocity, the savages firing 
upon us from the tents, till we were out of sight. 
No lives were lost in our party ; but without 
doubt, the Mahometans at the tents had to per- 
form the funeral service over the bodies of some 
of their companions. We travelled through the 
day, upon the dry bed of a river twenty or thir- 



BOBBINS 5 JOURNAL. 193 

tv rods wide. Such dried beds are frequently 
found in this part of the Zahara desert, made 
probably by the heavy rains, and the torrents 
descending from hills which are always near 
them. These beds are always chosen for a pas- 
sage, as they are entirely smooth, and furnish 
considerable grass. Our course was to the 
northwest. 

At night, the whole caravan stopped near a 
field of grain ; and, as before mentioned, with- 
out the least hesitation, the human beings fed 
all night upon that, and the beasts upon the 
grass. We here found a pond of stagnant water, 
which furnished us with beverage for our enter- 
tainment. The next dav. highly refreshed, we 
rose with the rising sun, and started with high 
animation upon our journey. My life now be- 
came happiness itself, in comparison with the 
misery I had long endured. Hamet was uniform- 
ly kind. I had become familiarized with the 
modes of an Arab's life : and were it not from 
the consideration that I was a slave, I should 
have enjoyed happiness in reality. At about 10 
o'clock, A. M. we came to the bed of a river at 
least half a mile wide, having a small stream up- 
on one shore of it. In passing the water, our 
camels waded midsides high ; and in going over 
the rest of the bed. they sunk in the moist clay- 
ground, slipping at almost every step, having no 
hard hoofs to make a hold. This was the rainy 
season in this part of the continent of Africa. It 
sets in at different seasons, in different por- 
tions of it.' While Abyssinia is almost inunda- 
ted, Soudan will endure a most dreadful drought, 

R 



194 ROBBIIVS JOURNAL. 

and the country adjoining Wadinoon will enjoy 
the luxuriance of the growing season. 

After passing this stream, we ascended a con- 
siderable hill, and came into a country where 
description must surrender its power. All that 
can be said is, it was a world made up of sand- 
hills and mountains, with narrow zig-zag passa- 
ges through, and over them. Travelling was ex- 
cessively fatiguing to the poor loaded camels, 
and to their owners. It was still harder for the 
horses, ridden by the armed Arabs. We ac- 
complished the passage by sun-set, and found a 
few tents, but lodged, as a caravan always does, 
in the open air. Through the next day, we tra- 
velled over a country, consisting of small hills 
and plains, barren sands, and cultivated grounds 
alternately intermixed. It rained gently all the 
while. We saw a beautiful gazelle, which an 
Arab attempted to shoot, but the sprightly ani- 
mal defied even the musket, by his agility, and 
escaped. Toward night the caravan was bro- 
ken up ; the natives and camels composing it 
having reached the place of their destination, 
This night Hamet and I were welcomed to the 
tent of one of his connections, as I concluded, 
because, as before remarked, Arabs will permit 
none but family connections to lodge in their 
tents. I remained at this tent three days. Ha- 
met, early in the first day, told me that he was 
going to Sweahrah. I had been too often deceiv- 
ed to believe it ; and my suspicions proved to be 
true when, at the end of three days, he returned 
with Bel Cossim Abdallab, from Wadinoon. 
While here I found I was with the tribe of the 
Wiled Adrialla, and by them was treated with 



BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 195 

the greatest kindness ; probably from the cir- 
cumstance of belonging to Hamet, a merchant 
of the tribe of El Kabla, which, as before men- 
tioned, is a branch of the powerful and wealthy 
tribe of the Wiled Aboussebah. 

I soon found that I was to be separated from 
Hamet, w r hose uncommon goodness for an Arab, 
made me esteem him. He and Bel Cossim came 
to the tent where I was situated, and began to 
talk about me. Hamet asked me, in the hearing 
of Bel Cossim, " Ash soo-mook B^led cum?" 
(what's the name of your country ?) I answered, 
supposing that he, like the rest of the Arabs, had 
no idea of America, " Fransah" He smiled, and 
said, " Arrah en tar murkan* Fransah en tar Ame- 
ricane" He gave me te understand, that he had 
learned I was an American, a day or two before 
at Wadinoon. It was a frequent inquiry made 
about me, whether I belonged to the vessel that 
had so much money in it, meaning the Commerce. 
They always insisted upon it, that great quanti- 
ties were buried at Cape Bajador where she was 
wrecked. I always denied it, fearing I should 
be sent there to dig for it, which would remove 
me farther from the hopes of being redeemed. 
The next day after the return of Hamet from 
Wadinoon, I was taken off by my new master 
Bel Cossim. Our course from this place to Wa- 
dinoon was about northwest. Toward night, we 
stopped at a tent, where we remained until the 
next morning. I here saw a wounded Arab who 
had a musket ball shot deep into the middle of 
the thigh. Upon seeing me, they supposed I was 
a doctor, as they have many foreigners who re- 
side upon the coast, as practitioners in surgery 



196 ROBBING JOURNAL. 

and medicine. Bel Cossim and others urged 
me to attempt to extract the ball, offering me a 
great reward to effect it. I scorned the idea of 
becoming a quack, even to deceive an Arab, and 
declined to operate. No patient ever needed as- 
sistance more to relieve him from the wound a 
ball had made, and from the more teriible gash- 
es and incisions made into the top of the thigh 
to the bone, by the harsh knives of the Arabs. 
In the evening, I saw the Spaniard, I have before 
mentioned, who attempted to escape, and had 
some conversation w r ith him in the Arab lan- 
guage, in which I could now converse tolerably 
well, however difficult it is to write it with accu- 
racy, after a long acquaintance with it. 

We travelled moderately on foot for three 
days, passing from one cluster of tents to anoth- 
er, until we reached the celebrated town of 
Wadinoon. Upon the passage, Bel Cossim pur- 
chased a small copper kettle, and a quantity of 
tow-cloth, which I had to carry. The name of 
the country through which we passed, was call- 
ed BHed-Mouessa Jlli, and the natives call them- 
selves JUisse-le-mene. We passed, upon the last 
day, a very small village situated upon an ele- 
vated piece of ground, from which we had a 
view of Wadinoon. This place is called Wah- 
roon. I have mentioned the method I adopted 
to keep my reckoning of time, i. e. by the string, 
in which I daily tied a knot until I disused it; 
by remembering the number of days we were 
upon the numerous journeys, and the number of 
days we rested. From this method of calcula- 
tion, for six months, 1 made the day of my arri- 
val at Wadinoon the 12th of March. But I there 



ROBBIES' JOURNAL. 



197 



found, upon ascertaining the actual time of the 
year, that I had lost four days, the day of my ar- 
rival being the 16th day of March, 1816. The 
day after my arrival was a market-day, which is 
held weekly. I found this to be upon the Chris- 
tian sabbath ; and that the Mahommedan sabbath 
was upon Friday, according to our calendar. 

The family of Bel Cossim consisted of his 
wife, who was his third one, by whom he had 
two sons and a daughter. His first wife left a 
son and a daughter: his second wife a daughter. 
His oldest son, Hamada, w r as married, and lived 
in the same house with him, being himself an 
aged man. A married daughter lived in an ad- 
joining one. He had five black slaves. He had 
other wives living in tents whom he occasional- 
ly visited. 

CHAP. XVIII. 

Wadinoon — its situation — number of houses and inhabitants — 
cattle — people — gardens — vegetables — barley harvest — cruel- 
ty of Bel Cossim — reaping, threshing, -vinnowing and grind- 
ing — keskoosoo — eating — market and fairs — manner of build- 
ing houses — Sheick' *s house. 

I NOW became a settled resident in what 
may be called the capital of the northern desert 
of Zahara. To my inexpressible satisfaction, I 
found Porter a resident here also. He had be- 
come the slave of a wealthy merchant, and w as 
what might be called a well dressed man any 
where. He lived as well as could be wished, 
and it may be said, enjoyed 44 leisure with dig- 
nity.'' He informed me that he had w r ritten to 

R2 



198 HOBBINS' JOURNAL. 

JVlog adore, and that Abdullah Harriet, his master, 
had received a letter concerning him — that he 
was in daily expectation of receiving one him- 
self, and considered his ransom as certain, and 
that he had heard of the arrival of Capt. Riley 
at Gibraltar. A few days previous to my arri- 
val here, the crew of the British brig Surprise 
left this place, and were in the keeping of Sidi 
Hssham, of Suse, for the purpose of being ran- 
somed. 

The town of Wadinoon is situated upon the 
western coast of the continent of Africa, about 
thirty miles from the sea, and upon the northern 
border of the Great Desert of Zahara. It is in 
that part of the continent called Suse, sometimes 
distinguished by Upper and Lower Suse. It is in 
28° 15 minutes N. Latitude, and 11° W. Longi- 
tude. A range of mountains, of considerable 
height, lies along between that and the sea, upon 
the north, and a similar range upon the south ? 
leaving between them a valley of about six miles 
in width. This valley diminishes in widto to- 
ward the east, and is ended by the termination 
of the Atlas Mountains. Upon a rising piece of 
ground near the middle of this valley is built the 
town of Wadinoon. From this place may be 
seen the village of Wahroon, to the west, at 
seven miles distance ; another village to the 
southeast, at twelve miles distance ; and Akka- 
dia to the northeast, at fifteen miles distance 
From the mountain, upon the north, issues a 
small stream from a boiling spring, running into 
the town, and furnishing water for the whole of 
it It is the finest water imaginable. The whole 
of it is absorbed in the place for necessary pur- 



ROBBINS' JOURNAL, 199 

poses, and watering the gardens. The other vil- 
lages also have small streams to afford them wa- 
ter. The number of houses included within the 
town of Wadinoon, while I resided there, which 
was eleven months, reckoning two new ones, 
built while 1 was there, is forty-five. Some of 
these, however, being large, contain a number 
of distinct dwellings for different families. The 
number of families, statedly residing here, was 
between ninety-five and an hundred, almost 
every one of which, during my residence, I had 
some acquaintance with, from the service I had 
to perform for my master Bel Cossim, who was 
a trader and also a farmer. Families here will 
average five individuals each, exclusive of slaves; 
the slaves in the town, amounting to an hundred 
and fifty of African blacks. The only Christian 
slave at the time I arrived was Porter, and I made 
the second. Of the black slaves, the Sheick, or 
governor of the place, was possessed of twenty 

The cattle in this place were horses, (Chile) a 
few cows, (Vbugrau) asses, (hermaK) mules, (hu- 
galali) sheep, Qcipps) and goats, (launims.} Ca- 
mels are seldom kept within the town, unless it 
be a few JVaigs to furnish milk, when the cows 
become dry. The residents in the town, many 
of them, possess large droves at keeping in dif- 
ferent parts of the adjoining country. Bel Cos- 
sim had several hundreds. They have fowls si- 
milar to our dung-hill fowls. 

The inhabitants are generally descendants of 
the tribe of Wiled Aboussebah ; although with 
them, are intermixed many of different tribes. 
Being much better educated than the wandering 
Arabs, they are much more refined in their man- 



200 BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 

ners than they are, although many of them ma- 
nifest the ferocious nature, and vindictive spirit^ 
Common to all the descendants of IshmaeL 

The mode of dressing; is similar to that of the 
Arabs of the desert ; although very much ex- 
ceeding theirs, in the quality of the cloth. In 
addition to the dress of a wanderer, they have 
an outward garment, covering the whole body 
from the top of the head to the knee. It is wo- 
ven whole of fine camel's hair and wool, is re- 
markably thick, and will shed rain for a very 
long time. These are not manufactured there, 
but are obtained from the trading Moors. When 
on, they look like a riding-hood ; the head-piece 
of which is ornamented at the top with a tassel. 
They are of various colours, some of them hav- 
ing a very rich appearance ; and those that are 
black have a large oval piece of orange colored 
cloth, woven into the back, toward the bottom. 
The female dress differs but little from that be- 
fore described, only in richness of quality. Some 
of the silk turbans are really elegant; having a 
broad piece of rich silk hanging from them to the 
hip. They invariably conceal their faces when 
walking in public. 

The gardens are chiefly situated in the bor- 
ders of the village. They are fenced in by a 
wall, composed of mud, upon the top of which 
are placed thorn-bushes, secured to it by laying 
large stones upon the stocks, leaving the bows 
to project over the outer edge of the wall to keep 
out intruders; stealing being a vice as prevalent 
here, as upon the desert. These gardens are 
cultivated with the greatest attention, and pro- 
duce a great variety of vegetables. 



ROBBINS JOURNAL. 201 

The ingenuity of laying out garders here must 
excite the admiration of every beholder, Let the 
surface of the ground be what it may, the beds, 
in which the vegetables are to be planted, are 
always made an exact water-level. They each 
have a ridge of earth upon the outer edge, ten 
inches high, which remains through the season. 
Each garden has a sluice-way, through which 
the water is conducted into the alleys. From 
the alleys, the water is conducted into the beds, 
through an aperture in the ridge, which is clo- 
sed as soon as the bed is filled, leaving the water 
to soak into the ground. In this way, they go on, 
filling one bed after another in the garden, how 
ever numerous they may be. Every garden in 
the place is watered in this manner. The wa- 
ter is supplied from the spring in the mountain, 
before mentioned. As it descends toward the 
town, it is drawn off in different directions for 
the accommodation of the people. Three reser- 
voirs have been made by digging large basins in 
the ground, and bordering them with a wall 
composed of mud and stones. These being sit- 
uated in different parts of the town, furnish a 
sufficiency for all the gardens. These reservoirs 
are owned by a number of proprietors, each ha- 
ving the privilege of drawing off the water, a 
number of days proportionate to the size of his 
garden, 

The vegetables produced in these gardens are 
the following : — The Arabic names are spelled^ 
'pronounced at Wadinoon. 

Arabic. English. 
Bishnall-suffarah, Yellow-corn. 
Bishnall-hamerah, Red or Guinea-corn. 



202 BOBBINS' JOURNAL, 

Liffett, 
Keizah, 
Bessal, 

C'shash, 

Lvroom, 
Dillaa, 
Filfil, 
Tobac, 
T'murr, 
Zurrah, 
Carmoose, 
Arromann, 
Tafferrez, 
Tack-nerrite, 
Nornipps, 

Henneh is a small leaf taken from a shrub, 
and dried, of which a powder is made, by mix- 
ing which with water a beautiful coloring is 
made for the hair. This is an article of great 
traffic. These different kinds of vegetables, in 
appearance and in taste, are very similar to those 
of the same species produped in New-England. 
Barley and wheat are raised in fields as well as 
in gardens ; the reason why the Arabs sow any 
in gardens is, the fear that the fields will be 
dried up where they cannot water them as they 
do in gardens. Wheat is raised but in small 
quantities. 

At the time of my arrival at Wadinoon, the 
barley was ripe for harvesting. I was immedi- 
ately put upon instruction to learn the art of 
reaping; but shewed as much ignorance and 
obstinacy in that art, in this place, as I did in that 



Turnips* 

Carrots. 

Onions. 

Pumpkins, squash, and 

gourds. 
Cabbage. 
Watermelons. 
Peppers, 
Tobacco. 
Dates. 
Barley. 
Figs. 

Pomegranates. 
Pears. 

Prickly-Pears. 
Grapes. 



ROB BINS' JOURNAL. 203 

of fishing near Cape Mirik, and tending camels 
with Mearah. On the second day, I loitered 
around the fields, not knowing where the black 
slaves were at work. Bel Cossim ransacked the 
town to find me in vain, but his son Hamada found 
me. Bel Cossim approached me in a rage, 
struck me with his fists a number of blows, and 
then threw a heavy stone, which hit me upon the 
side, the effects of which I severely felt for two 
months. I longed for revenge in vain. Had it 
taken place upon the deck of a vessel, I should 
soon have obtained ample satisfaction. I found 
resistance was in vain, and finally submitted to per- 
form easy tasks. This ultimately proved a benefit, 
rather than an injury ; for while other Christian 
slaves were wearing away life in listless indor 
lence, in the houses of their masters, pondering 
upon their fate, I w r as constantly traversing the 
town and the adjoining country; in a degree 
forgetting my miseries, and daily acquiring 
knowledge of the place, and the manners, cus- 
toms, and habits of the people. I found amuse- 
ment and instruction, in the midst of my services. 
The barley harvest was not all gotten in until 
the first of June, one field becoming ripe after 
another, having been sowed at different times. 
This barley more nearly resembled oats, than 
barley, the hull adhering to it. At one time, I 
was reaping with thirty Arabs, who gave my 
master, what is called a spell in N. England, and 
a tuczar at Wadinoon. We partook of our din- 
ner, {loader) consisting of Kcskoosoo and El-ham 
in the field, having water from a spring. The 
sickles are of Moorish manufacture, not dissimi- 
lar to ours. The «;rain grows two feet and an 



204 BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 

half high, and very thick. As they reap it each 
handful is bound into a sheaf, and it is very soon 
stacked in the field. When the whole field is 
reaped and stacked, the grain is transported up- 
on the backs of camels and mules to the com- 
mon threshing ground near the town, which is 
entirely hard, and generally composed of smooth 
rocks. The grain is beaten out with horses, as- 
ses, and mules. By this operation, the straw and 
berry is all beaten together, leaving the straw as 
fine as that which is cut with a machine. The 
grain is separated from the chaff and fine straw, 
by throwing it up into the wind with a wooden 
fork of three flat tines ; this being continued un- 
til the berry is entirely cleaned from every thing. 
With a good w r ind, a man in this manner will 
clean fifty bushels in a day. The grain is dried 
in earthen pots by fire, to prepare it for grind- 
ing. Every family grinds a portion of barley 
every day. This is done between two stones, the 
under one lying permanently upon the ground — 
the upper one having a hole in the centre. With 
one hand, the grain is thrown in,, with the other 
the stone is turned round ; the flour coming out 
all round the bottom of it. It is then sifted through 
a sieve, made of sheep's skin, when green, by 
pricking holes through it, and drying it sudden- 
ly with embers. This is put into hoops similar 
to our sieves. The flour is then put into a large 
shallow bowl, and by sprinkling water upon it in 
small quantities, and rolling the flour upon the 
bottom of the bowl with the hand, it is soon form- 
ed into small balls of the size of pepper corns. 
An earthen pot (gidderah) is filled with water, 
and when boiling, the little balls, being put into 



KOBBINS' JOURNAL. 20!i 

a grass basket, (kessikas) set upon the top of the 
pot, into which the steam of the boiling water 
ascends and cooks it. When it is cooked, it is 
called Keskoosoo, before mentioned, and is the 
principal food of the inhabitants ; although they 
often have vegetables with it, and sometimes a 
little meat (El ham.) The different sexes never 
eat in company ; but both partake of their food, 
sitting upon the ground, and eating with their 
hands from wooden dishes, always washing their 
hands before they eat. 

It had now become the 1st of June; the barley 
harvest was through, and the gardens occupied 
the chief attention. They w T ere filled with the 
various vegetables enumerated before, many of 
which w r ere ripened, and required great care. 
Bel Cossim appointed me El Rais, or Captain of 
this part of his dominions, and authorized me to 
expel intruders and punish aggressors. In the ex- 
ercise of this power, I one day saluted an Arra- 
berc, as the wandering Arabs are called by the 
citizens of Wadinoon, with a heavy stone, having 
caught him stealing grapes. He immediately 
turned, and aimed his musket toward me, which 
^ totally disregarded; and, in a tone of authori- 
ty, commanded him to flee, which he instar_tiy 
obeyed. My master urged me to accept of a 
musket, which I declined, knowing that he would 
soon have compelled me to bear arms, in de- 
fence, against the numerous marauders who of- 
ten infest the town, and render every thing in- 
secure. 

The markets and fairs at this place are steadi- 
ly holden once a week, upon the Christian sab- 

s 



206 



ROBBINS' JOURNAL, 



hath, the Mahommedan sabbath being upon Friday. 
At these markets, are exposed for sale, almost 
every species of vegetables produced in the 
country — Olive oil and Argan oil are also offer- 
ed, and purchased in greater or smaller quanti- 
ties by almost every one. Zate is a common term 
for every species of oil. These oils are manu- 
factured and sold by a race of natives called 
Berrebers, in distinction from Arabs and Moors, 
occupying the western coast of Africa, extending 
from Morocco, south to the dominions of Sidi 
Hcsham. These natives will be more particular- 
ly mentioned hereafter. Another kind of thick, 
white oil, made from small red berries, is also 
sold, which is called d^hent. Some kind of oil is 
always eaten with keskoosoo. Honey is also ex- 
posed for sale. Various meats are also in mar- 
ket, among which are beef, mutton, camePs and 
goat's meat; and sometimes cooked locusts. 
Bread, called khobz, is also sold. It is in heavy, 
black cakes, about the size of a sea-biscuit. 
Grain is also retailed. The foregoing articles 
include all that is sold for food. 

At the fairs are offered for sale almost every 
article of clothing, necessary to cover or ornament 
the body. Blankets, or haicks, blue cottons, 
slippers, belts, turbans, and almost every species 
of trinkets. Occasionally, spices are exposed 
for sale — also powder, tobacco, and tar— the last 
article being in great use among the wandering 
Arabs for healing camels, which are also sold 
here, and killing camel bugs. The persons re- 
sorting to these markets, as sellers and purcha- 
sers, embrace almost every different race of 
Africans. A duty or compensation is always de- 



ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 207 

manded by the town, and paid by the sellers, for 
the use of the markets. 

, The mode of building houses may be reckon- 
ed auiong the peculiarities of these people. They 
have not sufficient wood to burn their clay into 
bricks, nor have they timber of sufficient size to 
saw into boards. There seems to be no other 
mode in which they could erect habitations but 
that resorted to. The houses are built of mud 
and stones. They begin the wall by placing a 
framed box, ten feet long, three feet high, and 
two and an half feet wide, upon the ground. 
This they fill with moistened earth, occasionally 
mixing fiat stones with it. As it is thrown in, two 
persons standing within the box, pound it down 
as hard as possible. When the box is filled, it 
is taken apart, carried forward, and placed in an 
exact range with the piece of wall thus begun. 
The same process is carried on, until the \\ ')ole 
foundation is raised three feet high — this making 
the lower tier — Any number of tiers are placed 
upon the top of each other that the owner chooses, 
sometimes extending to seven. In one corner of 
the house, is carried up from the bottom, a wall 
ten feet square, having an apartment within it 
and rising from fifteen to twenty feet above the 
top of the four side-walls of the house. This 
makes the battlement or tower, for the defence 
of the house. These walls are covered upon 
the top by thorn bushes, in the same manner that 
garden walls are, there being upon the top of 
the house, no manner of roof. To secure the 
people and furniture, within these walls, from 
rain, there are small rooms, about six feet wide, 
and sometimes extending around the whole main 



208 BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 

wall about eight feet high, but sometimes raised 
two stories high. In these, the people sleep up- 
on mats. The roof is composed of rafters made 
of date-trees, extending from the main wall to 
the inner one. Upon these are placed reeds in 
thick order, and then covered with mud. The 
centre of the house is left exposed to rain, and 
the water is conducted off by a sluice through 
one of the outer walls. There is but one door 
or gate, which is made very strong by rivetting 
together timbers of date-tree with iron bolts. 
This is fastened at night with a wooden lock of 
the most curious manufacture. The cattle, of 
various kinds, occupy the open area within the 
walls during the night season. Some of these 
houses have two or three different families oc- 
cupying them, in different apartments. The 
Sheicfcs house is the largest in the place, stand- 
ing a little distance from the compact part of the 
town. In addition to the common walls, he had 
a wall about six rods from the house walls, en- 
tirely surrounding the house, enclosing as much 
as two acres of ground. Within it, he has a 
small church for his own devotions, and that of 
his visitants, which are very numerous. His bat- 
tlement is twenty feet high, in which are placed 
one of the guns of the British brig Surprise, which 
has been mentioned, as lately lost upon the wes- 
tern coast of Africa. The houses are built pro- 
miscuously, without forming any regular streets. 



ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 



209 



CHAP. XIX. 

Public worship— fasting season— feasting season — circumcision 
— wreck of a prize to the Romp, and her crew — redemption of 
the crew of the British brig Surprise — Sidi Hesham, his ap- 
pearance and power — Jews, decree concerning them — tobacco 
and snuff— Hamet Webber. 

THE religious ceremonies of the Mahomme- 
dans, in families and small parties upon the de- 
serts, has already been minutely described, and 
frequently mentioned. In the town of Wadinoon, 
is a place consecrated for the sole purpose of per- 
forming their solemn rites, and manifesting their 
faith by their external ordinances. The build- 
ing, in which they worship, has outward walls, 
built in the same manner as other houses, alrea- 
dy described ; but this has a Hat roof, covering 
the whole at the top. The roof is supported by 
pillars in the inner side of the building, built with 
stone and mortar. It is arched upon the top ; 
and upon the arches are painted, very coarsely, 
the sun, moon, and stars, and some other figures, 
which cannot be described particularly, as an 
eri-sahrau was not permitted to enter it ; and the 
only way I ever got within it, was by exercising 
secrecy to gratify my curiosity. Before they 
enter the temple, they wash themselves in warm- 
ed water prepared in the yard, as they do with 
sand upon the deserts. Their mode of worship, 
after they enter, I cannot describe, as I never 
witnessed it ; although they sulle in the same 
manner upon the roof as upon the deserts. The 
building is small, but large enough for s _> small a 



210 BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 

place as Wadinoon; and sufficiently capacious to 
enable its few inhabitants of the male sex to 
worship ; females never being allowed to assem- 
ble with them. In the same house? the public 
school is kept ; the mode of instruction the same 
as before described. 

The fasting season was a time of the greatest 
solemnity, ft lasted for a whole moon, begin- 
ning when the new moon first made its appear- 
ance, in June, 1816. I conclude this must be 
the season of the annual fast, it certainly was in 
the season I resided at Wadinoon. During the 
continuance of this season, the natives never ate 
or drank between the rising and setting sun; but 
indulged themselves in both, with great voraci- 
ty, during the darkness of the night. As I was 
resolved to show not the least conformity to the 
faith of Mussulmen, I made this a feasting season, 
having a full supply of tack-nerritcs and nornipps. 

The day after the fast concluded, the feasting 
season commenced. A spectator would have con 
eluded that a month's abstinence was amply sa- 
tisfied by a day of gluttony. The whole cooked 
dishes in the town were all brought to the mar- 
ket-place. Those who brought many changes 
of dishes fared no better than those who brought 
none. It was "fall to and spare not and whe- 
ther the system of Mahomet requires it or not, 
the law of nature would dictate that a fast should 
follow, as well as precede a feast. These feasts 
frequently occur, as the Mahommedans have 
many holy days in honour of their different saints. 
Besides the general fast, single fast days fre- 

3uently occur among different individuals, at 
ifferent times, and for different judgments. 



ROBBIXS' JOURNAL. 2] 1 

The feast was concluded a little past noon, 
and, after some sports in firing, the ceremony of 
circumcision commenced. From the most frantic 
and boisterous mirth, the whole multitude be- 
came, as if by a shock of electricity, immediate- 
ly solemnized. The Jews invariably circumcise 
their children at eight days old ; but among the 
Moors and Arabs, no particular age is regarded ; 
but it is performed as circumstances make it 
convenient. Two of Bel Cossim's children were 
this day circumcised, one aged nine, the other 
fourteen years. The ceremony was performed 
in the yard adjoining the Zham, or the place of 
religious worship. That, and the adjoining 
grounds, were crowded with spectators. I, how- 
ever, mingled with the rabble in such a manner 
as to witness the ceremony, notwithstanding I 
was not a Mussulman. It was performed by a 
Mohammedan priest, with the most profound so- 
lemnity. The child was presented to the priest 
by the father, holding him in his arms with his 
private parts exposed. The priest drew the 
foreskin as far forward as possible without giv- 
ing pain, then, with an Vmoose, (knife) he cut the 
skin off without touching the fleshy part, leaving 
that forever afterwards entirely bare. This ope- 
ration causes the child to shriek ; upon w r hich, a 
number of muskets are fired. At this time, a 
number were circumcised from the age of about 
five years, to that of eighteen. Two of the grand- 
children of Bel Cossim were circumcised, the 
youngest of which was between five and six 
years of age. At every ceremony the muskets 
were discharged. The circumcised children 
w r ere kept in for a month, and prohibited the use 



212 BOBBINS' JOURNAL, 

of every species of fruit, unless it was prepared. 
Within that time, they generally recovered ; and 
during my residence in Africa, I never knew 
death occasioned by circumcision. The black 
Africans, that are brought to Wadinoon from the 
country of Soudan, are sometimes uncircumcised. 

The fasting-season ended the 24th July, 1816, 
and the feasting and circumcision took place on 
the 25th, the new moon having appeared. At 
about this time, I became acquainted with a 
Christian slave, who, a short time before, arrived 
at Wadinoon. His name was Thomas Davis, and 
he informed me that he was an American; that 
he formerly belonged to the privateer Romp, of 
Baltimore ; that he was one of the prize-crew on 
board a Spanish vessel, that had been captured 
by the Romp, bound to Buenos Ayres. The ves- 
sel was wrecked upon the western coast of Afri- 
ca in about 19° North Latitude, in May, 1816. 
The captain of the prize was drowned, and the 
remaining crew, five in number, were enslaved 
by a tribe of wandering Arabs. Their names, 
besides Davis, were Smith, (drowned) prize- 
master ; John Brown ; George Hall ; John, a Span- 
iard, and an American gentleman, who, I was in- 
formed, had been a major in the late United 
States Army, and had, when wrecked, a com- 
mission in the Army of the Spanish Patriots, and 
was bound there, as a passenger, to join them. 
He and Brown were slaves to Sheick Ali, chief 
of a tribe of wandering Arabs. Brown, after his 
arrival at Wadinoon, which was in December, 
1816, informed me that this gentleman died up- 
on the desert, a few days before he arrived there, 
from absolute starvation, and that he buried him 



BOBBINS' JOURNAL*. 213 

I published an article upon this subject soon af- 
ter I returned to America. 

About this time I learned, by the arrival of 
Sidi Hesham, at Wadinoon, that the crew of the 
British brig Surprise, who have before been men- 
tioned as detained by him for the purpose of be- 
ing ransomed, were released ztMogadore, through 
the instrumentality of the Hon. William Will- 
shire, a philanthropist, to whom a very great 
proportion of the Christian slaves in Africa have, 
ibr some time past, been indebted for their eman- 
cipation from the most cruel and hopeless bon- 
dage. 

The appellation Sidi is applied indiscriminate- 
ly to every man who holds a slave ; so that I 
might have dignified my different masters by the 
names of Sidi Ganus, Sidi Meaarah, Sidi Harriet, 
and Sidi Bel Cossim. This term, by the Moors 
and Arabs, is also applied to their Saints. When 
it is bestowed upon a native, having the power 
of Sidi Hesham, I do not know how extensive its 
meaning becomes. This Sidi Hesham resided 
about fifty miles N. E. from Wadinoon, and was 
often there during my residence in that place. 
He always was accompanied by a numerous 
body-guard of well armed Arabs, sometimes 
amounting to thirty, mounted upon elegant, fleet, 
well trained horses. He was always received 
by the natives of Wadinoon, with the most distin- 
guished respect. The most splendid dinner, 
which the place could provide, was spread be- 
fore him. His guard was also treated with that 
kind of attention, which even great folks bestow 
upon those who follow in the train of a great 
character. While I was a resident there, he was 



214 BOBBINS' JOURNAL, 

scouring the country with six hundred mounted 
Arabs, spreading terror and exciting conster- 
nation wherever he went. He often robbed the 
caravans, bound from Soudan to Fez and Mo- 
rocco, securing his plunder in the fastnesses of 
the Atlas mountains, which, as has been mention- 
ed, bound the long valley in which Wadinoon is 
situated at the northeast But a short time be- 
fore I arrived there, the Moorish troops belong- 
ing to the Emperor of Morocco, Moolay Solimaan, 
drove Sidi Hesham from his holds, to the south 
of Wadinoon; but could not pursue him through 
the desert, where he and his clan were at home. 
The Moors encamped upon a small hill upon 
the east of the town, planted their cannon there, 
and alarmed the place for a number of days. 
Great numbers of slaves fled from their Arab 
masters, and joined the Moorish army. They 
however decamped without destroying the place, 
which might easily have been effected by a twelve 
pounder; there being no cannon in the town. 
Indeed, had it been lined with a park of artille- 
ry, the total ignorance of the Arabs in enginery, 
would have rendered them useless. 

I shall have occasion to mention the country 
inhabited by this powerful chief, in my tour from 

Wadinoon to Moo;adore. 

© 

Sidi Hesham, in his person, is six feet high. He 
is an old man, with a very full white beard hang- 
ing low on the breast. His haick and turban 
were of the finest texture of that country. His 
fine blue broadcloth cloak was trimmed quite 
round with red silk. His morocco beot-legs 
reached from his knees, and were made fast Ko 
his Moorish slippers, over which were hackled 



ROBBING JOURNAL. 215 

large silver spurs. His belts were broad, and of 
red Morocco, crossing at the breast and at the 
back. From one was suspended his immense 
powder-horn, almost covered with broad bands 
of shining brass : from the other hung his long 
burnished cutlass. Around his waist was wound 
his broad scarlet sash, confining his belts to his 
body. His long Moorish musket was decorated 
with silver bands from the lock to the muzzle. 
The breech was of ivory, and that part of the 
stock composed of black wood, was filled with 
ivory stars curiously inlaid. His horse was an 
Arabian courser, of the highest blood, and a 
beautiful milk-white. His flowing mane separa- 
ted in the middle, covering his neck upon each 
side. His fore-top was confined by a broad fore- 
head piece hanging down over his eyes, and al- 
most concealing them. His long thick tail fell 
to the ground. He was caparisoned with a 
Moorish saddle, covered with red broadcloth. 
The stirrups covered half of the bottom of He- 
sham's feet. His portmanteau was striped with 
black, yellow, and red, and richly tasselled at 
each end. When mounted upon this courser, 
Sidi Hesham would excite admiration, mingled 
with terror. The appearance of the principal 
Sidis is similar to that of Hesham. Their horses 
and muskets differ but little ; and take them and 
their clans together, perhaps the world hardly 
affords a more desperate band. 

The Jews formerly resorted to Wadinoon in 
considerable numbers for the purposes of traffic ; 
but a Jew is esteemed but little higher than a 
Christian, although they are never enslaved. At 
the time 1 came to this place, 1 often saw them 



216 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 

there ; but during my residence, a Jew was guil- 
ty of some deception or fraud in regard to a let- 
ter sent by the Sheick^ or governor, to Sidi Hesh- 
am, and a decree was passed, that no Jew should 
enter the town ; and I never saw an Israelite there 
after that time. An intelligent Jew informed me 
that by the law, none of his race were permitted 
to purchase or hold Christian slaves upon pain 
of death ; and that a Jew was slain but a short 
time before, for violating it, by having one in his 
possession. They stand in awe of both Moors 
and Arabs. It is a subject of wonder, that the 
Jcivs,the once favoured people of Heaven, should, 
even down to the nineteenth century, humble 
themselves before the descendants of Ishmael, 
the most despised and degraded of all the an- 
cient children of Abraham. 

The season had now advanced to the month 
of September. The tobacco was sufficiently ri- 
pened, to cut and cure. It is not so large as that 
produced in North-America, but very similar in 
its appearance. The method of curing it is, by 
cutting off* the stock, just above each leaf, begin- 
ning at the bottom one. A bunch is then tied 
together at the union of the leaf with the stock. 
It is then laid upon the flat roofs of the rooms 
within the main walls of the houses, and remains 
there until sufficiently dried and cured to smoke 
at home, or send off to the desert. Snuffis made 
by pulverizing dried tobacco between stones, 
and mixing with it a weed of strong and delicious 
flavor. With this they frequently rub their teeth, 
which are almost invariably white. 

Merchants are constantly arriving at Wadi- 
noon from the Zahara desert, belonging to dif- 



ROBBI2VS' JOURNAL. 217 

ferent wandering tribes. Among them, I often 
saw my kind master Harriet Webber, of whom, and 
from every one who arrived here from the desert, 
I inquired concerning the situation of the Chris- 
tian slaves among the wandering Arabs; and 
learned that two Americans, one white and one 
black were dead. From the accounts I received, I 
suspect the white slave must have been Antonio, 
and the black one Dick. Hamet always seemed 
rejoiced to see me, and frequently told me he 
saved my life. This I believed without his as- 
sertion. I always acknowledged my gratitude, 
and told him I would amply reward him if he 
would come to my country. He would ask me, 
what I would give ? He asked me if there was 
a God in my country ? wondered why Christians 
did not Sidle ; and be circumcised; and would 
devoutly exclaim 44 Sheda Mahommed, Rahsoot 
Mahr 

CHAP. XX. 

Nature of government among Arabs — marriage ceremonies — in- 
terment of dead — the Saint, Sidi Timah — a mound— practice 
of physic — amusements— ransom of Porter — quarrel between 
Wadinoon and Akkadia — a food — ploughing season — descrip- 
tion of locusts — muttomorahs. 

WHILE at Wadinoon, I took every opportu- 
nity in my power to ascertain the nature of the 
government in operation. My advantages to ob- 
tain correct information upon this important sub- 
ject were of necessity limited ; but I will com- 
municate what little I do know. 

The Sheick, or governor, has a council c<*a- 

T 



218 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 

sisti'ng of all the principal natives of Wadinoon. 
They frequently assemble at the governor's 
house, both to make laws and judge upon the 
violations of them. The government of Wadi- 
noon extends through most of the tribes inhabit- 
ing the northern parts of the Desert of Zahara. 
From all the observations I made, and from all 
the information I could obtain, I feel confident 
that the tribes have a distinct government among 
themselves, exercised by their several Sheicks ; 
and that the government of Wadinoon exercised 
a sort of supreme control over the whole. This 
conclusion is drawn from the fact, that minor 
offences are tried and punished upon the desert; 
and that those of greater enormity are tried and 
punished by the authority of that place; some- 
times by a council hold en at the Sheick^ s house 
in Wadinoon ; and sometimes by the Sheick and 
council holding a session, or court, in the inte- 
rior, upon the desert. During my residence, a 
controversy arose between a part of the tribe ol 
the Wiled Ahoussebah, and a part of the Wiled 
Adrialla, at the B'led Mouessa Alt. The first men- 
tioned tribe demanded a number of Izhmacls, or 
camels of burthen, of the last. The Adriolla re- 
fused, and a contest ensued. Expresses were 
immediately despatched to Wadinoon for the 
Sheick and council to repair to the scene of con- 
troversy. The express arrived at 12 o'clock at 
night, and in less than thirty minutes, the Sheick 
and council were armed, mounted, and upon the 
march. Bel Cossim's son, Hamada, went in his 
stead. Before they arrived at the BHed Mouessa 
Ali. a battle had commenced. It was fought by 
armed Arabs mounted upon horses. While the 



ROBBING JOURNAL. 219 
iattle was raging, the Sheiefc an council arri- 
ved, and a cessation of hostilities immediately 
took place. A number of the Abowebah weie 
slain and five of their horses. The A nalla lost 
no men, and but a single horse. The eick and 
council decided the controversy in favo r of the 
Adrialla ; and the Aboussebahs were compe led to 
forfeit to them a number of camels, as a compen- 
sation for the injury. The particulars of this 
contest, and the manner of its settlement, I had 
from the Spanish slave who has before been 
mentioned, and w r ho w r as himself in the action, 
upon the side of the Adrialla. The Sheick and 
council were absent from Wadinoon seven days 
upon this business. 

I never knew the public authority interfere to 
enforce the collection of debts ; leaving it to 
creditors to obtain satisfaction in their own way ; 
which is generally done by taking off the blan- 
ket, &c. from the back of a debtor without cere- 
mony, if he refuses payment. Difficulties but 
rarely occur from this source, and I never saw 
any character, in any part of Africa, that exer- 
cised the functions of a lawyer. 

The punishment for offences and breaches of 
the peace is, by imposing a fine. I never s«aw 
any corporal punishment inflicted for any of- 
fence. A part of the fine is paid to the witness- 
es, upon the conviction of the offender. 

Marriage is effected by the parents of the par- 
ties intending to join in wedlock. Private in 
terviews are never permitted between the par- 
ties, until after the marriage rites are solemni- 
zed. The parents of the bride furnish the 
cessary household furniture, and the groom must 



220 ROBBINS* J L r riNAL. 

furnish a house to put that and his bride in. A 
feast of keskoosoo, el-ham, and fruits, is always 
given at a marriage, and it is always conclu- 
ded with a dance. The Mahommedan priest 
who marries them, receives a reward proportion- 
ate to the wealth of the groom. 

At the birth of a child, a feast is also given to 
the connections of the parents of it ; and if it be- 
longs to the Shcick, or to a principal Arab, the 
feast is splendid, and numero usly attended. The 
different sexes upon these, as well as upon all 
other occasions, feast in different apartments, 
and often upon different days. 

The interment of the dead is also attended 
with a feast. There being but a little over six 
hundred inhabitants of all kinds at Wadinoon, 
but three or four deaths happened while I was 
there. One was that of Braham BadullaWs (the 
Sheick's) mother. A great quantity of keskoosoo 
was made upon this occasion, in which all the 
female slaves assisted; and the feast was wholly 
confined to the female sex. In the grave yard, 
is a building of two apartments for the different 
sexes to perform religious ceremonies in. There 
are a number of burying grounds in the vicinity 
of Wadinoon, and great numbers of monuments 
of rough stones standing in the ground, without 
any inscriptions upon them. This would induce 
a foreigner to conclude, that this place was for- 
merly much larger than it was in 1816. 

At about a mile distant from the town, is a na- 
tural, circular mound of a quarter of a mile dia- 
meter, and very regular. It rises as many as 
seventy-five feet above the surface of the valley. 
Nearthe top of it, is a circular brush fence, with- 



R0BB1NS 5 JOURNAL. 221 

in which was formerly interred a saint, whom the 
natives called Sidi Timah. He was esteemed a 
prophet, and was supposed to possess the pow- 
er of healing diseases. His memory is cherish- 
ed with the most solemn veneration. The na- 
tives never pass this mound without performing 
religious ceremonies, facing inwards. They an- 
nually celebrate the day of his death, cooking 
all kinds of food within the fence, and pouring it 
upon the ground, or leaving it in the pots. With- 
in the fence, is an immense number of them, 
some having the appearance of great antiquity. 
Whatever is deposited within this fence, is al- 
ways entirely secure. The natives continue to 
pray to this saint, and believe that he still heals 
their diseases by his divine power. I have often 
seen the natives, when sick, proceed with the 
most solemn devotion, to this mound, and pray 
to Sidi Timah. At the base of it are three vaults, 
in which some great characters have been inter- 
red. The natives, say, that the ghost of an aged 
female, buried at a little distance, rises often in 
the night season and walks around the ashes of 
Sidi Timah. Single graves are often seen with 
large heaps of brush and stones placed upon the 
top. Between the town and this mound, I saw 
the ruins of an ancient wall, enclosing a conside- 
rable piece of ground, now covered with bushes, 
which the natives told me was in past ages oc- 
cupied by the en-sahrau. Similar places are seen 
in other parts of the country near Wadinoon. 
Modesty requires that I should leave the privi- 
lege of conjecturing to the reader. 

There are at Wadinoon no professors of medi- 
N % 



222 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 

cine ; but all the inhabitants have a mode ol re- 
lieving their own pains and those that are sick, 
peculiar to themselves. They administer a bit- 
ter weed for internal complaints. For rheuma- 
tism, cramps, &c. the patient lies down upon the 
belly, and a man jumps up and down upon his 
back. This is the modus operandi, and whether 
it produces relief secundum artem, I know not ; but 
cures are effected in this way. Tar and grease 
are applied to flesh wounds. The headache is 
cured by pinching the forehead and temples with 
the fingers, or biting them with the teeth. 

The amusements of the men at Wadinoon con- 
sist in training and riding horses, which they do 
with the greatest skill and elegance. Shooting 
at a mark is an amusement common to every one, 
and some fire with admirable accuracy. Cast- 
ing a single stone at a number of small ones, 
standing loosely upon the ground, is often prac 
tised. They often throw in a murzoon each, a 
silver piece of two cents value, and the most skiJ 
ful ones get the whole. — Dancing is the onlj 
amusement in which the sexes unite. The mu- 
sic is made upon a tambarine, not unlike those of- 
ten seen in N. England. The natives are pas- 
sionately fond of music; and however wretched 
it is, it almost captivates them. A Moor, from 
Fez, arrived while I was at Wadinoon, with a 
rude fiddle, which, so far from " discoursing most 
eloquent music" would make a hearer recollect 
Burns' description of a " Scotch scraper, tvhose 
tones imitated the dying agonies of a sow tinder the 
hands of the butcher" He however received many 
presents, and went off well loaded. By the use 
of the musketj as an amusement, the Arabs ac 



KOISBIJN'S' JOURNAL. ££3 

quire all the knowledge of the manual exercise 
they possess ; there being no such thing as in- 
struction in this, or in military maneuvering. 

About the middle of October 1816, Porter re- 
ceived a letter from Mr. Willshire dated the 8th 
of that month, which I read. It informed him 
that the terms of his ransom were agreed upon 
between him, and his (Porter's) master, who sent 
to his wife, by a messenger, to send Porter im- 
mediately to Mogadore. Bel Cossim discovered 
that Porter had been ransomed, and felt anxious 
to obtain a large ransom for me. I went with 
him to the house of Porter's master, having writ- 
ten a hasty line to Mr. Willshire, in relation to 
my own situation, which I gave to Porter. Por- 
ter left Wadinoon with the messenger, and I re- 
turned to my slavery with little hopes of being 
ransomed, as Bel Cossim was determined to hold 
me, until he could obtain an exorbitant sum for 
my liberation. This letter to Mr. Willshire w as 
never answered ; nor did I ever receive any an- 
swer to those I before had written, nor to those 
I afterwards wrote. I feel the utmost assurance, 
that that excellent man had the best reasons for 
his silence, as he afterwards deeply interested 
himself in my discharge. My master Bel Cossim 
had been the owner of many Christian slaves, 
and purchasing them at a low rate, and demand- 
ing a great sum for their ransom, was one of the 
great sources of his great wealth. I was now the 
only Christian slave in Wadinoon, except Davis, 
who has been mentioned as one of the crew of 
the prize ship that was wrecked in May 1816. 

During the whole of the month of November, 
and a part of December, I was constantly em- 



224 ROBBINS' JOURNAL, 

ployed in building a mud wall around the exten- 
sive gardens of Bel Cossim. It was nearly com- 
pleted, when the rainy season commenced ; and 
the hard labor of six weeks was demolished in a 
day. 

In the month of December a serious quarrel 
commenced between the town of Wadinoon and 
Akkadia* a town occupied by the Shilluh, about 
fifteen miles to the north, in the same valley in 
which Wadinoon is situated. The quarrel was 
occasioned by some injury a Shilluh woman had 
sustained from my master Bel Cossim, Brahim 
Abdallah his brother, or Hamada his son. The 
two towns espoused the cause of their own people. 
Wadinoon was in perpetual alarm from this time, 
until I left it, in the February afterwards. The 
Shilluh were determined, if possible, to have the 
blood of Bel Cossim or Hamada. No regular 
warfare was carried on between the parties ; but 
constant depredations were committed by each. 
The ordinary business of farming could not be 
prosecuted by individuals singly, but they went 
out in large parties to cultivate the land, each 
**ne being armed with a musket. Night alarms 
were incessant. My master kept an armed man 
A x\ his battlement, and was in constant fear of his 
life. He acted as if guilt preyed upon him ; and 
shewed by his conduct that " the wicked flee when 
do manpursueth" He was universally detested, 
even by his own neighbors; and nothing but 
-he security which w r ealth often affords to a vil- 
lanous wretch, preserved him from assassination 
in his own house. 

From the 15th of December the rainy season 
continued for five days and nights, and there 



BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 225 

could hardly be said to have been for that time 
a cessation. From the north, and the south, the 
water poured down in torrents from the two 
ranges of mountains before described, into the 
valley which, as mentioned, is six miles in width, 
diminishing as it stretches toward the Atlas 
mountains. From these mountains, for a great 
distance, and from an immense height, the rivers 
of water, suddenly created by the rain, all bent 
their course to the eastern boundary of this great 
valley. The smaller valleys all discharged^their 
watery contents into it. In a short time, the 
great valley began to present a river of shallow 
water six miles in width, excepting where the 
adjoining mountains projected into it. Upon 
these projections, which might now be called 
promontories, the numerous villages or towns 
were situated. The water continued to rise for 
six days, until the whole valley, from the Atlas 
mountains to W adinoon, and from thence south- 
west to the sea, a distance probably of one hun- 
dred and fifty miles, was covered with water 
from five to eight feet in depth. Wadinoon was 
entirely surrounded with the flood, and upon the 
south side of the valley, this immense body ol 
water passed with a considerable current. In 
three days after the rain ceased, the valley was 
nearly emptied of water. For a number of days, 
accounts were constantly received of disasters. 
Numerous camels, and great quantities of goods 
and grain were destroyed ; and many lives were 
lost. Wadinoon suffered but a little, from its 
elevated situation, although some gardens situ- 
ated low in the valley were injured, and many 
walls of the houses and the gardens sustained 



226 BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 

injury from the long continuance of the rain 
From appearances in the neighborhood of Wa- 
dinoon, it must formerly have suffered severely, 
either from floods or enemies, as there are great 
numbers ot walls in ruins. 

During the rain, I was almost constantly ex- 
posed to it, in securing tobacco, digging drains 
to carry off water, and in other services. Some 
of the small rooms were partially demolished ; 
and, during the rain, an ancient wall, standing 
within the main walls of Bel Cossim's house, fell 
with a tremendous crash into the inner yard. 
Fortunately, no man or beast was situated with- 
in its destructive reach. 

As soon as the waters had subsided from the 
face of the earth, the ploughing commenced. 
The ground in this valley is never ploughed in 
the dry season ; as it would be useless to put seed 
into it during the continuance of it. It is impos- 
sible to imagine a scene of greater activity and 
animation than this valley presented. From the 
Sheick to the black slave — from the camel of 
twenty-five hands in height, to the most diminu- 
tive mule — Moors, Arabs, Arrabbere Shilluhs, 
Christian and African slaves, were all in motion 
Zahara poured in her hordes of famished lsh 
maelites, and the long valley disgorged her con- 
tents of surfeited merchants. At the dawn o\ 
day, Mahomet was worshipped ; and the keskoo- 
soo was swallowed with despatch. The beasts 
were geared to the plough, and, followed by men, 
were hastily driven to the adjoining fields. From 
the rising to the setting sun, they both travelled 
as steadily as that scorching luminary ; and ne- 
ver ceased labor, until darkness rendered it im- 



ROBBIES' JOURNAL. 227 

practicable. The JcesLoosoo was again eaten, and 
the exhausted, fatigued, and despairing slave 
was permitted, for a season, to repose. This 
service I was compelled, incessantly, to perform 
for forty days. An unusual quantity of ground 
was ploughed this season, as many fields were 
cleared of bushes which must have been of six 
year's growth. Some of the oldest people told 
me they never knew so much ploughed. 

The soil, within this valley, w r hen a sufficient 
quantity of rain falls, is astonishingly fertile. It 
is of a dark rich color ; has but few stones and 
is easily cultivated. The grain is sowed before 
it is ploughed, and one ploughing serves for the 
whole. The plough is of the most simple con- 
struction. It consists of a small, crooked piece 
of hard wood, forming a knee. The perpen- 
dicular part of it makes the handle ; the hori- 
zontal part, the bottom of the plough ; the for- 
ward end of that is shod, or pointed with iron ; 
the beam is mortised into the handle, in such a 
manner, as to give the bottom a proper pitch, 
depending upon the angle the knee makes. It 
is very light, and may be carried, without diffi- 
culty, in one hand. The people plough with 
every species of animals in their possession — 
camels, horses, asses, mules, and cows. Each 
one drives his own beast, and holds his own 
plough. The camel is guided by a single rein, 
fastened by a ring into one of its nostrils. A man 
and beast will generally plough an acre in a day. 
While the last fields were ploughing, those first 
ploughed had barley twenty inches high. 

As the grain came up, the flights of locusts be- 
gan to infest the country. They came from the 



228 KOBBINS' JOURNAju. 

southeast. Without a view of one of these flights, 
a man can have no idea of the horror excited 
upon their approach. When they are above the 
spectator, in the atmosphere, they almost ob- 
scure the sun — when they light upon the vege- 
tables on the earth, they completely cover them, 
and, in a very few minutes, devour them. I have 
before described the manner of gathering and 
cooking these insects upon the desert. They 
are sometimes boiled at Wadinoon for food for 
men and beasts. Early in the morning, before 
they begin to fly, I have known a bushel and a 
half gathered from a bush six feet high. They 
cover them as completely as a swarm of bees 
do the bough upon which they light. The locust 
of Africa more nearly resembles the large grass- 
hopper of N. England than any other insect. 
The body is of a reddish brown color, about two 
inches in length, and a quarter of an inch through. 
From the head to the end of the wings is nearly 
three inches. When devouring vegetation, they 
make a noise similar to small pigs eating grain. 
Bel Cossim had five acres of guinea corn totally 
destroyed, while some fields near were untouch- 
ed. 

Upon the 5th of February 5 1817, the great 
Moloode was holden at Akka, about an hundred 
miles east of Wadinoon. These, as I learned, 
are annually held in different parts of the coun- 
try. It is a sort of wholesale fair, and the natives, 
by wholesale, attend them. Wadinoon was al- 
most divested of male inhabitants, leaving the 
female ishmaelites to manage affairs at home. I 
urged Bel Cossim to carry me there and sell me ; 
but he declined. He however took a letter from 



KOBBLNS' JOURNAL. 229 

me directed to Mr. Wiltshire, which I afterwards 
found at a Jew's house among the Shilluk. 

After the ploughing was through, the people 
were employed in digging into the earth Mutlo- 
morahs, to contain the grain when harvested. 
They are dus; into stone, or earth and shelving 
rocks united as hard as stone. A circular hole, 
of four feet diameter, is dug until it comes to a 
greyish slate stone. Another round hole is then 
begun, of one foot and a half diameter at the top, 
and as it is dug into the stone, is constantly wi- 
dened. By these means, the hole becomes large 
enough to let the body into it, and there to con- 
tinue to peck up the stone, and pass the frag- 
ments out of the hole at the top. Some of these 
are dug large enough to contain from three to 
five hundred bushels. When the grain is put in, 
the small hole is covered with a flat stone, and 
the large one filled even with the surface of the 
ground, securing the grain from the weather, and 
concealing it from thieves. These vaults are 
made to preserve grain for a time of famine. 
Bel Cossim had numbers of these vaults, and 
shewed me grain taken from them which had 
remained in them three years, in the soundest 
possible state. I was employed in digging one 
of these muttomorahs, in the lowest state of de- 
jection, expecting to be taken from it, only to be 
compelled to assist in securing the immense 
fields of Bel Cossim's grain, when a cheering 
prospect of redemption burst upon me, like the 
light of the sun, after the cheerless gloom of a 
Lapland winter. 

U 



230 



ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 



CHAP. XXI. 

Manuscript in English — author purchased by a Shilluh — leaves 
Wadinoon — dangerous travelling — distant view of Santa Cruz 
— monuments — EVajjah Mahomet — letter and express sent to 
Mogadore — The Shilluhs— productions of their country — story 
of the Spaniard — message from Mogadore — passport to that 
place, 

UPON the 16th day of February, 1817, as I 
was at the market in Wadinoon, where I saw 
Davis, and also Brown, who had arrived in De- 
cember, a Shilluh presented to me a piece of 
manuscript, asking me if the language was Ingle- 
sis? I immediately saw that it was, and read it. It 
was headed "Mogadore" but was not dated. The 
substance of it was in very nearly this language. 
" To any Christian Slave — " You are requested to 
sign this paper at the bottom, with your name ; and 
mention the name of the vessel in which you were 
ivrecked — the place where, and the time when, and of 
what nation you are ; and return it to the one who 
offers it to you" The paper had no signature, 
and was written in an elegant hand. My master 
was eyeing me with real Arab sagacity. I press- 
ed the Shilluh to explain — he looked at Bel Cos- 
sirn, remained mute a minute, and discovered 
the arch cunning of his tribe. He then loudly 
said, in Arab, " / shall go in the morning to Moga- 
dore, and will carry a letter for you," and immedi- 
ately walked hastily off to the fair. Bel Cossim 
also went off, and left me to reflect upon this 
strange interview. Hope and despair alternate- 
ly prevailed in my mind. I had before conclu- 
ded that my fate was fixed for life ; and my Ma- 
hommedan acquaintance at Wadinoon, which 



ROBBIES' JOURNAL. 231 

embraced almost every male Arab and Moor in 
the place, had often urged me to espouse the 
faith of a good Mussulman — relieve myself from 
slavery — take an Ishmaelitish wife, and become 
great. I cannot tell what increasing misery 
might have driven me to ; but I was determined 
to resist this apostacy to the last. Upon the 
next morning, (17th) the Shilluh w r ith two com- 
panions, all mounted upon mules, called early 
at the house of Bel Cossim. He asked me if my 
letter was ready, and appeared to be in the 
greatest possible haste. I ran in to entreat my 
master for a piece of paper and a reed to write 
with. He immediately came out and spoke with 
the Shilluh. They began an earnest conversa- 
tion in the Shilluh tongue, which I did not fully 
understand ; but soon learned from some Arabic 
words used, that Sel Cossim demanded two 
hundred dollars for my ransom, and that the 
Shilluh offered one hundred and fifty. My mas- 
ter declared that the money was sent from the 
Consul at Mogadore for my ransom — the Shilluh 
denied it : said he wanted me for his own slave, 
and was about departing. Bel Cossim came 
down to one hundred and seventy-five dollars, 
and the Shilluh hastily rode off The pains of 
death itself could not exceed my distress. My 
master noticed my agony, and very coolly said, 
44 never mind it, he ivill soon be back — he has got the 
money" I did not allow myself to hope it ; but 
very soon saw the Shilluh returning. The mo- 
ney was paid — I took the last mess of keskoosoo 
under the walls of Bel Cossim Abdallatis house, 
and left it for ever. We had not proceeded 
more than a mile, before the Shilluh hastily re 



232 ROBBINS-' JOURNAL, 

turned back — made a bargain with the master 
of the Spaniard frequently mentioned, and sent 
off an Arab with a mule after him to the IP led 
Jfflouessa Jilt. At night the Spaniard arrived at 
Wadinoon. As to Brown and Davis the Shilluh 
declared them to be uzmuntoots (pirates) and 
w ould not buy them. They joined in writing a 
letter to Mr. Wiltshire which the Shilluh took. 
During the absence of the Arab who went after 
the Spaniard, 1 went about the town with Davis 
and Brown, joining with them in lamentations 
that they were still to remain in slavery. I felt 
by no means certain concerning myself. I was 
still the property of an Ishmaelite, and still sub- 
ject to the capricious whims of that indescriba- 
ble race of creatures ; I however had animating 
hopes. During the day, I never entered the 
w r alls of Bel Cossim's house, although urged to 
go in and eat. I kept in view of my Shilluh mas- 
ter. About 8 o'clock in the evening, the Shilluh, 
with three companions, the Spaniard and myself, 
set off from the great town of Wadinoon, which 1 
have minutely and faithfully described, on our 
way toward the B'led Sidi Hesham. At about ten 
miles distance, which we travelled rapidly in the 
dark, over stones and bushes, we arrived at a 
Douar of tents — refreshed ourselves with laish 
and zaie — took a little rest and again started. 
The Shilluh presented me and the Spaniard, a 
new pair of Moorish slippers each. The natives 
were mounted and we were on foot, running all 
night As we were passing the town of Akkadia, 
with which Wadinoon was still at war, and in the 
country oi Sidi Hesham the great bandit, we were 
n constant apprehension of being murdered and 



KOBBINS' JOURNAL. . 233 

robbed. In the night, we passed a narrow defile 
leading through the Atlas mountains, which of 
course, I cannot describe. We heard the dis- 
tant hooting of the natives and the trampling of 
horses. We travelled with the utmost caution. 
Frequently we were passed by mounted Arabs, 
and carefully concealed ourselves. I knew it to 
be the object of Sidi Hesham to get into his pos- 
session all the Christian slaves he possibly could, 
in order to extort an enormous ransom from the 
Christian powers. I learned from Mr. Wiilshire, 
that the ransom of the crew of the British brig 
Surprise, which I have before mentioned as be- 
ing in his possession, only seventeen in number, 
amounted to five thousand dollars, besides ex- 
penses and presents to a large amount. 

Upon the next morning, (18th) the Shilluh 
barely stopped to sulk. Our course from Wadi- 
noon thus far had been about E. N. E. During 
this day we bore a little more to the northward; 
and at about 10, A.M. stopped at the house of one 
of the Shilluh, and were comfortably refreshed. 
We were now in the country of the Shilluh, a 
race included among the Berrebbers. This coun- 
try, from the best accounts I could obtain, 
extends from Mogadore, south-westward to the 
borders of Sidi Hesham's dominions, and from 
the western coast of Africa to the eastern limits 
of the western termination of the Atlas moun- 
tains. We continued to travel gradually until 
2 P. M. when we came to a market ; stopped a 
short time; ate a few dates, and proceeded on 
our journey, still passing branches of the Atlas 
mountains. At nearly sun-set we came into view 

U2 



234 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 

of an extensive level country . It was one of the 
grandest views imaginable. Before we descen- 
ded, we could extend the eye across this im- 
mense and truly delightful country, and catch a 
distant glimpse of the range of mountains run- 
ning from Santa Cruz, eastward, to the Atlas 
mountains. My Shilluh toaster exclaimed, " Ria, 
Robbinis ! shufe Santa Cruz" — There, Robbins ! see 
Santa Cruz. I should degrade my feelings if I 
attempted to describe them. As we passed along 
we often saw clusters of well built mud and 
stone houses, and single ones scattered along 
through the whole country. Extensive barley 
fields were constantly in sight, some of which 
shewed a gloomy track of desolation left through 
them by the recent passage of a flight of locusts. 
Date trees, fig-trees, argan and olive trees, 
prickly pears, &c. were almost constantly in 
sight, although the date tree is not so common 
here as to the eastward of the Atlas mountains. 
At about nine in the evening, we put up at the 
house of an acquaintance of the Shilluh. I found 
the worship precisely the same as I had noticed 
it, in every part of Africa I had seen. 

The next morning, (19th) by 2 o'clock, we 
were again upon our journey. The Shilluh ap- 
peared extremely anxious to expedite the jour- 
ney. My slippers were worn through, and I was 
most excessively fatigued. But the thoughts of 
travelling toward the desired regions of civiliza- 
tion made me forget that fatigue, which would 
otherwise have been insupportable. Before 
sun-rise, after sulle was performed, the compan- 
ions of the Shilluh left him. The Spaniard and 
I now became the objects of his particular atten- 



BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 235 

tion. W e passed a great number of monuments, 
the surfaces of which were composed of clay, 
whitewashed, having, at a little distance, the 
appearance of marble. Some were in the shape 
of an obelisk, and others were carried up square. 
We travelled so hastily, that I could not give 
them a particular examination. The Shilluh 
pointed out one that was erected in honour of 
Sidi Harriet a Mouesa, w T hom he mentioned with 
great veneration. When passing near them the 
Shilluh would face them, and repeat over some 
of the ritual, as I concluded, not having yet suf- 
ficiently learned the Shilluh language to under- 
stand him. At about sunrise we came to a town 
nearly as large as Wadinoon. We passed 
through it, and near the gardens which w r ere 
constructed like those in that place. I did not 
learn the name of the town, as we made no stop. 
Upon the east of the town, and near to it, we 
pressed a very considerable stream of pure wa- 
ter, running from the S. E. and to the N. W. and 
N. The gardens were near its banks, which 
were thickly lined with date trees ; but it was 
past their bearing season, at this place. The 
water was let into the gardens, from a pond, 
formed by a dam across the stream above the 
town. This stream the natives called El-wad 
Sehlem. It was about six rods in width, and, 
where w r e passed it, so shallow that we forded 
it on foot. After passing the stream, we con- 
tinued in a N. E. direction, and soon ascended 
and descended a considerable hill, and came 
again into the level country which was &till fer- 
tile, but was suffering from drought. At nine 
o'clock, we came to a small village, called by 



236 BOBBINS' JOURNAL, 

the natives Widnah, and stopped for a short time. 
From this village, might be seen many others, 
all of which appeared to be in a flourishing con- 
dition. This level country extended far to the 
N. W. being bounded upon the S. E. by the At- 
las mountains, branches of which frequently 
stretched some distance into it, leaving vallies 
between them. After breakfast, we joined a 
number of the inhabitants, and went to a market, 
which is called soag. The markets from Wadi- 
noon to Santa Cruz are so arranged, being hol- 
den upon different days in the week, that travel- 
lers can every day be accommodated with an 
open market. The description of the markets 
and fairs at Wadinoon will, with little variation, 
apply to all that are established through this 
range of country. One article, however, which 
is a principal one at that place, is never seen 
among the Shilluh — tobacco ; this being consider- 
ed among them as a detestable weed, and the 
use of it as a transgression. At these markets, 
or soags, I saw great numbers of Jews, being the 
first I had seen since they were prohibited from 
trading at Wadinoon. We crossed a stream, 
more rapid in its current, and greater in its 
depth, than the one last mentioned, and continu- 
ed our course to the eastward. Before sun-set 
we reached a very beautiful level country, with 
scattered houses covering a great extent of it. 
It was covered with extensive barley fields, and 
the usual fruit trees common to the Shilluh 
country. This was the residence of my Shilluh 
master. He conducted me, and my Spanish 
companion, to the mansion of EPajjah Mahomet, 
who was called by the natives, Sharif. Every 



KOBBINS' JOURNAL. 237 

object around us had the appearance of wealth 
and comfort. We were shewed into a very good 
apartment, and a repast of dried figs was spread 
before us. EVajjah Mahomet informed us, that he 
had sent the ransom money to Wadinoon for us, 
that he would, in the morning, furnish us with 
paper to write on to Sweahrah (Mogadore) to the 
Ccntz, (consul ;) and, as soon as we received an 
answer, we should immediately start for that 
place : and, that if we wished, he would furnish 
us with mules to ride upon. For supper, we had 
boiled eggs, khobs, and, for the first time in Afri- 
ca, a cup of tea. 

The distance from Wadinoon to this place, to 
which the natives gave no particular name that 
I can remember, is about one hundred and thir- 
ty miles, in the course we travelled ; the gene- 
ral course being just about N. E. We travelled 
with great rapidity for footmen, the Spaniard and 
I having travelled it without mules, in forty-five 
hours. 

The next morning, the 20th of February, 1817, 
before w r e arose, we were served with tea, clham, 
and kcskoosoo, in our apartment. We soon walk- 
ed out with EVajjah Mahomet to the house of a 
Jew, where we were treated with carmoose, bran- 
dy. I there wrote a letter for myself to Mr. Will- 
shire, and another for the Spaniard to the Span- 
ish Consul at Mogadore. Our protector imme- 
diately despatched an express, on foot, with the 
letters. Astonishing to relate, he returned at the 
end of seven davs. The Jews had here a small 
manufactory for making knives, scimitars, scab- 
bards, breast-plates, ear-rings, and all the varie- 
ty of trinkets in demand among the natives 



230 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 

There were many of these children of Israel m 
this place, and, as in all others, despised and 
abused ; although they were the largest dealers 
in the place. * W e remained at this place until 
the 16th of March, and were uniformly treated 
by the good EVajjah Mahomet with the utmost 
kindness. In his house, was an apartment set 
apart for worship, and used for no other pur- 
pose. Whenever a stranger arrived he inquired 
for the zham, or place of worship, and water to 
prepare for the performance of religious rites 
This was immediately furnished, and they re 
tired to their devotions. Every scattering house 
has such a closet for prayer, but in villages there 
is a zham common to all. EVajjah Mahomet uni- 
formly expressed the utmost indignation against 
the Wiled D'leim, and spoke in wrath of Bel 
Cossim. 

I found the Jews in this part of the country, in 
making their bills and accounts, make use of the 
ten digits precisely like those in use here. Our 
bill was made in this manner ; but I never, at 
Wadinoon, nor in any other place, saw them used 
by the natives. They write their numbers from 
right to left, their left hand figure being always 
the unit. 

I was sensibly struck with the great superiority 
of the Shilluh, over all the other races of Maho- 
metans in Africa. They were mild and friendly 
in their dispositions, and seemed to want nothing 
but the benign influence of Christianity, to ren- 
der them a most estimable race of men. They 
are lighter in their complexion than the Arabs, 
and speak a language so different, that they can- 
not understand each other. 



ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 239 

The country of the Shilluh is under the do- 
minion of the Emperor of Morocco. Two tax- 
gatherers from Fez, which also belongs to the 
Emperor, were here, and spent a day at EPajjah 
Mahornefs house with me, and I conversed with 
perfect ease with them. They exercised great 
authority, and if the least hesitation was shewn 
in paying the required tribute, the Moorish mus- 
ket and cutlass would soon enforce it. \ saw a 
blanket forced from a native who was either un- 
able or unwilling to pay his quota. They told 
me, upon inquiry, that the money was going to 
the Sooltann, and that it was gathered yearly. 

The productions of this delightful country are, 
horned cattle, some sheep, and goats, horses, 
asses, mules, and a few male camels for burthen. 
Grain and fruits are produced in abundance. 
Almonds, honey, peach-meats, and wax are ar- 
ticles of trade. JVoose, a moss taken from trees, 
is in great demand for colouring morocco leather, 
and great quantities of it are transported to Mo- 
gadore. Argan trees abound every where in this 
part of the continent. 

I had not opportunity to learn particularly 
concerning the mines of different ores in the At- 
las mountains, which make the southern boun- 
dary of the Shilluh country ; but at the Jews' 
manufactory, I saw a mountaineer offer to a Jew 
a lump of ore which he pronounced copper. 
The native who brought it said he got it out oi 
a hole so deep that the end could not be disco- 
vered; and that water was constantly running 
down in it. I was requested to examine it, as 
the natives suppose every en sahrau acquainted 
with the precious metals. As I am ignorant of 



240 BOBBINS' JOURNAL, 

mineralogy, my opinion would settle nothing 
upon the question ; but I took it to be copper. 
The mountaineer declared it to be gold. From 
hearing it frequently mentioned at Wadinoon, 
and being urged by Bel Cossim to go to work 
upon ore, which he would shew me, no doubt 
remains upon my mind but that ore abounds in 
this part of Africa. 

During my stay in the Shilluh country, I in- 
creased my acquaintance with the Spaniard, and 
had from him, in the Arabic language, a history 
of his slavery with the Arabs. He told me he 
had been upon the desert eight years ; that he 
belonged to a Spanish privateer, and was upon 
a cruise for French vessels in 1809, off the wes- 
tern coast of Africa; that the water of the ves- 
sel was nearly expended, and that he, and three 
others of the crew, were sent ashore, in the boat, 
for water, and that they were all captivated by 
the Arabs. He said he was among the blacks in 
the southern part of the continent, and was there 
for some time, upon the banks of a river, with 
fertile and cultivated land, having horned cattle 
upon it. He said he knew not the fate of two ot 
his companions ; but one of them we found upon 
our arrival at Mogadore. Upon being presented 
to the Spanish Consul, he could not speak his 
native tongue, and to me he always appeared as 
a native of Africa, and was often, by the Arabs, 
mistaken for such. His brief story, related to 
me, induced a belief in my mind of its accuracy. 

While we remained at EVajjah Mahomefs, he 
went to the governor at Terudant to obtain a pass- 
port for us to Mogadore, as without it we could 
not pass the town of Santa Cruz. He also car- 



ROB BINS' JOURNAL. 241 

ried a letter from the governor to Sidi Hesham. 
and obtained authority of some kind from him. 
He informed us, that all this was indispensably 
necessary, to secure a safe passage to Mogadore. 
The messenger sent to Mogadore brought back 
a letter in Arabic, to our protector, and a present 
of a loaf of sugar. He informed us that all ne- 
cessary arrangements were made, and that in a 
short time the preparations of food, &c. for our 
journey would be completed. 

CHAP. XXII. 

Departure with EVajjah Mahomet — El-wad Sta — sand hills — 
the ocean — Atlas mountains — arrival at Santa Cruz — descrip- 
tion of that place — passage over a mountain — a contrast — ro- 
mantic view — cottage in a forest — dogs — view of Mogadore — 
reception by Mr, Willshire — admission into his house — cheer- 
ing American flag, 

UPON the 7th, the food, consisting of khobs* 
butter, and barley meal, was packed ready ior 
transportation : and, at one o'clock, A. M. upon 
the 8th, the Spaniard and I, mounted upon one 
mule, and EVajjah Mahomet and a boy upon an- 
other, started upon our journey. Our hearts 
were dilated with gratitude towards EVajjah Ma- 
homet, and Mr. Willshire, and thankfulness to 
heaven, and we directed our course N. N. W. to- 
ward Santa Cruz. At about 8, A. M. we forded 
the largest stream 1 had yet seen in Africa, be- 
ing, I judged, fifteen rods in width. The natives 
called this river El-wad Sta, We took a wind- 
ing course, to avoid the immense sand hills 
which lay between us and the sea. These lay 
in oreat drifts, like snow banks. I saw the up- 



242 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 

permost boughs of numerous fig-trees, just aoove 
the sand drifts. This was about twenty miles 
from the sea. How long these sand hills have 
been forming, must be left to conjecture ; but 
from the circumstance of seeing the tops of trees, 
a traveller w r ould be led to suppose that they 
are rapidly extending into the country. After 
passing these, we changed our course to the N. 
W. being in sight of Santa Cruz, and, what was 
to me the most animating sight, the ocean. My 
Spanish companion was frantic with joy. He 
leaped up; threw out his hands; exclaiming, 
" loga ! toga ! via el Bahar, via el Bahar. This 
was the first time I had seen the ocean since De- 
cember, 1815. From this point the Atlas moun- 
tains, lying upon our right, appeared in all their 
grandeur. Their tops, rising in succession one 
atter another, were covered with snow. The 
rays of the sun, striking upon them, gave them 
the most brilliant appearance. We reached 
Santa Cruz at 3, P. M. The passport was offer- 
ed at the fort — a present of henneh was made to 
the commander, and after this we were permit- 
ted to enter the lower town. It is a town com- 
pactly built of stone, and walled. The main 
street runs through the town from one gate to the 
other. Being built upon the side of a hill, one 
street rises above another, and the houses, be- 
ing low, the roofs in the next street below the 
spectator may be seen. There is another settle- 
ment called the upper town, surrounded by a 
v^rv high wall. The land upon which the place 
stands is very elevated, rising, I should jtfige, as 
many as twelve hundred feet above the level of 
the sea. This wall has the appearance of a for- 



ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 243 

tress, being filled with port-holes. The dwell- 
ing-houses are all built within it. I was inform- 
ed by the Moors that there was a mine within 
the walls of this place, but that nobody but an 
en-sahrau dare descend it. From the lower town, 
the passage to the upper one is by a winding 
road around the hill, which is difficult of ascent. 
The prospect from this place is extensive and 
grand. Situated high upon the commencement 
of the range of mountains, extending from this 
place east to the Atlas mountains, the spectator 
has a view of the whole range and also of the 
Atlas. This is a place of the greatest importance, 
it being the key to the dominions of the emperor 
of Morocco, and the only passage from the wes- 
tern coast of Africa into that empire, excepting 
Teruda?it, which is situated about ninety miles to 
the east of Santa Cruz, which is called by the 
natives Agadeer. This place was formerly hold- 
en by the Portuguese. The Moors informed me 
that the en-sahrau (Christians) settled it, built the 
fortress, and cultivated the adjoining country ; 
that the Moors, taking advantage of a long 
drought and distressing famine, besieged the 
place, and compelled them to abandon it; and 
that the emperor of Morocco has ever since held 
possession of it himself. A few cannon still re- 
main, and a few are sufficient to defend it against 
the encroachments of the Arabs, who, notwith- 
standing their power upon the desert, are, from 
their mode of warfare, weakness itself, compared 
with the power arising from modern tactics. 
The bay before the town is very open, and fur- 
nishes but a poor harbour for the protection of 
shipping. There were fifteen or twenty open 



244 ROBBING JOURNAL, 

fishing boats in the bay, and I saw two from 
which the Moors were landing fish ; but had no 
opportunity to give them an examination. 

Upon the 9th, we passed the north gate of the 
town at sun-rise, upon our journey toward Mo- 
gadore. The country through which we travel- 
led was made up of one rocky hill succeeding 
another. But little land was susceptible of cul- 
tivation, and this was chiefly in the vallies. A 
few houses were scattered along in them, and 
occasionally a cottage was seen at a great height 
upon the mountains on our right. We continu- 
ed upon the sea coast, and passed one conside- 
rable stream, and a number of streamlets. The 
passage through the country, for it can hardly 
be called a roa.d, was almost constantly throng- 
ed with loaded camels and mules from Moga- 
dore, transporting iron, grain, haicks and other 
articles. At about 2, P. M. we came to a place 
which offered to the traveller two different pas- 
sages ; the one near the sea, the other over the 
mountains ; the latter being, as I was told, the 
shortest course. I saw numerous loaded camels 
coming from the passage next to the sea. This 
passage was described by El'ajjah Mahomet as 
the best, although the longest. This was the 
passage through which Capt Riley and my ship- 
mates travelled in their passage to Mogadore 
soon after we were captured, and they were 
purchased by Sidi Hamet. Capt. Riley men- 
tions a place in this passage by the name of the 
Jew's Leap ; but as I was conducted through 
the passage over the mountains, I did not see, 
and cannot describe it. Our passage over the 
mountains was such as to excite the fearful ap« 



ROBBINS 5 JOURNAL. 245 

prehensions of those who were about to attempt 
it : and almost beyond the power of description 
from those who had effected it. It was a zig- 
zag course up a mountain, forming an angle of 
ascent of at least forty-five degrees. This ex- 
traordinary passage was made over an artificial 
path constructed by cutting and wearing a nar- 
row track into the rocks of the mountain, about 
twenty feet, and the same distance to its outer 
edge, each ascending a little. These tracks 
were made in and out of the mountain, until 
we ascended nearly to its summit, which, from 
the place where we began to rise, was at least 
one thousand feet. We made this passage on 
foot, driving the loaded mules before us. Before 
we reached the summit, we came to one of these 
tracks, worn into the rocks by travelling, of 
about forty rods in length. This track was only 
of sufficient width to permit the mules and their 
followers to pass singly. Had either fallen from 
this contracted path, over the shelving rocks 
composing the side of the mountain, immediate 
death must have been the inevitable consequence. 
We then came to a long, dark, natural passage 
between two mountains of as much as two miles 
in length, ascending but a very little. At the 
end of this passage, upon the top of the moun- 
tain, is a level country of about five miles in 
length, and three in width ; in a pretty high 
state of cultivation, with houses situated thinly 
upon every part of it. The contrast it furnished 
to the rocky and almost inaccessible mountains 
that lead to it, is as great as nature can afford. 
Here we rested awhile, and travelled leisurely 

X 2 



246 ROBBINS' JOURNAL, 

over this piece of ground ; the inhabitants all 
showing to EPajjah Mahomet the most distin- 
guished respect. We then began to descend the 
mountain upon the northeast side, which was al- 
so very steep in places, but much less so than 
where we ascended. We then came to a valley 
through which a stream runs of considerable 
size, and passes off upon the left to the sea. Af- 
ter passing it the country became more sandy, 
and as we were gradually rising we again had a 
full view of the Atlantic ocean. At about sun- 
set we put up at the house of an acquaintance of 
EPajjah Mahomet. 

Upon the 10th we continued through a coun- 
try that was sandy, until towards noon, when wc 
entered a valley lying between two mountains, 
losing sight of the sea, where we saw many beau- 
tiful gardens constructed similarly to those at 
Wadinoon, and watered by a small stream issu- 
ing out of the mountains. Our passage, for seven 
or eight miles, was level, leading between moun- 
tains in a zig-zag course, frequently so narrow 
that but one could pass at a time. It was the 
most romantic scene that the mind can conceive. 
Our good protector kept generally upon his 
mule, while the Spaniard and I alternately rode 
and walked, in company with the boy. We now 
travelled through a country of hills and vallies, 
almost every where covered with the Argan 
tree, and loaded with fruit, which resembles the 
damson in shape, and of a yellow colour. From 
the meats of these, oil in great abundance is 
manufactured. About sun-set we passed the 
dry bed of a large river, and came into a wilder- 
ness composed of the Argan tree. Darkness 



ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 247 

C\ ne on, and we gathered a quantity of wood, 
to spend the night, there being no house in 
sight. At length we heard the barking of 
dogs, and descried the light of a fire. We ap- 
proached, and found it completely surroun- 
ded with a wall composed of thorn bushes 
twenty feet high. We requested water, but 
could procure none; and with great difficulty 
obtained a little fire. We attempted to repose 
around the fire, but enjoyed but little rest. The 
dogs within the wall, with the highest ferocity, 
were constantly gnashing their teeth, and at- 
tempting to force a passage through the picket 
of thorns to assail us. This species of dogs is 
common in every part of Africa that I had seen, 
and are the most ferocious of the whole canine 
race. I have often seen them tear and lacerate 
the blacks in the most terrible manner. Almost 
every native has more or less of them with him, 
whether travelling or at rest. 

The next morning, at an early hour, we start- 
ed upon the last day's journey to Mogadore. 
We passed in the fore part of the day through a 
forest of Argan trees. For the whole distance 
from Santa Cruz to Mogadore, the traveller is 
accommodated with water secured in cisterns. 
These are built with great care and much labor. 
Some of them are thirty feet in length, and eight 
or ten in width. They are sunk into the earth 
from five to eight feet, and stoned and plaister- 
ed within; over them, rising about five feet 
above the surface, is built a flat roof, made of 
poles, reeds, and mud, and smoothly plaistered. 
The entrance is at one end down a flight of 
stairs leading to the water. Upon the roofs are 



248 BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 

often seen travellers refreshing themselves with 
food, and partaking of the fine water contained 
within. The water is conducted into them by 
little channels cut into the surface of the earth. 
After refreshing ourselves at one of these fine 
reservoirs, we came into a plain sandy country. 
Upon rising a small sand hill we again had a view 
of the Atlantic — of an island which forms the 
harbor of Mogadore, and of a ship and a brig. 
This was the first shipping I had beheld since we 
left the wreck of the Commerce at Cape Baja- 
dor, nearly nineteen months before. The joy of 
my Spanish companion almost produced deliri- 
um. We soon came in sight of Sweahrah, the 
longed-for Mogadore, situated very low upon 
the borders of the ocean, and, it being high tide, 
appearing to be almost surrounded with water. 
We continued to travel near the beach, and ha- 
ving upon our left a block of buildings enclosed 
within a wall of stone, plaistered, presenting a 
front of at least two hundred feet in length. 
Above this wall, I discovered four distinct roofs 
covered with green tile, coming to a point in the 
centre. EVajjah Mahomet informed me that it 
belonged to Moolay Solimaan, emperor of Moroc- 
co. Near to this was situated a small fort. The 
town is nearly three miles distance from this 
place. Continuing on, we passed a rapid river, 
by fording. Our protector now dressed himself 
in elegant Moorish stile ; and as we followed 
him, we passed a number of buildings or monu- 
ments, erected in honour of some Mahommedan 
saints as I concluded, for we were directed to 
dismount our mules, dismiss our slippers, and 
walk by barefooted. We approached the walls 



ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 249 
of the town to within half a mile of the south 
gate, and stopped. EVajjah Mahomet left us and 
entered the town. I very soon saw a gentleman 
of elegant appearance approaching rapidly to- 
ward us. He came directly up to me, and with 
the benignity of benevolence illuminating his 
countenance, called me familiarly by name, 
shook me cordially by the hand, and requested 
me to mount the mule and ride into town. Up- 
on saying I could as well walk, he said, " You 
must be fatigued — I insist upon your riding — I en- 
tered the town with him, and my Spanish com 
panion, whom he conducted to the Spanish Con- 
sul's, taking me with him to his own house, 
where 1 was immediately supplied with the 
best refreshments. It will be recollected that 
the Shilluh declined to purchase Brown and 
Davis at Wadinoon, but to my surprise and to 
my joy, I found them at Mr. Wiltshire's house, 
having arrived there four days before. The 
American flag was immediately hoisted upon the 
top of the house, and I, together with Brown and 
Davis, were directed to give three cheers. When 
I arrived, I was clad in an old woollen frock 
shirt, as my whole apparel; my hair had grown 
at random in every direction ; and my beard pre- 
sented one evidence of a Mahometan. A Jewish 
barber was immediately ordered, and gave to 
»ny hair and beard a more Christian appearance. 
Clothing was as soon as possible furnished by 
Mr. Wiltshire, and I began to think I should in 
? ime regain my native tongue, my American ha- 
bits, and my native country. For nearly two 
rears I had spoken the Arabic tongue, and felt 



250 ROBBINS* JOURNAL. 

myself excessively mortified to find I conversed 
so imperfectly in the English language. 

CHAP. XXIIL 

CJiaracter of Mr. Wiltshire— -description of Mogadore — the 
Jezvs — markets — manufactures—public buildings — mode of 
worship — manners of the people—population — harbor — ship- 
wrecks — letter from the Hon. James Simpson. 

MR. WILLSHIRE, under whose protection I 
was now placed, and to whom I shall, till death, 
feel under the deepest obligations that grati tude 
can dictate, is a native of the city of London ; 
of about twenty-five years of age, of the most 
elegant person, and of the most accomplished 
manners. He has resided at Mogadore a number 
of years, and has at that place a large mercantile 
establishment. He has had for a considerable 
time, vessels under the American and English 
colors. I supposed him to be very wealthy, from 
the number of stewards, clerks, and assistants, 
in his employ. He invariably had religious ser- 
vice performed at his splendid mansion upon the 
Sabbath, at which English gentlemen and ladies, 
sea-captains, and other foreigners attended. He 
performed service himself, in the EpiscQpalian 
mode, with the most solemn devotion, and his 
house appeared to me to be a real Bethel ; and 
so far as an imperfect man can judge of the heart, 
1 should think his a fit abode for the Holy Spirit. 
It must be left for the future biographer to erect 
a monument to his virtues ; but I must not, I can- 
not omit to inform my readers that to this modern 
Howard, this divine philanthropist, our unfortu 
nate countrymen are indebted for their redemp- 



BOBBINS 1 JOURNAL. 25] 

tion from the most miserable bondage that the 
miserable sons of Adam ever endured. To know 
the manner in which he expends much of his 
immense income, would be to learn, that with 
him wealth is devoted to the noblest of all pur- 
poses, diminishing human woe, and augmenting 
human happiness. He has, by his munificence, 
secured the favor, even of Mahommcdans, with 
all their antipathy against Christians. Scarcely 
is there a Moor or an Arab through the whole 
of Suse and the Great Western Desert, who is of 
any consequence, but he has engaged to assist 
him in his benevolence. No sooner does he 
learn of a Christian slave of any country, than he 
despatches a Moor, a Shilluh, or an Arab to 
bring the w r retched creature to tasie the fruits 
of his ransoming benevolence. The paper I 
mentioned at Wadinoon was w r ritten by this mi- 
nistering angel of mercy. 

The town of Mogadore is situated upon the 
Western coast of Africa, and, from the most ap- 
proved charts, in 31° 15' N. Latitude, and 9° 
W. Longitude. It is, in every point of view, the 
most important place in the empire of Morocco. 
It stands upon a peninsula, projecting into the 
Atlantic ocean, and its waters wash its north 
and west sides ; and, at high tide, nearly make 
it an island. A high wall, composed of stone 
and mortar, is built near the borders of the pe- 
ninsula, and within it is situated the town in 
three distinct sections, separated from each 
other by inner walls. The Moors occupy the 
main section upon the east ; and the few Chris- 
tian merchants the western one, containing the 
fortress, together with some natives ; and the 



252 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 

Jews the north section exclusively. It is strong- 
ly fortified, having double walls upon the south 
and east sides, from which points it is approach- 
ed from the country. It is in shape a paralell- 
ogram, and strongly, fortified at each corner, 
especially at the northeast and southeast, by 
heavy mounted brass and iron cannon. Upon 
the water port, at the west side, is a battery of 
cannon containing between forty and fifty heavy 
brass pieces. There is but one entry into that 
section of the town occupied by the Jews, and 
this gate is constantly guarded by an armed 
Moor. At night it is always locked, cutting off 
the despised sons of Jacob from intercourse 
with any part of mankind. Even in the day- 
time, intercourse with them is almost prohibited. 
During my residence, I went into this part of the 
town with an English seaman, formerly of the 
wrecked brig Surprise, and was immediately 
taken before an Alcayd, or officer, and compel- 
led to apologize for this intrusion. Upon learn- 
ing that I was from Wadinoon, I was afterwards 
permitted to visit the Jews. They have a num- 
ber of synagogues, as places of worship. Upon 
Friday afternoon, at six o'clock, their Sabbath 
commences, and ends at the same time upon 
Saturday afternoon. During this time, they nei- 
ther light a candle or lamp, make a fire, cook, 
nor touch their hands to any laborious service. 
Their food is previously cooked. I never saw 
them worship in their synagogues, which I ex- 
ceedingly regret. The Jews are permitted to 
have open shops in every part of the town, until 
eight o'clock, P. M. after which time every Jew, 
excepting those at Mr. Wiltshire's and a few 



BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 253 

others, were enclosed within the walls of their 
town, until day-light the next morning. They 
are compelled to wear black slippers and caps, 
and not allowed to dress their heads in red, or 
feet in yellow. 

The general market is situated in the main 
town. It is well supplied with beef, mutton, 
fowls, bread, and almost every variety of vege- 
tables. The grain market is inclosed on a square 
through which a narrow street passes, Upon 
the borders of this square, are great numbers of 
very small shops owned by Moors and Jews, sup- 
plied with every article which fancy would ad 
mire, convenience desire, or necessity crave. 

There are a number of manufactories for 
haicks or blankets. The loom and shuttle ap- 
peared to be similar to our domestic ones. By 
a decree, the blankets here manufactured are 
prohibited from exportation, and are reserved 
for transportation into the deserts. These are 
made wholly of wool. There are also manufac- 
tories for iron tools, of every necessary kind; and 
although they do not look like those of Sheffield 
and Birmingham ware, many of them are well 
made. The Jews manufacture snuff by pulveri- 
zing tobacco in large mortars. The grain is 
manufactured into flour by horses. A sweep 
is attached to the main wheel of the mill, which 
being connected with a number of cog-wheels, 
gives the stone a velocity nearly equal to some 
of our mill-stones carried by water. 

The streets of this town are straight, although 
short, intersecting each other, generally, at right 
angles. In the main town, are streets running 

Y 



2. f i4 ROBBINS' JOURxNAL. 

through the whole of it. They are narrow, and 
over some of them in the fortress section, an arch 
extends from one side of the street to the other. 
The houses are built of stone and lime, general- 
ly of one, although some are two and three sto- 
ries high. The roofs are mostly flat. The 
streets have a handsome appearance in passing 
them, the houses being generally plaistered or 
whitewashed. 

The public buildings are those devoted to pi- 
ous uses, having a steeple, or tower running to a 
considerable height, and built square to the top. 
From the top, projects a crane, upon which is 
hung a white flag to summon the people togeth- 
er. In addition to this notice, a Moor ascends 
to the top, and with a loud voice, exhorts the in- 
habitants to come and worship, by exclaiming — 
" Allah Hu / n * Upon this notice, many of the 
people are seen to leave their temporal concerns, 
and repair to their temple to attend to devotion- 
al exercises. This is repeated four times a day 
at regular seasons. It is singular, that the mode 
of worship, where I witnessed it here, was pre- 
cisely the same as I had, thousands of times, no- 
ticed it upon the Zahara desert, at Wadinoon, 
and in various other parts of Africa. If the Ma- 
hommedans can claim no other merit, they are 
at least entitled to the character of consistency 
and uniformity in their religious ceremonies. 

The people of Mogadore appeared to be mild, 
peaceable, and affable in their manners. Being 
a Christian, it was not safe for me to venture to 
go often abroad, around the town, for fear of in- 

* See Lord Byron's Giaour — line 734. 



ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 255 

suits or injury ; and I kept generally at Mr. Will- 
shire's; although, in the day-time, I frequently 
walked about the place. I never saw nor heard 
the least disturbance ; w itnessed no mobs or ri- 
ots, and the town appeared to be a place where 
the operation of a good police was known and 
obeyed. 

This town, in its greatest length, must be three 
quarters of a mile, and in breadth, over half a 
mile. It is very compactly built, and from the 
best accounts I could obtain, has within it, of 
different nations, thirty thousand inhabitants. Of 
this population, the principal part are Moors; 
the Jews are estimated at about six thousand, 
and the Christians, while I was there, could not 
have exceeded fifty. The town is supplied with 
water from the river running two miles to the 
southward of it. It is transported in kegs load- 
ed upon asses ; and the beach from the town to 
the river is constantly lined with these animals 
passing from and to the town. An island is situ- 
ated about two miles from the shore, and forms 
the harbor. Upon it is a strong fortification ; 
and foreigners are not permitted to land upon it. 

The entry into the harbor is upon the north of 
this island through a narrow rocky channel. In 
the winter, the harbor is rendered insecure from 
the strong southwest wind blowing directly into 
it, and the bottom being sandy, the anchorage is 
bad. From information derived from Mr. Will- 
shire, I learned that many shipwrecks have here 
happened. The wreck of an English brig was 
lying there while I was in the place. Capt. Wm. 
Rogers of Cape Ann, with whom I returned to 



256 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 

America, gave me a most interesting account oJ 
the loss of a part of his crew in this harbor, I 
think in the winter of 1815. The limits of this 
work preclude the insertion of the melancholy 
narrative, any farther than to say, that his schoo- 
ner parted one of her cables — that he and two ot 
his crew went on board an English vessel to re- 
place it; and while absent, the remaining crew 
abandoned the schooner, entered the boat, and 
were dashed into eternity upon the shore. The 
schooner was saved, and the captain obtained a 
crew of Moors and Jews to navigate her to Bos- 
ton. I afterwards saw and conversed with a Jew 
who was one of the crew, at Mogadore. Mr. Will 
shire informed me that a few years since, a Spa 
nish vessel entered this harbor with a large crew, 
without a cargo ; and not being permitted to 
trade from that circumstance, having nothing 
but specie, she sailed down the coast to fish, be- 
tween Cape Non and Santa Cruz, was taken by 
surprise by the natives, and her whole crew 
massacred. 

I might enrich this journal with many more in- 
teresting communications from this intelligent 
gentleman, but they must be omitted. I resided 
with him from the 11th to the 22d March, and 
shall for ever reckon the days spent under his 
hospitable roof, as the most pleasing of my life. 
Every thing within the compass of human exer- 
tion was done to render my stay delightful. He 
had snatched me and my companions from the 
most forlorn and miserable slavery, placed me 
in a temporal paradise, and pointed the way to 
my country and my friends. I cannot imagine 



ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 257 

a situation upon earth, all things considered, 
more enviable than the one he fills. I forgot the 
splendor of his mansion, and the magnificence 
that surrounded him, in the more brilliant traits 
of his mind. A good description of his dwelling 
would be the history of architecture. Upon the 
15th, he informed me that he had received a let- 
ter from the Hon. James Simpson, American Con- 
sul General at Tangier, relative to our passage 
home, requesting him, as soon as we were suffi- 
ciently recruited for the journey, to send us to 
Tangier, if no passage to America could be 
found at Mogadore. He assured us that in a few 
days every thing should be in readiness for the 
journey-, that he would despatch an alcayd) or an 
Emperor's soldier, to guard us on the way, and 
that he had obtained a passport from the Empe- 
ror for this purpose. 

CHAP. XXIV. 

The author, Davis, and Brawn leave Mogadore for Tangier — 
the country— Azamor — river Ommirabih — Douar of tents — 
fearful apprehensions — equestrian exercise — escape by night 
— aqueduct — arrival at Rabat. 

UPON the 22d, the alcayd and two muleteers 
presented themselves to Mr.Willshire, with three 
large mules ; one each, for Brown, Davis, and 
myself. The alcayd was elegantly armed and 
mounted upon a horse, and the muleteers were 
to go on foot. We were well supplied with pro- 
visions for five days, which would carry us to 
the town of dzamor. We also had a sufficient 
supply of money for our expenses. We now took 



258 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 

an affectionate leave of Mr. Willshire, received 
his blessing and good wishes, and started upon 
our journey. We passed the south gate at 8, 
A. M. passed the east battery, and directed our 
course toward Tangier. We kept the coast foi 
some distance, and were joined by another al- 
cayd, with a servant bound to Fez. He contin- 
ued with us for ten days, and added much to the 
pleasure of our journey. We travelled mode- 
rately, and the muleteers kept up on foot. The 
country through which we passed upon the first 
day was rather barren and thinly inhabited. We 
stopped for the night at sun an hour high, and 
lodged under bushes ; the cattle being fettered. 
There were a few inhabitants near us, who 
brought us fowls, eggs, and keskoosoo, and refu- 
sed any compensation for them. Before day- 
light, upon the 23d, we were again mounted and 
on our journey. The alcayd who conducted 
me was the same one, he told me, who was the 
guide of Capt. Riley, and pointed to a path which 
he then travelled ; but now chose one that went 
farther into the country. We travelled over land 
very level, highly cultivated, loaded with grain, 
and often presenting douars of pitched tents. 
Through the 24th, the country had the same 
appearance, and at night we lodged in the cen- 
tre of a large collection of tents. Wherever a 
douar of tents is met with, one is found devoted 
to pious uses, called a zham, facing to the east. 
The traveller always goes there to worship and 
to lodge; and is always there treated with kind- 
ness and respect. The alcayd who guided and 
guarded us, and the one who joined us, would 



BOBBINS' JOURNAL 259 
be regarded, in every portion of the globe, as 
first rate men. They were dignified in their 
manners, affable in their deportment, and affec- 
tionate in their treatment. No pains were spa- 
red to make us comfortable, and our journey 
pleasant. We were not, however, permitted to 
lodge in the tents, devoted to the worship of 
Mahomet, being nothing but Christians ou rselves. 
The next day (25th) we came in sight of the At- 
lantic, and stopped to feed the cattle near a 
walled town, which the alcayd entered. After 
resting a short time, we prosecuted our journey, 
passing stone buildings standing singly, some 
villages, a considerable river, the country 
abounding with Argan trees, and at 10, P. M. 
put up near a walled town, the gates of which 
were closed. The inhabitants came out and 
sold us fowls and eggs, and we slept without the 
mud walls, in the blankets furnished us by Mr. 
Willshire. Upon the 26th, we passed a country 
more hilly, and, at 2, P. M. reached the town ot 
Azamor, having passed a great number of saint- 
houses. We always had to dismount and pass 
them on foot, while our devotional guard offer- 
ed up worship to that prophet, whose followers 
never seem to forget his supposed divinity, or 
omit to adore him. The town is situated upon 
the west side of the river Ommirabih, upon ele- 
vated ground. The town in shape nearly re- 
sembles a right angled triangle. The river forms 
the base, the ocean the side, and the country the 
hypothenuse. It is chiefly built of stone, and 
completely walled with a very high plaistered 
stone wall. Around its southeast corner or for 



260 ROBBINS' JOURNAL, 

tress, it is ditched ; and from the ditch to the 
battery, is thrown up a body of earth and stone, 
ascending as steep as the roof of a house. The 
battery, rising thirty feet above the top of this 
ascent, would seem to render it impregnable. 
Upon the battery are mounted forty or fifty iron 
and brass pieces of cannon. The town has the 
appearance of antiquity. In its suburbs, which 
we passed, are various manufactories of leather, 
pottery, &c. 

We here replenished our stock of provisions, 
and upon the morning of the 27th, as soon as the 
gates were opened, we again started upon our 
journey, and passed the river Ommirabih in 
a ferry boat. We saw great numbers of fishing 
boats, and upon examining the fish taken, I found 
them to be shad ; precisely like those caught in 
Connecticut river, and they made me think of 
that beautiful stream, upon the banks of which 1 
was born. This river must be thirty-five rods in 
width. It is a clear, handsome stream, and the 
largest I had passed in Africa, although upon the 
desert of Zahara I had passed many dry beds of 
rivers much wider. The country here was not 
very fertile, but in the course of the day we pass 
ed many douars of tents, and at night put up at 
a large one situated two miles out of our regular 
course. A douar of tents consists of different 
numbers and arranged in different manners — 
some in a square, some in a triangle, and the one 
we reached this night was in a perfect circle, 
pitched within ten feet of each other. As I ap- 
proached with Brown and Davis on foot, we were 
assailed by hundreds of dogs, and it was with the 



ROBBINS' JOURKaj^. 26] 

greatest difficulty we could detend ourselves from 
them with heavy clubs. We entered the douar 
before night, and a small tent was pitched for the 
two alcayds, for us, two Moors who had joined 
us at Azamor and the muleteers, in the centre of 
the circle. The two alcayds were in the tent, 
the muleteers had gone to water the mules, and 
the rest of us were reposing around the tent. It 
was immediately surrounded by natives led by 
curiosity to see Christians, who inquired of the 
alcayds where we were from and where bound. 
Upon being informed that we were from the De- 
sert, and bound to the Sidi or Emperor, and dis- 
covering us to be Americans or Englishmen, they 
immediately entered into conversation among 
themselves, which the alcayd from Fez learned 
to be a menace toward us. They remembered 
the lesson not long before taught the Algerines 
by Commodore Decatur and Lord Exmouth, and 
undoubtedly would seek revenge in any way. 
The alcayd from Fez, with fury mingled with 
dignity, said that the Emperor had sent for us, 
and demanded of them what they meant by their 
plots? They explained by denying any plottings, 
and soon retired. I never saw the authority of 
an individual so suddenly operate upon a multi- 
tude. Very soon we saw twenty or thirty arm- 
ed horsemen approaching us with great speed. 
They halted near our tent. I expected my jour- 
nev to Tangier and for life was now to be end- 
ed. Each Moor had a musket, and they were 
but a rod or two from the tent. The alcayds re- 
mained perfectly composed, and my fears were 
dismissed, when T saw these inimitable horse- 



262 R0BB1NS* JOURNAL. 

men begin their Moorish sports. They exclaim, 
hah! hall! hah! — drop the rein upon the horses' 
neck — incline the body far forward — put the 
horse into full speed, and aiming at some distant 
object, fire their muskets, and with one hand 
give it a sudden turn around the head. The 
horse, being perfectly trained, comes to a halt 
as soon as the gun is fired. It was in my view the 
most elegant display of the equestrian art I ever 
witnessed. The feats of the circus are but pu- 
erile triflings in comparison with it. For an hour 
I witnessed this amusement It called to mind 
the tournaments in the age of chivalry. After 
they retired, we were refreshed ; and when si- 
lence reigned through the whole circle of tents, 
at least a mile in circumference, and darkness 
had shrouded the earth with her sable mantle, 
we cautiously began to leave a place where de- 
struction might, in the twinkling of an eye, have 
awaited us ; and where the alcayds, ourselves, 
and the muleteers, might have sunk into the 
grave, leaving the Emperor in ignorance of the 
fate of his officers, and our friends of our desti- 
ny. For five hours we sought in vain for the 
path we took that lead us to this douar, and up- 
on finding it, we travelled with as great speed 
as possible, taking the muleteers behind us. 
This was the dictate of compassion, but as often 
as we did it, our alcayd would remonstrate 
against it; and I had occasion myself to regret 
it ; for the old muleteer belonging to me, while 
I was relieving him from the fatigue of running, 
came very nigh relieving my pockets of all the 
money belonging to Brown, Davis, and myself. 



ROBBINS* JOURXSaju. 263 
Through the 28th, we travelled at no great 
distance from the ocean, and at 10, A. 3VL passed 
the town of Dartbeda situated upon it. It appear- 
ed of considerable size, and was walled; but we 
did not enter it. At meridian, we passed the 
town of Afidal/ah. Toward night, w r e passed a 
well built stone bridge, arched, and railed with 
stone. Continuing on, w r e forded a small stream, 
and came to a forest of Argan trees. We lodg- 
ed upon the outside of the walls of a town of 
some size. It was dark when we reached, and 
dark when we left it ; and unless we possessed 
those " optics keen, to see vjhat is not to be seen" w r e 
could not describe it. 

Upon the 29th. continuing near the ocean, we 
had a distant view of the town of Rabat ; the 
country being remarkably level, fertile, and well 
cultivated. The inhabitants all lived in tents 
here, and the fields abounded with immense 
droves of horned cattle. Large numbers of fat- 
tened oxen were driving tow r ard Rabat. It was 
a most delightful day's journey, and the animal 
and vegetable productions of the country indica- 
ted the highest enjoyment. We reached the 
aqueduct, which conducts water into the town, 
at about a mile's distance from the walls of it. 
This aqueduct is so constructed that, for the 
most of the way, the w r ater is carried above the 
ground, in a kind of flume. The fountain that 
supplies it is eight miles from the town ; and at 
that place is an high tower. When we came to 
the aqueduct, we stopped, and the alcayds en- 
tered the town, having with them a letter from 
Mr. Willshire to Mr. Abouderham, English Vice 



264 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 

Consul at Rabat. The mules, having fed upon 
grass, we mounted them, and entered the town 
ourselves, and were immediately introduced to 
the consul by our alcayd. He informed us, that 
Mr. Willshire had requested him to furnish us 
with every thing that we wanted to prosecute 
our journey. I informed him that we were suf- 
ficiently supplied with money, but wished, in that 
town, to replenish our stock of provisions, which 
were now nearly exhausted. Brown, Davis, and 
I dined at his house, but he said, as it was the 
Jewish Sabbath, no business could that day be 
transacted. I understood he was a Jew himself, 
but he was dressed in Christian habit. After 
partaking of refreshments we were conducted, 
by our alcayd, to a public house, where a room 
was provided for our accommodation. This was 
the first building that might be called a public 
house, that I had seen in Africa. This being a 
place of great business, the house having many 
apartments, was resorted to by travellers from 
Fez, Morocco, and all the adjoining country. 

CHAP. XXV. 

Rabat, description of it — the harbor— shad — Mr. Abouderham— 
Jewish feast — Sallee—a Lake — river Saboo — scenery — Rock oj 
Gibraltar, arid Mount Atlas — arrival at Tangier —reflections 
-—the Hon. James Simpson — Mount Washington, in Africa — 
passage to Gibraltar — Mr. Henry, consul — Mr. Simpson's 
letter. 

AFTER securing our baggage in our apart- 
ment, I went out to examine the town. It has 
one principal street running parallel with the 
shore of the river Beregreb, whicli bounds it up- 



ROBBING JOURNAL. 265 

on the north. Upon the west, it is bounded by 
the Atlantic, and upon the south and east it is 
bounded by an outer wall which is built about 
half a mile from the inner wall, upon which can- 
non are mounted. Between these two walls are 
very fine gardens, laid out with much taste, 
abounding with fig, orange, lemon, and many- 
other fruit trees. Each garden had a well near 
it, from which water was drawn by horses, and 
wheel machinery; but as I could not examine 
them, I will not attempt a particular description. 
It is strongly fortified next to the sea. In this 
town, were a number of zhams, or mosques for re- 
ligious worship. The buildings are compactly 
and well built of stone; and, as is. almost uni- 
versally the case through the whole country, 
plaistered or whitewashed, having a neat an" 
handsome appearance. There are a great nun? 
ber of narrow streets cr alleys leading into tne 
principal street upon the river, some of whicu 
are long and handsomely built. The street up- 
on the river, in which is the great market, wa^ 
thronged by people of almost every description. 
I there saw Jews, Turks, Europeans, Greeks. 
Arabs, Shilluhs, and people from all the Barba- 
ry states ; each using his native tongue, each 
dressed in the mode of his country, and each 
showing their peculiar manners. 

The Jews in this place, as at Mogadore, have 
a section of the town exclusively occupied by 
them. The Moors constitute the principal pop- 
ulation : but the number of inhabitants 1 did not 
learn, and cannot estimate any otherwise than 
by saying, that the town is more compactly built 



266 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 

than Mogadore, and covers, I should judge, 
nearly double the quantity of ground. 

The river admits vessels of burthen, and I 
there saw a Spanish, a French, and a Portuguese 
vessel, and a small Moorish frigate lying at an- 
chor. From its appearance to me, it was a place 
of the greatest trade upon the western coast o* 
Africa, and altogether the best and safest harbor, 
ft is entered through a narrow channel, at the 
mouth of the river, which then widens into a 
large bay. A sand bar lies off the mouth of the 
river, which may be passed with vessels drawing 
eight feet of water, as such were loading wnen 
[ was there ; and as the tide rises eight or Ten 
feet, vessels of much larger burthen may men 
pass in and out. I continued rambling about 
place until the hour of refreshment and rest. 

Upon the 30tn we remained in this town, mm 
I was constantly upon the foot, examining ev^ y 
natural and artificial curiosity that fell within my 
observation. There were various manufactory 
of blankets, cottons, silks, woollen cloths, lea- 
ther, earthen- ware and some few of hard-ware, 
especially of muskets, scimitars, and cutlasses. 

I saw immense quantities of fehad caught in the 
same manner as they are taken in the rivers m 
New England. They were of excellent flavor, 
and of the same size and appearance of those 
here caught. 

Mr. Abouderham paid for our apartments, and 
supplied us gratuitously with a quantity of excel- 
lent bread. Having ourselves procured the othe^ 
necessary provisions for four or five days, we left 
this place upon the morning of the 31st, having 



ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 267 

been treated with the greatest politeness and 
hosoitality by the Consul, of whom we now took 
leave, and passed the river in a ferry boat, to 
the town of Sallee, lying upon the opposite side 
of the river, and about a mile from its banks. I 
had iearned at Rabat, that a Jewish feast was 
to be holden this day in that place, and in this. 
Great numbers of bullocks were slain the last 
day I remained in Rabat, and almost the first 
striking object that attracted my attention in this 
place, w as a great number of Jews, richly dress- 
ed, marching in procession, barefooted, each ha- 
ving the Old Testament before him, and each 
reading aloud. We remained spectators, until 
the whole passed, and saw the street strewed 
with flowers. We then passed directly through 
the town; which is a place of considerable size, 
having a number of mosques, and is strongly 
walled and fortified by numerous pieces of can- 
non. In the vicinity were beautiful gardens fill- 
ed with the fruits and vegetables common to 
this part of the country. It also produced cot- 
ton, and I saw numbers engaged in manufactur- 
ing that article. The people, judging of them 
from their deportment toward us, retain the fe- 
rocious manners of the ancient inhabitants, who 
were a sw arm of pirates. They menaced us as 
we passed, denouncing us as Christian dogs ; 
and had it not been for the presence and autho- 
rity of our alcayd, the other having left us at 
Rabat, bound to Fez, we should undoubtedly 
have found our passage impracticable, and have 
been in danger of our lives. 

We passed out through the north gate, and at 



268 BOBBINS' JOURNAL, 

a mile's distance, came to a broad high wall, ha- 
ving; three arched gateways as passages through 
it. This wall extends as much as three miles; 
upon the top of which is an aqueduct, from 
which the water descends into an artificial wa- 
tering place, near the arches, and supplies the 
town of Sallee. It has the appearance of great 
strength and antiquity. The country, as we pro- 
ceeded on, was generally level and very fertile. 
Toward n<£(5n we passed near the borders of a 
lake of fresh water, about two miles in length, 
and an half mile in breadth ; and by the middle 
of the afternoon, we were ferried over a river of 
a mile in width. I learned the name of this river 
to be Midiah, and saw near its mouth the ruins 
of an ancient fortified town, with fortifications 
built in the Portuguese manner. This town is 
called Mamora ; but we did not enter it. The 
ferryman stole my only pair of shoes, which were 
supplied by another pair obtained from the a* 
cayd. We soon cane to a douar, and tarried 
there through the night. 

Upon the first of April, we continued to travej 
through a cquntry somewhat hilly, having douars 
of tents, droves of cattle, and numerous inhabi- 
tants. At 9 A. M. we reached the end of a large 
lake, having a number of small islands, upon 
which I discovered saint-houses erected. It a- 
bounded with ducks, and a great number of 
small boats, or rather rafts, filled with the natives, 
were hunting them. Through the whole day we 
travelled upon the western borders of this lake, 
and at night put up within a few rods of its shore. 
We were refreshed with fowls and eggs procu- 



BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 269 

red for a trifling sum ; indeed, for the whole pas- 
sage, provisions were obtained at the cheapest 
rate, and of excellent quality. The next morn- 
ing we crossed the north end of this lake, and 
had a distant view of the town of Laraiche, leav- 
ing it upon our left, and bearing to the eastward 
toward a large town, situated upon the banks of 
the river Saboo. We reached this river at night, 
having passed by many villages with thatched 
roof cottages. We lodged upon the south banks 
of the river, upon which were many of the finest 
gardens that can be imagined. They abounded 
with every tree, shrub, and vegetable calculated 
to charm the eye, and gratify the appetite. I 
never before, nor since, beheld a scene so per- 
fectly enchanting. It reminded the traveller of 
the finest descriptions of romance, and made him 
think of the Elysian Fields. 

Early in the morning of the 3d, we reached 
the high banks of the Saboo, which was a narrow 
stream, and forded it. The passage from the 
river to the town had that kind of beauty which 
renders the power of description feeble. The 
town was almost concealed from the eye of the 
traveller by labyrinths composed of almost eve- 
ry species of the most beautiful fruit trees. The 
town was, to appearance, of very great extent. 
The houses w hich I saw were low ; very thickly 
built, and thatched with coarse grass. I was 
struck with the great number of mosques. The 
one I passed was about ten feet square at the 
base, diminishing but very little to the top, and 
was at least sixty feet in height. In passing the 
whole town, I counted twenty-eight of these 

Z2 



270 ROBBINS' JOURNAL, 

mosques. I regretted exceedingly that I could 
not have entered the town, which, from its ex- 
tent, and every appearance, induced me to con- 
clude that it contained the greatest population 
of any town I had seen in the country. I noticed 
three funeral processions in the suburbs. The 
name of this place, as I learned, is Dar-el Hama- 
ra. We stopped upon the borders of the place, 
until provisions were obtained, and then pro- 
ceeded upon our journey some distance from 
the sea, through a clay country of hills and val- 
lies, abounding with small streams of water, and 
at night lodged at a douar. 

Upon the fourth, we passed over a very higo 
mountain, covered with wood and abounding 
with wild boars, which the natives called helloof. 
From this place I had a view of the Rock of Gib- 
raltar to the northward, and of Mount Mas to the 
eastward. There were vast numbers of cork- 
wood trees, with rough bark three or four inch- 
es thick, from which the cork is manufactured. 
Many of them were entirely stripped of their 
bark. They resemble the oak of our country. 
Upon descending the mountain, we reached an 
extensive level country filled with tents and 
thatched huts as far as the eye could reach. We 
lodged at a small stone church devoted to the 
use of travellers and religious worship. 

Upon the 5th day of April, at about 10, A. M. 
we reached the town of Tangier, and were con- 
ducted to the house of the Hon. James Simpson, 
American consul general at that place. He 
received us with dignified affability, welcomed 
us to his house, and rejoiced at the prospect w r e 



BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 271 
noM- had of a speedy return to our country 
Brown. Davis, and I were conducted to a board- 
ing house, and were requested to visit him as 
often as possible during our stay. The town ot 
Tangier is too well known to need from me a 
description, indeed I little thought of noticing 
any surrounding object. I was so completely en- 
grossed with the delightful and exhilarating 
thought of leaving a country in which I had gone 
through almost all the variety of untried being." 
Upon the 6th, being Sunday, we remained at 
our quarters most of the day: we however saw 
many Spaniards resorting to the Roman Catho- 
lic churches to attend divine service. For al- 
most two years I had dragged out a miserable 
existence among the followers of Mahomet, and 
this was the first time, for that period, excepting 
at Mr. Willshire's, that I had observed men of- 
fering adoration to the Saviour of the World. A 
flood of ideas rushed into my mind. I was in 
sight of the bay of Gibraltar, from which we 
sailed in the Commerce. The scenes through 
which my shipmates and I had passed since that 
time hurried through my memory. I cast my 
eve toward my beloved country, and reflected, 
with delight, that some of them w r ere enjoying 
its blessings. I also, in imagination, retraced 
the desert of Zahara, and the .coast of Africa, 
and remembered with excruciating anguish, that 
Mr. Williams, Barrett, Hogan, Antonio, and 
Dick, were either enduring the sufferings from 
which I had escaped, or were relieved from them 
by a miserable death. The only consolation I 
found from this distressing consideration w r as, 



272 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 

that the same Merciful Being, who had snatch- 
ed me from the accumulated horrors that had 
long surrounded me, might also save them. 

Upon Monday morning, (7th,) Mr. Simpson 
sent a messenger, requesting us to visit his 
splendid gardens two miles from town. We im« 
mediately repaired thither. They were situa- 
ted upon the top of an elevated hill which he, in 
veneration for the imperishable honor of his 
great compatriot in the revolutionary war, has 
dignified with the name of Mount Washington. 
Mr. Simpson is a venerable old man, of seventy 
years ; and, from his treatment to us, and other 
Americans, shews that he has not forgotten his 
attachment to his unfortunate countrymen in the 
exalted station he fills, and the splendor that 
surrounds him. 

From these delightful gardens Tangier pre- 
sents a handsome appearance. The houses 
are low in general, but the Consular residences 
are very magnificent. In this place are Consuls 
from America, France, Great Britain, Sweden, 
Denmark, Holland, Spain, and Portugal. 

Mr. Simpson addressed a letter to Mr. B. Hen- 
ry, American Consul at Gibraltar, and delivered 
it to a Spanish captain upon the 8th. Upon that 
day, at 4, P. M. we entered on board a small 
Spanish vessel, and left the continent of Africa. 
We arrived at Gibraltar early the next morning, 
the passage being about thirty miles. Upon the 
9th of April, 1817, the health officer came on 
board, and immediately gave us liberty to land 
at the port. We were immediately conducted 
to the residence Mr Henry. Upon reading 



ROBBINS* JOURNAL. 273 

the letter of Mr. Simpson, he gave us a small sum 
of money to refresh ourselves with, for which he 
required a receipt. He ordered us to appear 
before him at 4, P. M. which we did. He then 
told us that it was too expensive for us to live on 
shore, and that we must go on board the U. S. 
brig Spark, then lying at Gibraltar, until we 
could get a passage to America, adding, that she 
was in want of hands, and that by entering on 
board, we might obtain clothing from our ad- 
vance pay. As much as we needed clothing, 
our weakness was such as totally incapacitated 
us from doing duty on board a public vessel, and 
in that way to procure them. We little expect- 
ed to be received by an American consul, and 
treated in this manner, after the tender treat- 
ment we had met with from an alcayd of Moroc- 
co, Mr. Wiltshire, and Mr. Simpson. By good 
fortune, without the aid of Mr. Henry, we fell in 
with Capt. Stanwood, of the ship Hero, bound to 
Boston, on board of which Brown and I entered. 
We went ashore frequently, and applied to Mr. 
Henry for clothing. He told us he thought we 
had clothing sufficient, and shewed the most per- 
fect indifference to our applications. Knowing 
that we were in an unfit situation to commence 
a voyage to America, and being totally destitute 
of resources ourselves, I ventured to write to 
Consul Simpson, at Tangier, entreating his as- 
sistance. As soon as a return could be had, I 
received from that benevolent gentleman the fol- 
lowing answer : 

Tangier, 17th April, 1817. 
Sir — Yesterday I received your letter of the 



274 BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 

14th inst. and hope you may, with your two com- 
panions, be at last accommodated with a passage 
in the ship Hero; that you may all speedily be re- 
stored to your country and families. — Let Davis 
inform the relations of George Hall, that the Spa- 
nish consul here has promised me, the Spaniard^ 
who is the cause of his not having obtained hio 
freedom with them (Brown and Davis) shall be 
forthwith redeemed. 

They may rely on Hall being freed at some 
time, should Mr. Willshire not be able to effect 
it before, by reason of the Arab persisting in his 
determination not to release the one without the 
other. I have written Mr. Henry on the subject 
of your being provided (the three) with such 
clothing as may be requested ; and I have- no 
doubt but that gentleman will do whatever may 
be found necessary on the occasion. 

I wish you well, and am, 

Sir, your obedient servant, 
JAMES SIMPSON 

P. S. 1st — We have not had any intelligence 
from Mogadore since you left it. 
Mr. Archibald Robbins. 

P. S. 2d — 18th April. Advice has been re- 
ceived of Hall's redemption being agreed, and 
the ransom sent dowa J. S. 

The above letter I found at Mr. Henry's office. 
The letter of the American Consul general to 
him had an effect, which the entreaties of forlorn 
and destitute Americans, just escaped from Ish- 



BOBBINS' JOURiXAL. 276 

maelitish slavery, could not produce ; and he 
immediately furnished necessary clothing to 
Brown and myself, Davis having previously left 
the Hero. 

Upon the 30th April, Captain Stanwood sail- 
ed from Gibraltar, and, after a pleasant passage, 
we arrived in Boston upon the 30th day of May, 
1817. 

When I landed at Boston, 1 entirely forgot the 
destitute situation I was in, from the reflection 
that I was in the American Republic. My heahh 
and strength were restored, and I was enabled 
to work my passage on board the schooner 
Pearl, Capt. Ingraham, to Saybrook. From 
thence to Wethersfield I travelled on foot, where 
I was received by my connections and former 
companions with a cordiality which convinced 
me that I was still esteemed ; and that the scenes 
of degradation, slavery, and misery through 
which I had passed, instead of diminishing^ had 
augmented their attachment. 



THE END 




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